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I hear what you're saying and can appreciate that. But I think that's really starting to split hairs - and I don't mean that to come across as crass - it is not intended to. I guess we're I'm going with this is that, yes, "on paper" there are considerations - but in reality those two engines...

Yeah, that way you know for sure and don't have to trust us boneheads that may/may not know how to use a tape measure :D

I agree. That would be my thought process, as well. I've run into enough engines that don't pee (or pee well) on a hose but pee perfectly in the water to not worry about it. Even the same model/size engines exhibit different characteristics. But I also understand why you asked as it "just...

Yeah, but it's still all a moot point given the insignificant difference. Think about it - there's no way the transom is built to such tight tolerances and manufacturing exactness to where a measly 27lbs is going to break the transom. It's a fair question - but there's better places to put...

Through the flush port doesn't always provide enough water through the circuit to force water out of the per hole. In reality, a peeing is not necessary at all for a healthy engine. It's hit or miss - some engines do, some don't, some do sometimes but not other times. It's totally a...

I'd measure one of the other pieces to be sure. You've either already got, or will have, the top cap off (which is pretty easy to do)?

I think you answered your own question You're talking about 27lbs.

I meant to add this above... But... if the sender is torq'd down (by feel, I don't necessarily mean with a torque wrench) evenly, it should seal easily/properly even if the tank is wet. There are lot's of poly tanks where the sender is s exposed to the elements 100% of the time - and those...

Hmmm. That's a good question Seasick. I've used BRT with many applications - but honestly, can't recall if I've used it with fuel. Will need to re-think/check.

Thanks for the extra info, Chris. A poly tank will often expand and contract as fuel is put in. do you think 5200/etc will still work with that expansion/contraction? I know they are slightly flexible - just not sure if they are felixbile enough?

Necessity is the mother of invention!

Butyl rubber tape will offer a better seal than a rubber gasket... and/or you could use the BRT in addition to the rubber gasket. Gluing PU... it's been my understanding that only way to get a solid bond is to first heat treat the PU to eliminate it's inherent "slipperiness"... which involves...

Never have I ever... replaced a spring. Just replace the arm. However... IF you can find just the spring (try a place like AM Equipment)... you FIRST need to take the arm off. And that will likely be the most challenging part... and may result in cutting/breaking the arm... which means we're...

No, it's "simple". And, often, I am only capable of simple... NOT brilliant :)

A buddy to do the whole thing for you is even better better :)

You'll want to measure those things that Seasick mentioned. Different anchor manufacturers will different measurements. So you need thos measurents and then compare to the anchors you are considering. It's not a "black and white" thing - there are many shades of grey here.

Ah, OK - yes the access lids are the "inspection lids"... or pie plates. You're good - if you had eyes in there and no more water was running into the aft bilge from the forward area of the bilge, then you're good. Yes, very normal for boats with floors that are close to the waterline to have...

How are you confirming that the bilge was COMPLETELY empty? It sounds like you just relied on the bilge pump? The plan was to take the garboard drain plug out while on the ramp. Or, while on the ramp, did you pop the transom well pie plates out to visually inspect? Looking at the picture of...

-- If you removed ground wires from the battery and items still work... then you haven't removed their ground... which means those battery wires you removed may be old and no longer used. -- Look for a ground bus bar... house items may be grounded there and the ground to the bus bar comes from...

The air pocket is not "just" starting to form - the air void was always there, you're just now starting to the see the effects of it. It was likely formed when a large piece of wood was laid down - it's extremely hard - if not impossible - to avoid air pockets when laying a large piece down...