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Might be easiest to just go with black HDPE?

I forgot to mention to my above post... the obvious next step to having your friend sit on the motor hood is to then push him into the water when you're done ;)

One small point... to be the most accurate... have the friend sit ON the motor hood.

Oh, it's plastic. OK. Disregard some of what I said. But, sure, the repair is basically the same. The plastic won't be polyethylene in this use - so that's a good thing!

I would just hate to someone spend a ton of money when the fix might be simple. Another thing to look at is the spring tension of the finger. If that's worn/loose/light, then the rope slips on the gypsy.

I hear what you're saying about being frustrated. But before you throw money at it... Have you verified what gypsy you have and what its specs are compared to what chain you're using and rope size? Have you gotten the splice re-done by a pro? I really feel this is your first step (assuming...

I think he was too busy talking about the big one that got away and forgot to put the "r" at the end of "headline". :) Fish, I'm not overly familiar with your boat. But the headliner is fiberglass/gelcoat? First thing to do - if it's what I'm thinking (pic would help) - is to drill a small...

I assume you mean the bilge access hatch, correct? I'm sure there are pics you can find easily enough... but based on your pic it looks like a good/easy candidate for a piano hinge between the small and large hatch. But... is the perimeter underneath the hatch already channeled as a rain...

If you start by prying the panel, use a wide, plastic trim removal tool. They're inexpensive either online or Harbor Freight. I believe the lights pull down/out, right? It *might* help to pull them down to give you a better handhold when pulling the panel down.

Norcoastal... generally speaking, a solid transom will be fine. However, there are mitigating circumstances where there could be an issue. Any holes cut in the transom (rigging holes, for example) are a source of water entry. But if one is prudent, then they keep up on resealing them and it...

The bilge is the lowest area of the boat. What you're asking about is a bilge PUMP. If you can't find the "bilge"... you might want to hire someone :) You may have two. One in the cabin - check the access hole in the floor. The aft bilge pump will NOT be under the gas tank. It will be...

Explain that better. It's not clear what you are talking about or referring to. Post some pictures of what you're talking about if your manual or other things people have posted don't clear it up for you.

Hot... True! Yellow... has it? I thought it was around the mid-2000's that it came on the scene? Or, at least, that's the first I can remember it... But then... I guess nearly 2 decades isn't exactly "new", is it? Man, how time flies!

Assuming the manufacturer puts some thought into it... Black is + in AC wiring... but, yeah, doesn't really correlate to DC. Probably by a manufacturer that isn't really well versed in marine wiring? Oh, and just to make it even more confusing... yellow is the new black in DC... but not...

Good point - I looked at his pic, but I "thought" it was an incandescent.

Sure! The other thing you can do is just crimp female spade connectors on your existing wiring. All the same in the end, though.

In a circuit like this, with a bulb like that, it makes no difference. Good to ask, though!

The nice thing about painting is that you can do anything you want underneath! Caulk and paint hide what ain't :) That's an old saying a buddy of mine taught me decades ago... and it's still true!

Looks good! Laying that big sheet of ply in place in one shot, you likely have some air bubbles (it's almost impossible to avoid when doing it in one, big, stiff piece)... but it'll still be fine. I did the same thing with my boat - the floor was actually more "skid" than "non-skid". You...

Agree. A local shop will be the best/easiest solution - you won't find these cushions to buy "off the shelf".