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One doesn't worry about scratching cheap plastic seats, either :) Are you at the boat to try what I mentioned above about CCW?

And, to add... this is not an uncommon thing for any boat. Seats are pushed outwards during installation to allow for maximum room between the seats yet still allow them to spin. If they spun easily in any direction without having to slide them, then people would complain that there's not...

So what you pictured is with the seat slid forward as far as possible? Did you try rotating the seat CCW? That might at least get the seat facing straight back. Check the slider/spider assembly on the bottom of the seat - sometimes you can reposition the seat (moving it to different holes).

Trailer... good deal! Complaining? Nah. GW's are expensive boats - that area certainly could have been done better! Something to keep in mind with freshwater... you need to cycle it through on a VERY regular basis or it will get stagnant/nasty. There are chemicals that help - even a bit of...

Does the seat slide? Slide it forward/back (depending on which way you rotate) as needed while you rotate.

Bingo - the exact thing I was going to mention... thanks for doing the brunt of the typing, John! It's funny you linked to Curt - 30 years ago, I bought my first Curt trailer hitch and it came with that "tool". I had never seen that before - what a GREAT idea to get bolts into blind holes...

Welcome! All of your questions sound straight forward enough and easy to do. Port compartment - sure, nothing wrong with adding a standpipe. But what about a circulating pump? Maybe this box is best used with ice to keep all the fish you're going to catch on ice :) Sealing it... easy enough...

He doesn't seem to be too interested.

I know YOU know... just adding for clarification. Personally, I try to stay away from check valves... unless you have really good access to them... but in this case, he'd need another check :)

Oh, gotcha. That was awful good timing that you posted that at about that same time we were talking about it! Or... I guess our conversation spurred you to check further?

Off center is to retain best use of the pulpit and anchor - especially a boat that stores the anchor on the pulpit. Seems like in your case, it's not a high priority, so you're good to go. Sounds like you're on top of things - it's all pretty straight forward regardless of the boat. Mount it...

Welcome to Boat Mechanic's 101 :) But, yeah, that's why this should be in your tool bag :p

You're referring to my post from a few minutes ago? Note that I didn't say it was "required".

An engraved metal plate is fine. But... take a picture of the transom embossed one as well as the entire transom piece you cut off... and maybe even cut out the HIN and save that little section. Most (maybe all?) boat builders put a second HIN somewhere else in the boat, hidden. Common...

You should do fine with the 75" - it just needs to be comfortably below the waterline - but of course the bow may bounce around and you want it to stay below - so the extra length you have there will be good, just in case. You'll have plenty of length. Down the road (or lake)... :)

I've done it on other boats - and the process is exactly the same. Meaning, don't concern yourself with finding info from someone that has done it on a "192" - a boat is a boat is a boat as far as this is concerned. There isn't "one" best way to do this. You can build it out of 3/4" HDPE, but...

Perfect - you're good to go. Since your boat is currently on a trailer, that makes things nice as you pretty easily get your measurements. "Ideally", the bunks should go on the outboard side of the strakes. It's not imperative to do this - but it does help to center the boat better. Leave...

Two things are confusing... -- "On the deadrise angle"... what does that mean? Deadrise angle is a measurement term - it's not something you can "put" something on. -- 1x5? Unless those are supported underneath by metal, that can't be right. You probably mean 2x6? Grady does offer specs...

Being an older boat, the setup isn't as good as it should be. Best thing is to just try different styles of seals that stay more flexible and don't flatten out.

Yup, I think you're on the right track to question it and get more info. That bolt/nut/washer look awful clean - like they were just recently replaced.... or maybe the bracket was removed to repair the transom? Investigate. What does the seller say about it?