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I don't believe that any water intrusion into the plywood transom will be localized. I was getting cracking of fiberglass under the rub rail on the starboard side. Aluminum bang cap was eroded and transom swollen. You can see when "skinned" the plywood was black completely across. Winter freeze...

Here is a front view with the glassed over windows. They didn't open. They leaked a little but not too bad. I eliminated them to clean up the look of the boat. I don't have a photo of the interior but it is the original look - frame with curtain.

Not really sure what you are talking about. How about a photo? "boat yard notice the existing block on the bottomk, stern, was a little lose"

There are several GG posts on this subject. Search: Marine Glass Specialties Florida. You can try these guys but their stock is running low over the years. Marine Glass Specialties in Florida (813) 926-3717 Knowledgable, helpful and lots of stuff in stock. Old windshields are hard to find...

Start with your owners manual - Download from GW site. https://grady-white.files.svdcdn.com/production/Documents/Owners-Manuals/2007/2007-300.pdf?dm=1765209172 Help us help you! Alternative: AI Overview On a 2007 Grady-White Marlin 300, the battery charger is located in the aft bilge area...

I'm not familiar with your hull. I have a 1997 268 Islander that I did fuel tanks on a few years ago. At 37 years old I would say you need a new tank. I just had my transom replaced due to water intrusion. You won't know about stringers until you get in there but transoms are generally more of a...

My 1997 Islander owners manual (download from GW site) has fuse and general wiring info/guide. Not sure what they include with the newer models. Start there. https://grady-white.files.svdcdn.com/production/Documents/Owners-Manuals/2020/235-2020_20190916.pdf?dm=1764970766

I'm just finishing up the rebuild of the transom on my 268 Islander. Inside vs outside depends on if the stringers are involved with the transom damage. I suspected string damage but they were "capped" with glass and were fine. Initially I was going to do the transom myself. Planned on doing it...

Transom moving along. Full Coosa Board Bluewater 26 transom. 3/4"+1/2"+1/2" laminate. West System G/Flex epoxy laminate to aluminum. Eliminated "bang cap". Will be finished up this week. Done by Signature Fiberglass in Ocean View, NJ. They know their stuff and will work with you to get you...

Couple of threads that discuss bow thruster install. https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/thruster-install-on-232-will-post-pics.35951/#post-250116 https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/islander-bow-thruster.26202/

It's not realistic to expects a boat setup for twin engine to plane on a single engine. It's not prop'ed correctly and it's a strain on the motor. I have a 268 Islander which is basically a narrow beam Sailfish with twin F150's. The boat has always been difficult to maneuver/dock even in a 5...

Stress cracks where? On the bracket or on the transom?

It's not poor sealing at the factory that is the Achilles Heel on GW. I would bet every GW transom that left the factory in the plywood days was completely sealed. It's the overall design though that over time invites water in. Too many penetrations into the wood core and cheating on caulk...

Transom is back together. Next is the finish work. The transom is three pieces of Coosa board 3/4”, 1/2” and 1/2” laminated with glass and resin. Laminated to 3/8” x 2" x 8" aluminum L-bracket with West System G/Flex epoxy and glass. Old splashwell trim and bang cap will be eliminated...

GW Owners manual (downloadable from GW) usually have location diagrams. It should be obvious from there where the correct thru hulls should be. First thing I would do is locate all thru hulls in the area and draw a diagram. Match up with GW Owners Manual. Go from there.

I'm disappointed with Grady White with their transom design at least on the pre-2000 boats. Euro transom in particular but all plywood transoms are fair game. Everyone blames the "bang cap" and thinks that if it's caulked and not corroded life is good! The fiberglass cover for lack of a better...

When I re-installed my hardtop after re-finishing it I installed plastic insulators top and bottom. These keep the stainless from contacting the aluminum. If as SkunkBoat said, if they got enlarged/elongated drill them out and insulate them. It's easy and effective. It's a common technique used...

316 Stainless is plenty. 306 is cheap stainless and will rust stain. Should be 1/4-20. The hardtop should be caulked - silicone ok - bed it and keep it from "working" the bolts. Washers and stop nuts.

You should do the update using the Fusion app.

The section of the transom below the aluminum bracket are where the stringers are attached. The transom was 2 pieces of 3/4" marine plywood. The wet resin soaks into the plywood and several layers of fiberglass material are overlaid. When they opened the transom up the two layers of 3/4" plywood...