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There should be some older threads on here, but I am pretty sure that you have no choice but to cut a hole in the deck to get to the starboard hose. Not sure about the port.

Sounds like VST filters except both motors at once would be highly unlikely. The good news is that the VST filters are routine maintenance on the HPDI's so you have nothing to lose by changing them out and it may resolve your problem. Good luck.

I have always used the black.

I have been using Inerlux trilux 33 antifouling aerosol for the past 20 years with good results. They also make the grey primer you will need.

Grady used to provide an option for the cabin models (got it on my Sailfish) which was a 6 rod, fold out holder. It is mounted on the port side wall as you come down the stairs. I am almost positive they were available for the Gulfstream as well. They may still be available via Grady/local GW...

My 2000 272 came with 3 dual purpose group 24's. I still use that same setup. Typically replace them every 5 years whether they need it or not.

Just curious where you are fishing that you feel you need a green stick? Seems to me that it might be a little much for a boat that size, especially when you consider the need for the electric motor/reel. I agree that a center rigger might be an option for you. I mounted a 15 footer on my...

I agree with Dennis. No need for a dedicated battery, just keep the motors running when using the windlass.

If you are looking to trailer to store periodically, wouldn't it be more cost effective to pay a few hundred a trip for a transport? Just a thought.

You might want to consider a mooring cover. It would be just as effective and a lot cheaper if I understand what you are looking for. I have one for my Sailfish. It attaches to the windshield and covers the helm area all the way back to the cockpit. I would guess that it was also made by A&J.

I have owned my 272 powered by twin 200 HPDI's since new in 2000. I have around 1,100 hours on them. They have been bullet proof. Maintenance, especially the fuel and filtration system, is critical in my opinion. The motors are much quieter than the OX 66's and only a few decibels louder than...

I have owned my Sailfish for 19 years. It has always had water in the mid-ship bilge. I spent a lot of time during my first season trying to get to the bottom of where it was coming from. After determining it was fresh water and sponging up what the pump didn't get, I added food coloring to my...

Some additional food for thought for those who don't use their radar at all times........ One of the things that should be mentioned with using radar is that there is a heightened responsibility when radar is aboard.The skipper should be familiar with requirements to use the radar in a manner...

I have a pair of 2000 200 HPDIs with about 1,200 hours. Even if they sit for weeks they fire right up and go to idle. Given what you are describing, something is obviously not right. If nobody here can offer any insight, you might want to post on the Hull Truth......just don't tell them that the...

It is a Coast Guard reg. If you have radar it must be on at all times when the vessel is underway. Having said that, My radar is always on. When at drift offshore, I usually switch to stand-by.

Went to Napa and ordered the whole blade assembly. Had the parts in 2 hours. Now installed and a perfect fit. The only "issue" was they only came in black. Look pretty good actually. The Napa part number is 6-2065, which is a heavy duty 20" blade. The price was $11.00 ea. One suggestion is use...

Thanks for the feedback. I looked at the Anco 52-20, but can't get a clear picture that shows how it is mounted. I need to be able to nut and bolt mount through the side of the blade and the only picture I could get looked like it mounted through the top of the blade. I will bring one to Napa...

Did a search and only came up with two posts from 2011 and 2012. Was hoping someone may have some more current input. I need to get new blades and was curious where people are getting their replacements these days. I would also appreciate any feedback on how to remove the old blades. It looks...

They are pretty easy to take apart. I use a bottle opener to unscrew the spray head. Fits perfectly. When the spray head is off you will see a brass nut. Unscrew the nut and you will be able to remove the rest of the assembly. Pay attention to how the spring is seated. Once apart, just clean...

If it is not the screen then disconnect the output side, turn the pump on and see if you get water.