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Yup! 100% dead-on. I have seen this firsthand - top-tier brands that have always had solid hardware... we're seeing screws and snaps that are showing rust after just a couple seasons... and we RARELY see rust on this type of hardware from these top-tier brands. The way to ID the inferior...

It appears, from what I can see in the pics, that most (all?) of them all stem from a screw hole. The underlying cause is improper hole pre-drilling... or no pre-drilling to start with. Unfortunately, this is more common with covid-built boats.

A bracket, although it's an extra "wetted surface", would also help with hole shot since it's acting sort of like a trim tab. The wetted surface "drag" would be less influential than the extra lift that's provided.

To add more info based on real-life experience... I've been on the same hull as mine (same engine) without a bracket and there is noticeable difference. Other's results may vary - but assuming everythig is installed correctly, there should be a general benefit to a bracket.

:) Being further back/off the transom provides more leverage for the mmotor against the hull. Lift is increased to increase both hole shot and also allows the boat to run higher out of the water at speed while the engine still stays in clean water since, although it's slightly higher in...

A bracket always helps increase performance. There's going to be more stress on your transom, though (leverage). Be sure your transom is solid... and highly consider adding some interior reinforcing/bracing. Now... how much slack do you have in your steering cable... shift/throttle cables...

Can you look at Harry's console... with the MFD models he has... and grab the dimensions of the MFD's from the manufacturer's website? That should probably get you a decent idea.

Oh... just a personal preference of course, but... I went with a contrasting color for the deck paint. I was worried that if the color match wasn't perfect it would look "off". Although, my boat is an '82 and I'm not trying to win any beauty pageants with it, either :rolleyes: All I wanted...

Sanding worn diamond pattern to be smooth.... Nope - no need - just scuff well and clean. That's exactly what I did to mine. I used Pettit EZDeck, as well.

That looks like an air void from initial glass layup at the factory. I've seen it plenty of times. As noted above, first step is to grind away till you get to solid glass... the final repair will depend on how big the actual void/hole is... which you won't really know till you start grinding...

Try googling for "side mount" fishing rod holder.

Huh? I think we need a better description of what you're talking about. Actually, pictures would be good, too.

Did you try reaching out to Bennett directly? If not, start there.

The cylinder is screwed to the transom. There is an extension nipple (on the inside) screwed into the mount that attaches to the hull. The hyd line is screwed to the other end of the nipple.

That's good. That means the issue leans towards the probability of just having a bum battery.

Keep in mind, that to fully help, we can only use the information that you provide :) Did you have good charging voltage from both sources?

Checking a battery for voltage doesn't (definitively) tell if it's bad. Charging it fully and then load testing does, however. Just seeing low voltage doesn't tell the whole story (see my post above).

When I mentioned checking voltage, above, I meant directly at the battery. Need to first figure out if the issue is upstream or downstream of the batteries.

This can be a fun project - but I don't think it's something you want to try and create before having the existing panel in your hand. Nothing against any of the guys here, but to make this look GOOD, your dimensions need to pretty much dead-on and you don't want to rely on some guy's...

Easier solution.... Check for charging voltage (via both battery charger and engine running). If good, disconnect the cables at the batteries and load test each battery. Replace the bad one... and the other one unless it's recently replaced.