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Looks like a kill switch. Flick it down and you probably won't be able to start the engine. If it's still operational, that is. At 40 years old and who knows-how-many-owners, you never know!

Understood!!! So, yeah, I would probably lean towards a backer plate rather than just the Togglers (although they are pretty darn good). Here's one way to do this without having any visible holes - Get a 3/16" or 1/4" aluminum plate that allows you to make a circle a bit larger than the seat...

No "cut up" - but you're going to need to fasten the seat base really good. Screwing it down isn't the best - it should be thru-bolted. -- Togglers are a good way to do that.

Once you remove the B-B, you can do whatever you want. But the mounting holes will be different.

Pumps are a pretty generic thing and not really specific to a boat. All they do is pump water through a tube - from under the boat to the side of the boat where it exits. March is a good/common manufacturer. I'm sure you know where the seacock is to close off the supply (and, if needed, to...

I would definitely look into getting rid of that. It might be fine for a while, depending on where/how you boat, but eventually (possibly VERY quickly) the aluminum is going to corrode away. Even stainless screws can cause issues. Get a Marelon bulkhead fitting and you'll be golden. Even a...

Correct. But it at least "complains" to let you know there's some sort of issue - at which time one could further investigate.

Oh, well that explanation makes more sense! When you said "fill the hole", it didn't make sense. Truthfully, leaving it bare isn't a big problem since if it gets wet, it will always dry out. Unless, of course, you leave the bilge wet. As long as you are 100% sure it sealed, though, you're...

Well, now it's getting confusing. Why would you be filling up the drain hole?

Do you mean you are replacing the garboard FLANGE? Unless you dig out and clean/strip all of the silicone, most sealants will have trouble adhering. Something like BoatLife Lifeseal will work, though. Do not use anything like 3M5200 - that's super glue and not needed for a case like this...

Is that a bronze flange? Is that OK on an aluminum bracket? It seems that would cause corrosion of the aluminum over time.

Yer welcome!

A firm "clunk" in the lower unit gears going into gear is normal... and GOOD. Firm, quick engagement is much better than grinding the gears! The sound will be less noticeable in the water. Trim sensor is on the engine - can diagnose there. Fuel gauge... check at the sender. Short sender...

I think this is a good idea, regardless of the insurance company. It looks like your manual switch is connected direct to the battery - it should really be connected to switched power so it can't accidentally be left or bumped on. Granted, the way you have it, when you manually turn the switch...

There's been a number of threads on here about this and it's kind of the same thing over and over - with the only real change being the price starting to come down. But one thing I still wonder about (maybe the answer was already given, but I haven't seen it?)... how is the prop repaired when...

Yes, that is the "spec" for the engine - and you want your WOT to fall in that range - ideally towards the top end. However, that's different than what we're talking about. You need to find YOUR boat's WOT (ideally with a normal load). Since you haven't yet really been able to do a real WOT...

Wait on the prop, Steve - from everything you've written so far the "issue" appears to be a free fix... just trim it up more for max speed/RPM. Besides, before playing with props, you still need WOT max RPM data.

When you want to find max speed and RPM (a different thing than normal running) it's just a hull - so really no different than other V-hulls for this purpose. Tabs refracted, WOT and keep trimming up and up. Forget the gauges - do it by feel and sound.

I agree - yes. But he would lose push with the smaller diameter - so I don't think that would be a way to go? Am I thinking correctly there?

Vic, is this more just a search to find an answer to the unkonwn? It seems you have your senders figured out, so that part is taken care of. So this is just more of a curiosity thing, right? You could take a look in your owner's manual (you can get it on GW's site, too) but I'm 99% sure pink...