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http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-m ... rain.shtml

Yeah, you're gonna need to take some foam out anyway to put you're perimeter wood support for the deck....with everything open like that, the foam should come out easy and then you'll see the entire grid top to bottom. You will need to grind the lip you left over from underneath to properly...

The fuel tank switching valve is in-line between the tank pick up and the filters....follow the fuel line and you will find it.

Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom core is in!!! Yup...those guys know their stuff when it comes to rebuilding boats......his Aquasport tutorial is a great reference library. Rebuilding an entirely cut out transom is no easy feat.....this one should come out great with the way you're doing it.

Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom core is in!!! It came out great......smooth, no bubbles or creases.....it should last many years

I would use a wide piece of masking tape to draw out a cut line around the perimeter of the deck and around the fishboxes. I believe this line is close to where the non-skid ends. This will leave you with a "lip" on the horizontal surface to glue in a strip of wood underneath for...

Cost..... check Groco or Forespar

They'll be different on different models, but many drains are 1 inch....the bilge may be 3/4 for a 500 or 700 series or 1-1/8 for a 1100 or 2000....the water pick up should be 3/4 for that boat....I would wait until you disconnect them before ordering...you'll have plenty of time to order them...

Mike, can you get a fuller picture of one entire side of the deck perimeter....it will better show where to make the cut lines...need to get a clear shot of the area against the forward fishbox, the gunwale and the rear box/bulkhead.

NEM, not sure if the boat will float with 5 layers, but you'll be able to take on any wave coming at ya. :D And there's another problem using PE resin...you can't smoke around the solvents...need at least a pack a day to counter act the fiberglass dust in your lungs. :shock:

3/4 and 1708 is fine......3 layers of 12oz tape and 3 of 17oz will be good...you dont need to "cap" the stringers per se, just run the 17oz all the way up the sides and then resin over the top end grain......suspend the stringer with a piece of foam like you said, but before doing that, resin...

OK...so what are you going with? also, did you ask him about the amount or type of glass and resin to use? I found him very helpful and informative with my project...

Going back on the thread, page one shows the fishbox and toe rail...there should be a seam along the fishbox so cut the caulked seam......then cut across the toerail where the trim normally is...at least on my sailfish.....on center of the trim so you can add the backing strip and cover the...

Have no idea what this means....the port and starboard sides of the deck will have one side completely open, ie, where the tank is, and one end with a caulked seam, usually at the fishbox/helm......the opposite end will need to be cut at the transom bulkhead and the backside (opposite the fuel...

Why would you need to shave foam? Can you show a better pic of where the replacement is going and how you mean to connect it with the remaining existing stringer? Like everyone has said, we've all seen 3/4 inch in our boats....but that doesn't mean that what you have is necessarily wrong....the...

Poly resin is fine for new or virgin glass layup...the whole boat is built from it...but it permeates water, and is a poor combination when used with wood...thats why its rotted in the first place....anyone who builds wood composite or cold molded boats uses epoxy for that reason.....if you...

It is what it is then....I would make sure to use plenty of glass for strength...3 layers of 12oz tape for tabbing all the edges and corners and 3 layers of 1708 to cover the stringer and the tabs to the hull. You can calculate the total glass requirement that way.......if you're doing the...

1/2 inch or 3/4 inch? I believe 3/4 inch ply is more common for the stringers......depending on how far you are going you will need at least 10 yards of 50 inch wide 1708......and at least a 6 gallon kit of epoxy with slow hardener. Marine Epoxy is a good resin for the money. You will need at...

They used brass originally because it sealed a hole quickly and looked "dressed up" a bit.....since you're sealing the hole first with resin and glass, the drain tube itself becomes cosmetic.....whether its brass or pvc or pre-formed fiberglass, it makes no difference.....boat MFG's didnt take...

I have an older boat so the 2 don't have the same layout...but with any electronics that are non-user critical and produce heat....keep it away from moisture, ie down below vs at the helm, and in an area that helps dissipate heat, ie, open to air, not in a small nook without ventilation.