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Are you saying that the bilge pump is running constantly? Or, it actually sounds like you want to disable the auto function? If that's the case, why? But... just remove the fuse (or flip the breaker) for the auto side of the pump. If you remove the ground... won't you also be eliminating the...

So you have a "tambour door". It's hard to say what to disassemble on your boat without seeing pictures of the area :)

The snap-on helm cover that Seasick mentioned is going to be the easiest to put on and the least costly to buy/make. Note that if you find a company that can make it for you, you will still need to attach the snaps to the cover to match what's on your boat... and/or add snaps to the boat if...

What do you mean by "strange fitment"? From looking at the pics, it seems that knurled metal end should friction fit into the fitting by your finger. You may need to glue it in, at this point. For the cracked one... see if you can source a new one. BUT, in the meantime, put a couple zip ties...

Good-n-snug - not Superman tight. Never found a need for tape, myself. It doesn't take much to seal out to water - bronze is a soft metal. I once did it only hand tight and after about 5 hours in the water, less than a pint of water came out.

That all sounds good. FYI... the plug you remove to drain the bilge is called the "garboard" drain. The bilge pump exits simply through a "thru-hull" fitting.

Put it where you want it. There won't be a stringer... possibly a bulkhead... but if you run into that, great - extra meat to screw in to. And, yes, use Toggler's and don't worry about trying to find any subfloor bracing. You may/may not have any foam in the way - it's not sprayed into the...

The transom is at least 1-1/2" thick, if not more. But in reality, you could put 3" screws in there - they would just poke out the other side, is all - which is no big deal. BUT... Start by screwing them in by hand. If it starts to get really tough (which is a good thing), then back out and...

That's a good way to say it! N = X

The gas tank is in the middle of the boat (not on the starboard side). Correct? And you probably have a 192 Tournament? I am only making a guess here, but... I know you said you didn't see water in the bilge but it also seems you may not have looked very hard otherwise you woul have noticed...

Sure - but you can answer your own question by doing what I mentioned above. If you're thinking about tackling a windlass install, then I'm sure you can handle reading a spec sheet and using a ruler :) Although... I would hope someone could handle reading and doing simple measuring even...

Kinds sounds like it's not an answer, at all :) I mean, you're still at the same point, right? Having to fill slowly?

Aside from the massive job and cutting a hole in the structural part of your bow keel... Open up your anchor locker... look at about where the windlass would mount... is there room for it? How much "fall" will there be for the windlass you choose and what are the specs for that measurement of...

Post a picture of the existing latch - at this point, pretty much anything could be on there and we can't see it from where we are :) Or just google for things like boat hatch latch.

There's all kinds of cupholders out there - google for it and/or add more descriptors like "screw in" or "surface mount", for example. Do you have the real estate to just drill a hole for a drop-in cupholder? Can you drop a drop-in cupholder into your existing ones? If not, make a simple...

Yeah, I could absolutely see that happening. The motors are constantly turning and going into and out of fwd/reverse, sending propwash all over the place. I think you're just up against the nature of the beast and it is what it is. Use that old fashioned, metal thing that holds you in...

If the motor was tilted way up for the Winter, freeze/crack is certainly a possibility. Or, it could just be a freak thing.

Yes, I read what you did. Note that I am referring to the vent line, not the pickup line. What you did doesn't check/eliminate a clog in teh vent line... in fact, it points to the vent line as the possible culprit. How can you get "stuff" out if you can't get air in? I've personally used a...

Is the vent line or hull fitting clogged?

On a boat like a Grady, going above the motor is probably actually HIGHER than you would want it for a slalom skiing. 3' off the water is all you need/want for good turns. HOWEVER, we're starting to go down the road of "close enough as makes no difference unless you're competing". :) If...