Search results

Oh... we just had a Sea Ray gel tech come to our shop for a warranty repair - he brought a cool little tool that Spectrum Gel has (I'm sure they're not the only ones). It's a 4"x1-1/2" tube that is, essentially, the same "paint matcher" at a paint store. He took multiple measurements around...

I think it's going to look great - the shape you have looks very natural/blends right in. I guess what I meant about the 90mm was... why worry about keeping as much of the original pod as possible? If you cut it at all, might as well cut as much as you can... what are 'ya saving it for...

"I was really curious if any body in the group actually pulled the new lines thru and any input" -- Yes, what I posted was some tips I've used (in addition to what Seasick mentioned) over the years. Silicon spray is a safe product for rubber. It actually helps preserve/condition rubber. Dish...

If the glass is perfectly flat, yes, that's your best option. If it's curved.... it's going to get very expensive.

Cool - thanks for the posting this info - it's always good to see what someone's process is! :) They were sitting on rubber hoses? Shame on GW :) Depending on all of the variables, it can lead to corrosion of the tank since it doesn't allow air to surround the tank and moisture can stay in...

That's going to look really nice when you're all done. Are you planning on trying to match the existing gelcoat... or maybe a slight contracting color... or maybe wrap in vinyl (black, for example)? The forming you did around the hardtop support post looks really nice. One quick question...

I love using foamboard for templates - started using that about 20 years ago as a "Hmmm, I wonder if this would work?" kind of thing :cool: I even used foamboard for the core of a floor hatch that I rebuilt! Been thinking of doing something somewhat similar with my '82 - interested to see...

Is there sealant holding the livewell in? Try a putty knife or even some strong fishing line pulled under the perimeter to break the sealant.

Can't help with the solution as I've never been in that situation, but it's an interesting dilemma and primarily, that's why I'm writing to be able to follow this. Obviously what's on the top side (CC, dual console, WA, whatever) doesn't really factor in - other than having extra canvas up...

Good thought with NAPA - if they physically don't do it, they'll likely be able to direct you to a local paint/autobody supply shop. I did that for gelcoat (made paint) a while back, as well - but never thought to ask if they can do vinyl dye.

I don't know if SEM has records of that - but try them. Or maybe they can send you a color swatch.

I've seen plenty of spider cracks longer than that. Over time they tend to travel and travel. Is the starting point a screw hole? Another possible cause is the original build and spraying the gel to be too thick in that area. This is more likely to happen to an outside corner than an...

Anything over the top will just be a bandaid... and like all bandaids, they eventually come off. For now, until you're ready to grind it out and fill, find the end of all of the spider cracks and drill a 1/8" hole just barely through the gel into the glass underneath. That will keep them from...

Ummm... I just looked at the picture even closer. I suggested the wrong anchor because I only saw a bolt for one roller. But looking closer, it appears there is a hole where a second (lower/first) roller should be. Do you NOT have a roller there? You can see this better than us.

It kind of looks like that's a roller meant for a fluke anchor? But, as mentioned above - if it works it works. And, yes, don't forget the safety chain... unless you like the option of the anchor ending up in your prop.... or acting as a, well, an anchor on the highway!

Oh, sure - agree. Essentially, that would be a flaky connection that is making/breaking. Probably "not" on a 5-year old boat... but who knows! It'll help when the OP describes things better or posts a pic.

Good point - even though I read the post, for some reason, in my mind, I thought he meant a spark at the battery terminal. Yes, agree, a spark at already made connection is not normal. However, it would be "more likely" that there was some kind of miscommunication between the mechanic and OP...

"Is memory wire needed"... some of these newer stereos and MFD's now use a "standby" always hot wire. This is to lessen the time it takes to boot them up... because people are impatient, anymore :p :eek:

It's amazing how, likely, less than an ounce of gas/additive can spread out! Side note... consider adding a fuel vent whistle. You'll never spill again. And anytime you fill up, people will stare at your boat with a confused look on their face :)

As far as the actual operation of the engines, there's no question that digital/electronic controls are superior. Soooo much nicer. Cost aside, the downside is that there are more electronics to fail for various reasons. Generally, they are (and have been) quite reliable - but there is that...