If you have an older Grady 228 with a 225 or 250 4 stroke and a 9.9 kicker can you post a pic while at dock? I’m interested to see how much space you have from water level to top of engine bracket off the back. Mine sits low with all the weight of Honda 250 and 9.9 kicker.
Older 228’s with 4 stroke
- Thread starter 1994228DSS
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Mine sat low, not sure on the measurement as I have since removed the kicker and moved the batteries forward of the steering bulkhead. This raised the deck 2 additional inches above the waterline.
Can you explain the battery move? I’ve been thinking about that. Location you moved to and they have to be vented correct?
I moved them to where the porta potty was. I found excellent hold down brackets on Amazon. The battery trays were also bought on Amazon. I moved the battery switch up forward as well. Had to run new battery cables to the stern. I choose sealed batteries, which do not leak or vent. The battery area is somewhat vented as well. I used group 31's, which was totally overkill.
The battery switch should now go on the forward side of the steering bulkhead.
The battery switch should now go on the forward side of the steering bulkhead.
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I have a Yamaha F225, I am sure it is lighter than the BF250. My cockpit drains are about 2.5" above the waterline, with 100 gallons of fuel in the boat.
I have both. However I think it is best to use the aft tank first, to keep weight off of the stern.
I have no fuel smell. This boat is now up for sale, as I moved one size up to the 258. Both have the same 2002-2004 Yami 225, except the 258 uses a 30" shaft.
You might think about using a lighter motor. I believe you could lose 100 lbs. if you swapped engines.
The best fix for heavier motors, plus additional weights, is to replace the outboard bracket with a full flotation bracket make out of composite materials. It should be buoyant enough to compensate for a four stroke engine, the kicker motor, plus another 100 lbs. for either the live bait tank or a cooler full of ice sitting in the cockpit.
Fiberglass with Coosa Board 32 core would be the ideal materials to use. Stoner boat in Miami builds such brackets. Pulling the engine and swapping the bracket is not that hard a job, and would be a huge improvement. An aluminum bracket would also work, but if keeping the boat in a marina having a fiberglass bracket would allow you to use regular bottom paint, not copper free.
Fiberglass with Coosa Board 32 core would be the ideal materials to use. Stoner boat in Miami builds such brackets. Pulling the engine and swapping the bracket is not that hard a job, and would be a huge improvement. An aluminum bracket would also work, but if keeping the boat in a marina having a fiberglass bracket would allow you to use regular bottom paint, not copper free.