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Gotcha. I used Plasteak (or maybe it was Plasdeck) a long time ago on a windlass refit install (this boat never had one). I really like it because it had the best true look/feel to real wood that I could find. Nice stuff. However, it's thin and meant to be used more like flooring. It's also...

Sure! Can you clarify what you're asking regarding seal/exits bow? I'm not sure what that means. I/O's can definitely go a long, long time - easily a couple thousand hours if cared for... minus "crap happens" of course :)

If the ones you're looking at are halfway decent - go for it. I don't think you can do wrong at that price as long you don't need to spend many hours and $$ doing a floor/stringer rebuild. So check those out well. Since the OB has a solid transom, that helps to alleviate the ridiculous...

I think the answers to your question are largely based on what you want it to look like in the end. Meaning, it could be as simple as using PVC or HDPE, white plastic board.

I'm not following. The bilge can't be dry if the boat sank so far as to be almost at the gunwales. The scuppers aren't the problem. They are above the water line - essentially, water can come and go through that as it pleases with no issues. And... wait a minute... is this a joke? This was...

Definitely has to be a single engine?

Yup - very normal in pretty much all boats to do stuff like that. It's just the way it is. If you make one thing easy to get to... then something else will be hard to get to. And everyone complains about whatever they're working on NOW :)

If your ramp conditions allow it, power loading makes things much easier. Changing the bunk carpet out for plastic makes a world of difference, too.

Oh, well that makes it really easy! That's a LOT better access than most boats :) I think either way is fine - plenty of boats have identical tanks so it's not like it's "out of the norm". I guess the question is whether you like have that built-in "warning" that it's time to head back if...

In many Grady's, there's a bulkhead between the two tanks - creating one large and one small coffin for each tank. Is this not the case in your boat?

And... based on what you wrote, your primary focus should be to get the boat out of the water RIGHT NOW. Fixing the issue happens later.

The only thing holding it down is the screws and caulk. Since you removed the screws, it means you haven't cut through enough of the caulk, yet. And/or pull up harder or wedge it out. There are tons of posts here and on the net about hatch repair. Tons and tons. There's no difference in...

Oh and hire a bilge monkey for $20 to help you. AKA, a 12-year old kid.

At one point in time there was a cover. Grab the other end of that black hose - I suspect it's just snugged/tucked down so as not to possibly collect water. Someone may have put that there to make it a little eaiser to fill.

Need a little more detail. There's a few things I can think of that cause that - and pretty much already mentioned above, too. -- If the stern of the boat is still floating when you tighten the winch strap, the boat will slip backwards as it's pulled out. -- A NEW (relatively) winch strap...

You could look at your other tab? Pretty quick and easy to do if you just jump in the water. Seems like this approach would be the most productive for you. I would get the boat out of the water asap, though.

With a 2 stroke it's less of an issue than a 4-stroke. But it's only "better" to winterize it (extended lay-up) than not. It will hep to avoid losing compression/power over time. Certainly not a life and death thing, though.

Well, at least it's running 2-stroke through it - granted not as good as a true winterization, but it does help. Does that year have the "press a button to winterize" feature? Plus, if you're running a stabilizer year round, that helps tremendously.

If you ran the cocktail mixture (or fog, depending on engines) through the engine then that part is safe/good for the Winter. As far as leaving them tilted up... in theory, there should be enough room for collected rain water to freeze upward and not outward. So in theory they should be OK...

More than likely, although not guaranteed, the motor spline is OK. The wiper arm hub is usually the culprit in cases like this. If it's past soaking/etc... just cut it like you were thinking. Once you get 90% of the way through, you can likely split it with a large screwdriver.