Search results

Is the hood a replacement hood? Sure, anything can be painted. It's all about the prep work and using the right products (especially the primer), though.

FYI, I made an assumption that the OP was referring to an aluminum tank... But, Gulf, you're right - he didn't say what he has. Plastic is of less concern and Al.

There's really no answer to this. It all depends on where the boat was used, how it was cared for, how/where it was stored, how good the maintenance has been on the floor hatch and such. The ONLY way to know is to inspect it, which is pretty easy.

Go to GW's site and look for (or search their site) for the archived brochures. I only very quickly looked, but it looks the same? Regardless, if the floor is flexing, the attachment hardware is not an issue because the then the seat frame is tight to the floor. Otherwise, the frame would be...

Right up front, I have not done this modification. While "physics works", you're not going to adding THAT much weight compared to the boat's dimensions that it would be a major concern. I highly doubt you'd notice anything... or very, very minor... when no one is up there. When you and...

Yes, SS. But they might already be SS - and if so, can just be cleaned and re-used. Yes, you can get nylon washers to help guard against the galvanic corrosion you're starting to get. You can also epoxy the bare aluminum (clean it really well, first) to help with that, too. I suspect what...

Since it's minimal right now... get it taken care of before it requires a lot more work. You should be able to take two bolts (1&3, then 2&4) out at time to fix without any issues.

Yup - issue FOUND! There's not bracket on that boat so the anti-vent plate should pretty much be even with the keel or less than an inch above it. "Jack plates" are used to raise the engine, but you can switch them around. This may be the least expensive way to go - rather than a replacement...

Hmmm... well that new info, it puts doubt on a slipping hub. But then... it depends on how heavy he is and how hard on the throttle you're going. Is it a Yamaha prop? Has a stamp of "17M" on it? Is the prop in perfect shape? What type of RPM's can you get to going WOT and trimmed up till no...

I'll check my mother's for a comparison - she has the same boat/engine. BUT... you may very well simply have an old hub that is slipping based on what you wrote. That would be a much more likely scenario based on the info given.

Wouldn't have two vac pumps. See my post above about these pumps and differences. If he does have overboard discharge, that's likely what he has.

Good deal. Wakeboarding is fine from these pylongs, for sure. It's the tubing that can put a MUCH larger stress on the pylon. Some pylons and bolt-down/anchor system are fine for tubing - but a lot are not. Look at the Turbo Swing - a WHOLE lot easier to install, as well. And the TS can be...

If you've only emailed, call a dealer directly - that's an easy thing to get a price on. Or call another dealer. Do you want to ski or tube from it? Some pylons are not meant to pull tubes - then can bend/break/become a missle that is launched towards the tubers. Tubing... you can go right...

Oh, German, I meant ask... what does the cleat actually look like? Is it a standard looking, 4-bolt open-base type cleat? I'm assuming it is. As you look for new cleats (whether Marinium or maybe SS... FYI, Marinium may be really hard to find), the proper term for that cleat is a Herreshoff...

Davis, that part is a "valved", not a pressure reducing valve. Valved means "one way". There's no reason to limit garden hose pressure. That product is made by Colder Products, not Fresh Water - they are just a retailer. Use the Colder ID # and you will be able to find it for sale at many...

Oh, I see. Were you able to find an exact replacement? If so, that's a GOOD find! :) If not, and you're intent on perfectly matching the rest... maybe just get something close? In the end, all that really matters is that it works :) My '82 had Marinium cleats... given your boat isn't a...

If I am summing up correctly, the question is... "My transducer stern block came loose, what should I do?" Meaning, the parts about water in the bow are immaterial to the issue, correct? You mentioned "bolts" came loose. Was it not installed properly to begin with? The reason I ask is that...

There's no "correct" placement in the sense that there is only one specific place they must go. Put them where it works best for you - add a decent backer plate.

Couldn't tell you for sure, but it's easy enough to figure out by just looking at things. A charger is either hooked direct to the batteries or the battery switch. Start at your batteries - do you see small wires? Often times, there will be fuses inline on those wires.

Those two items will not be protected by a common fuse. If the box on your boat isn't labelled, and there isn't specific info in your manual, then use the wire colors to match things up... either by comparing to the actual switch and/or using the guide Hook provided as wire colors are...