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The best fix for heavier motors, plus additional weights, is to replace the outboard bracket with a full flotation bracket make out of composite materials. It should be buoyant enough to compensate for a four stroke engine, the kicker motor, plus another 100 lbs. for either the live bait tank...

You might think about using a lighter motor. I believe you could lose 100 lbs. if you swapped engines.

I have no fuel smell. This boat is now up for sale, as I moved one size up to the 258. Both have the same 2002-2004 Yami 225, except the 258 uses a 30" shaft.

I have both. However I think it is best to use the aft tank first, to keep weight off of the stern.

I have a Yamaha F225, I am sure it is lighter than the BF250. My cockpit drains are about 2.5" above the waterline, with 100 gallons of fuel in the boat.

I moved them to where the porta potty was. I found excellent hold down brackets on Amazon. The battery trays were also bought on Amazon. I moved the battery switch up forward as well. Had to run new battery cables to the stern. I choose sealed batteries, which do not leak or vent. The...

Mine sat low, not sure on the measurement as I have since removed the kicker and moved the batteries forward of the steering bulkhead. This raised the deck 2 additional inches above the waterline.

The harbor has nearly a one mile run of flat water, so is good for testing.

The boat I am referencing is for sale, so will probably have the prop cut down in diameter, and check the performance then. My new boat is a Grady 258 with the same engine, but with RH rotation. The new boat prop has dings, so will buy something from PropGods.com, probably a four blade. Ken...

Online I see that the engine max rpm is 5,000-6,000. https://www.rubexprops.com/boat-propellers/rpm-range/?make=Yamaha

Thanks to all for the advice. I will try another prop, then do another sea trial in smooth water, and learn what trim and tab settings work for speed.

I am new to running a GW, so do not know the best settings for trim. Yesterday had the Bennett trim tabs down 3-4 LED lights on the display, and set the motor trim to where the boat seemed to run relatively level. Where I am, NorCal, there is always a swell running so it is best to keep the...

Thanks for all the recommendations. I will dry out the forward bilge and check for water ingress. Also I noticed that if the forward bilge pump auto circuit is disabled, and then activated after a week, 4-5 gallons is pumped out. This seems unusual. When on a two hour cruise on Saturday, and...

Thanks for the quick reply. That is a much smaller prop than the 15.5" diameter currently on the engine. Engine is definitely overloaded.

Water seems to accumulating in the forward bilge of my 1996 Seafarer. Does any one know of any of the waterline thru holes go into the forward bilge area? If so, what is involved in inspecting the area, and checking the hose clamps? Can it be done through inspection ports, or do I have to pull...

My 1996 boat has the 15.5x17 Saltwater Series II prop, and it seems to be too much. Hole shot is good, midrange is okay, but above 22 knots it struggles somewhat. Max speed is 26 knots and 5,100 rpm. The original prop on a 258 with the same engine is 13.75x19. What do people recommend?

If your boat came with one fuel tank, it should only have one fuel sender. An additional sender could be for the fresh water tank. If your boat came pre wired for a second tank, search the general tank area and look for two wires. One a ground, the other your pink/white.

I wanted a more accurate reading of the fuel tanks on my 228, and installed two separate gauges with a wide sweep. With this setup, pink goes to one gauge, ping/white to the other. Bought the gauges on Amazon.

This makes sense. The bolster is very firmly attached, I thought it must use screws somewhere.

I was able to remove the cockpit bolsters, but not the inside ones. I did not find any screws, and the bolsters appear to be securely fixed to the fiberglass. Any suggestions?