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Adding onto that... Because bronze is a soft metal it seals very well on it's own without any tape/goop/etc - not that it's bad to use those things - I've just never found the need for it on dozens of my own boats/family boats over the years. Nor for hundreds of customers boats. That comment...

While it can still be done, it's a lot harder to use the muffs if the boat is in the water. Secondly, using either the built-in hose fitting on the engine (or the remote adapter that is hull mounted) doesn't require running the engine. Different strokes for different folks - all good in the end!

Oh, wait. This is different than what we were thinking based on your desciption. You could try to squeeze some sealant in there with a plastic baggie or syringe... but it's just a guess as to how long that will last. The next option is to put some effort and time in trying to remove the bolts...

"Most" likely... it's just heavy. The first half of the lift is the worst - until the weight of the engine head starts to counter the lower unit weight. Add more muscle :) or, just be a little ingenious and use some mechanical advantage... a floor jack to help get started... a come-a-long or...

Cool - thank you for the detail. That helps by giving us more detail. Try this: go out with just yourself on a relatively calm day. Go WOT and KEEP trimming up till speed no longer increases or the prop starts to ventilate. THAT'S the way to find your true max RPM. And while you probably...

Look for the manual bypass. It's typically on the stbd side of the engine bracket (or, at least, on the same side as the pump) - sometimes recessed into a hole. You may need a large flat screwdriver or possibly a socket. Sometimes there's even a little embossed picture of an outboard. It...

It might very well be the stock prop and then it "should" give you better performance. But you need to ID the prop for us. WOT is low... unless you've running heavy - please clarify. Can you better explain "trimmed properly"? Clarify your speed/RPM/trim/conditions regarding your staying...

Athwartship... oh, good! I don't have to over explain things :):) I-beam size. There are calculations that can be done to figure out load capacity based on span. But the reality is that the span we're talking about is extremely minimal based on the load they are carrying... especially if you...

To me, it looks more like the damage was caused by a foreign material (rope?) rubbing the paint off. For example, a line tied from the stbd stern, going port-wise across the back. And that caused really bad damage to the hood, requiring replacement. In the end, the cause is a moot point - but...

You know... I'm kinda liking the idea of clamps with tabs that allow for mounting the I-beams. And, there's no reason that the I-beams have to run fore/aft. They could run port-stbd, allowing for the clamps to be secured a little close to the centerline of the boat... requiring slightly...

No problem, Xavier. We just need to shift gears. All good! So, while I know that Al loses strength like you said, I did not know the amount. Good to know. Although, given how strong aluminum tubing is to begin with, it probably is of little significance for the amount of weight we're...

Is the hood a replacement hood? Sure, anything can be painted. It's all about the prep work and using the right products (especially the primer), though.

FYI, I made an assumption that the OP was referring to an aluminum tank... But, Gulf, you're right - he didn't say what he has. Plastic is of less concern and Al.

There's really no answer to this. It all depends on where the boat was used, how it was cared for, how/where it was stored, how good the maintenance has been on the floor hatch and such. The ONLY way to know is to inspect it, which is pretty easy.

Go to GW's site and look for (or search their site) for the archived brochures. I only very quickly looked, but it looks the same? Regardless, if the floor is flexing, the attachment hardware is not an issue because that means the seat frame is tight to the floor. Otherwise, the frame would...

Right up front, I have not done this modification. While "physics works", you're not going to adding THAT much weight compared to the boat's dimensions that it would be a major concern. I highly doubt you'd notice anything... or very, very minor... when no one is up there. When you and...

Yes, SS. But they might already be SS - and if so, can just be cleaned and re-used. Yes, you can get nylon washers to help guard against the galvanic corrosion you're starting to get. You can also epoxy the bare aluminum (clean it really well, first) to help with that, too. I suspect what...

Since it's minimal right now... get it taken care of before it requires a lot more work. You should be able to take two bolts (1&3, then 2&4) out at time to fix without any issues.

Yup - issue FOUND! There's not bracket on that boat so the anti-vent plate should pretty much be even with the keel or less than an inch above it. "Jack plates" are used to raise the engine, but you can switch them around. This may be the least expensive way to go - rather than a replacement...

Hmmm... well that new info, it puts doubt on a slipping hub. But then... it depends on how heavy he is and how hard on the throttle you're going. Is it a Yamaha prop? Has a stamp of "17M" on it? Is the prop in perfect shape? What type of RPM's can you get to going WOT and trimmed up till no...