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Still doesn't make sense, though - at least based on how you are writing things. Go look at your boat - there's no way for that to happen without water getting into the bilge. Water would have to be in the bilge FIRST in order to get the scuppers underwater. And once the scuppers were...

Yes, it will increase expense. The options will be limited to putting it on a truck or hoping to find a hot shotter with his own trailer that will work for your boat. Or... take a few weeks off work and splash it

Squidder, from your experience, does the hydrodipping withstand general bumps and scrapes without peeling off?

Try Uship dot com If it has a trailer, it will be less - look for a "hot shot" shipper

The impact damage doesn't necessarily concern me if... if it's been there a while and you had someone knowledgeable check it out. I believe you mentioned that you have already checked those boxes? Hours (or unknown hours) do not concern me. I would, if it was me, get compression numbers. I...

Yeah, I'm kinda struggling to think of something that looks like true wood and can be CUT and still look good. Anything "composite" that I can think of will have an obvious "fake" edge to it once cut - which will look like it belongs in one of Jeff Foxworthy's "You might be a redneck if..."...

That's not a bad idea to look around at others. I wouldn't give any thought to the "holding value" idea, though. At this price range, it is what it is and the price will likely still be the same in 5 years - regardless of brand. For example, I know of a solid '95 Trophy walkaround in my area...

How wre the bellows? That's a pretty good impact damage there. And it's obvoius someone attempted a half-butted cover-up repair. Note I said "cover up" as there really was no true "repair" done here. The question, of course, is whether or not those cracks are superficial and only in the...

Gotcha. I used Plasteak (or maybe it was Plasdeck) a long time ago on a windlass refit install (this boat never had one). I really like it because it had the best true look/feel to real wood that I could find. Nice stuff. However, it's thin and meant to be used more like flooring. It's also...

Sure! Can you clarify what you're asking regarding seal/exits bow? I'm not sure what that means. I/O's can definitely go a long, long time - easily a couple thousand hours if cared for... minus "crap happens" of course :)

If the ones you're looking at are halfway decent - go for it. I don't think you can do wrong at that price as long you don't need to spend many hours and $$ doing a floor/stringer rebuild. So check those out well. Since the OB has a solid transom, that helps to alleviate the ridiculous...

I think the answers to your question are largely based on what you want it to look like in the end. Meaning, it could be as simple as using PVC or HDPE, white plastic board.

I'm not following. The bilge can't be dry if the boat sank so far as to be almost at the gunwales. The scuppers aren't the problem. They are above the water line - essentially, water can come and go through that as it pleases with no issues. And... wait a minute... is this a joke? This was...

Definitely has to be a single engine?

Yup - very normal in pretty much all boats to do stuff like that. It's just the way it is. If you make one thing easy to get to... then something else will be hard to get to. And everyone complains about whatever they're working on NOW :)

If your ramp conditions allow it, power loading makes things much easier. Changing the bunk carpet out for plastic makes a world of difference, too.

Oh, well that makes it really easy! That's a LOT better access than most boats :) I think either way is fine - plenty of boats have identical tanks so it's not like it's "out of the norm". I guess the question is whether you like have that built-in "warning" that it's time to head back if...

In many Grady's, there's a bulkhead between the two tanks - creating one large and one small coffin for each tank. Is this not the case in your boat?

And... based on what you wrote, your primary focus should be to get the boat out of the water RIGHT NOW. Fixing the issue happens later.

The only thing holding it down is the screws and caulk. Since you removed the screws, it means you haven't cut through enough of the caulk, yet. And/or pull up harder or wedge it out. There are tons of posts here and on the net about hatch repair. Tons and tons. There's no difference in...