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I just did the exhaust kit repair, but then found that the block has corrosion. Engine has only 466 hours since new. For sale: 30" mid section with lower unit, $800. or the entire engine, $1,100 with Yamaha SWS II prop. I am in northern California.

I just did the kit on my 2004 3.3L. It took a while, there are numerous steps that you have to be careful of. If you have some mechanical experience it is not overwhelming. I watched the Boats.net video repeatedly, and made a printed worklist with photos. However after completing the project...

Thanks for the recommendation. I bought the boat a few months ago and have not run it yet. The seller stated that the exhaust has been scoped, and that it definitely needed the kit. Engine has 466 hours, the exhaust had never been upgraded. As I now have the engine off, I was wondering if...

I have a 30" lower unit.

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My 258 came with the engine mounted using the third hole on the mounting bracket. I have the engine off, and am thinking of using the second hole. What have people found is the best mounting height?

The best fix for heavier motors, plus additional weights, is to replace the outboard bracket with a full flotation bracket make out of composite materials. It should be buoyant enough to compensate for a four stroke engine, the kicker motor, plus another 100 lbs. for either the live bait tank...

You might think about using a lighter motor. I believe you could lose 100 lbs. if you swapped engines.

I have no fuel smell. This boat is now up for sale, as I moved one size up to the 258. Both have the same 2002-2004 Yami 225, except the 258 uses a 30" shaft.

I have both. However I think it is best to use the aft tank first, to keep weight off of the stern.

I have a Yamaha F225, I am sure it is lighter than the BF250. My cockpit drains are about 2.5" above the waterline, with 100 gallons of fuel in the boat.

I moved them to where the porta potty was. I found excellent hold down brackets on Amazon. The battery trays were also bought on Amazon. I moved the battery switch up forward as well. Had to run new battery cables to the stern. I choose sealed batteries, which do not leak or vent. The...

Mine sat low, not sure on the measurement as I have since removed the kicker and moved the batteries forward of the steering bulkhead. This raised the deck 2 additional inches above the waterline.

The harbor has nearly a one mile run of flat water, so is good for testing.

The boat I am referencing is for sale, so will probably have the prop cut down in diameter, and check the performance then. My new boat is a Grady 258 with the same engine, but with RH rotation. The new boat prop has dings, so will buy something from PropGods.com, probably a four blade. Ken...

Online I see that the engine max rpm is 5,000-6,000. https://www.rubexprops.com/boat-propellers/rpm-range/?make=Yamaha

Thanks to all for the advice. I will try another prop, then do another sea trial in smooth water, and learn what trim and tab settings work for speed.

I am new to running a GW, so do not know the best settings for trim. Yesterday had the Bennett trim tabs down 3-4 LED lights on the display, and set the motor trim to where the boat seemed to run relatively level. Where I am, NorCal, there is always a swell running so it is best to keep the...

Thanks for all the recommendations. I will dry out the forward bilge and check for water ingress. Also I noticed that if the forward bilge pump auto circuit is disabled, and then activated after a week, 4-5 gallons is pumped out. This seems unusual. When on a two hour cruise on Saturday, and...

Thanks for the quick reply. That is a much smaller prop than the 15.5" diameter currently on the engine. Engine is definitely overloaded.