1997 Islander 268 Transom Rebuild Project

[Hookup1]

Thanks for brining us along. Gives me some confidence if/when my 2007 gets there.

What is 'petrified plywood'?

Tx, Rob

The section of the transom below the aluminum bracket are where the stringers are attached. The transom was 2 pieces of 3/4" marine plywood. The wet resin soaks into the plywood and several layers of fiberglass material are overlaid. When they opened the transom up the two layers of 3/4" plywood was wet, had turned black and practically fell out. That resin preserved a thin layer of the plywood that still has a healthy wood color to it.

That layer of fiberglass and the aluminum will be cleaned up and re-used.

 

[Hookup1]

I'm disappointed with Grady White with their transom design at least on the pre-2000 boats. Euro transom in particular but all plywood transoms are fair game. Everyone blames the "bang cap" and thinks that if it's caulked and not corroded life is good! The fiberglass cover for lack of a better term in front of the transom in the splash well has numerous screws in it. You may be able to keep the splash well waterproof for 30 years. But the transom top extends out to both sides under the top/bottom half of the boat at the rub rail. The crap they fill with is brittle and doesn't adhere well. It's impossible to prevent the top/bottom half of the boat and the rub rail dry underneath.

After reviewing my transom here is what I found. The 1 1/2" Plywood in my transom was mush. The aluminum bracket was secured properly to the stringers. The bracket saved my boat - top Motor bolts went into aluminum bracket. This would prevent the motors from tearing out at the vertical edges (hopefully!).

For the re-build the aluminum bracket is a big concern. Bonding to aluminum is a big problem. Oxidation. Etch primer is recommended to prep. West Systems has a special epoxy - G\Flex - that is the right stuff at least to attach the Coosa board.