03 Suzuki DT225 oil warning lamp issue

[Lt.Mike]

Hit my first problem today with my ‘03 Suzuki DR225 2 stroke that I bought used and mounted 10 years ago.
Took the boat out yesterday and anything over 1,800 rpm would trigger the oil Injection lamp and alarm.
It was the first outing this year but I ran it in a 100gal Rubbermaid stock tank for about 40minutes prior without issue .
Rev’ed to about 3,800 and it governs itself pulling power and not letting it rev further .
I doubt the engine was damaged because being that was my first run of the year following winter storage the tank had a 50:1 premix, it could’ve run without the oil injection pump.
Upon returning I ran it again in the tank to flush the salt and try to replicate the oil warning lamp issue. The light flickered once but it didn’t happen again . I ran the rpms gently up to 3,500 and no light but I could hear a random clatter at the higher rev.
I’ve heard these sometimes snap the oil pump rod and wonder if thats what happened here.
Anyone here have experience with these engines that can provide some helpful tips the check ?
Note: I bought this boat back in 2013 and in 2104 at the end of summer I flushed the engine and stored it for a few weeks to be pulled out for the fall striper run. When I went to test fire it it was locked up like it threw a rod. Have no idea how or when that happened. With a wrench on the flywheel it turned slightly but I could hear metal on metal inside the crankcase.
I made a post on that when it happened…
Several months later I found and made a deal on an outboard that was the same year, make, model only 100 digits apart on the serial number with 370 hrs on it. Being the same OB it was plug and play. All the cables and wiring hooked right up.
I’ve been running that one trouble free since and I baby it, never run it hard.
I fabricated a stand for the original OB saving it in the corner of my garage in the event that I needed to pull parts off of it.
Now might be that time.
Lost sleep last night running it all thru my head. Another option I may have is to delete the oil pump and run a pre-mix like I’ve seen done with a lot of Yamaha’s and Evinrude’s . Not sure how to go about that with this and how to get around the computer and its warning light, alarm and rpm limiting system. I also looked up parts to see whats available. The oil pump assembly isn’t available but the sensor is. True I have the other engine to rob parts from too but the sensor is only $30 so I’d grab that if I repair it.

 

[Lt.Mike]

Gotten zero feedback but have been reading my repair and owners manuals.
Seems there is a flow sensor in the line buried out of sight behind the tank. That flow sensor is midway in the line between the tank and the pump. It has a screen that needs to be cleaned every 200hrs, mine has 500hrs and that screen was never cleaned.
Thinking the screen flows enough to provide oil up to about 1,800rpm but is clogged enough to restrict flow at higher rpms which is where the alarm went off. The flow sensor is the one part that is still available so I have one on order and am now at UPS’s mercy .
When it arrives I plan to remove the tank, dump and clean it and the lines, add new oil and bleed the air from the pump.
Fingers crossed this does the trick.

 

[seasick]

I can't say for Zukes but I can say that using a separate tank with premix on 2 stroke Yamis or Mercs can be asking for trouble. In some cases big time trouble.
First of all, both Yamis and Merc Optis use variable ratio oiling based on engine speed ( Actually throttle position, The OX66 Yamis use a lower oil ratio at idle of 40:1 and a higher one, 100:1 or so at speed. Using premix can result in too much oil and subsequent oil fouled plugs when idling or trolling and not enough oil at high revs
Engines like the Optis pump oil into multiple areas of the engine not just into the gas like old style motors. That can result in no oil in some critical areas.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Gotten zero feedback but have been reading my repair and owners manuals.

Thats good, they are of big help and you may do a search for user groups or the australian Suzuki forum and ask also there.
Your find with the oil filter is probably the culprit as it would restrict higher oil flow at higher rpm's.
Check there what seasick wrote above, oil injectors other than the one/s in aspiration system, if some are there then no premix!
Also his point of adaptive oiling is valid, i think to recall my carbed Yamaha 150 did the same and for that was the link arm from throttle lever to oiling system under the cowling. You may verify this too in your workshop manual, but if you have a lever from throttle mechanism to oiling system then i would expect that it's also for that, oil flow depending on rpm's.
Around 2000 hen i was working in the shipyard we sold many of those engines, but mostly 40HP ones and owners had many no-start condition troubles with them.
It may have been owners fault, however the amount of customers having troubles was far superior to the Yamahas we sold too.
However, nice to hear that yours run trouble free!
Chris

 

[Lt.Mike]

The owners manual specifically states to run a 50:1 premix in the main tank after periods of prolonged storage. That’s pretty much all my use for the last few years . Winter storage, spring striper run maybe once, once in the summer and then late fall for the fall striper run once maybe twice if I’m lucky.
Both the shop and owners manual direct you to run a premix when bleeding the pump as well. Been following this protocol for 10 years. One thing I’ve known about and careful with is the DT series Achilles heal, it’s chrome molly coated cylinder walls. The cylinder walls and pistons are different materials and heat up at different rates. One sure way to ruin one of these is to throttle down on a cold engine. Absolutely must let it warm up gently before reving it otherwise it’ll score a cylinder wall.
I’ve been babying it.
Been running the same plugs for 10 years so I did order a new set.

 

[seasick]

Running the motor with a 50:1 mix and with the oil injection system, is different than disabling the oil system and just running premix

 

[Lt.Mike]

Ok, time for a follow up.
With part in hand I removed the oil tank, line to and the sensor/filter.
The sensors filter was plugged as was the outlet on the bottom of the tank. I was surprised at how small the inner diameter was for the tanks outlet, about the diameter of a a pencil lead.
At the bottom of the tank was about a half cup of gelled oil. I would suggest a biannual cleaning of any 2 strokes oil tank to prevent this.
I cleaned the tank and sprayed carb cleaner thru the lines to the pump. I left the lines from the pump be.
With it all connected I removed covers and unbolted brackets holding the wiring that buried the oil pump allowing me to hang them out of the way so I could reach the pump. I added about a 3/4 tank of oil to give weight when the bleeder bolt was opened and that worked very well. With it bled I bolted it all back up and changed the plugs. Running it in the tank was positive as I got zero codes, and a smooth idle. With it idling I also reset the rev limiter. I took a sharpie and marked the level of oil on the tank for reference.
Took it out on the water Friday and it ran flawless.
On the downside I had one unrelated issue, the drain plug, a lever type I have hanging on a lanyard popped out on me as I was about a 1/4 mile off the beach.
I went to move after a drift and felt the boat struggling to get on plane, odd as it is a 225 on a 20’ boat. Went back and lifted the seat hatch to find the bilge filled to the tops of the batteries !
Jumped off the back and confirmed the plug was out. Borrowed a newer plug from the livewell, jumped back over and that one went in taking more effort. The other plug was worn out. Shame on me.
Ok the bilge pump didn’t kick on automatically because the float has been bad. I have a newer version of the same pump in 750gph to replace the 500 that’s there. That’s been waiting because of everything else that needs to be done. Shame on me again. Ok with it on manually it was pumping out with all the force of an 80 year old with prostate issues. Not good but it eventually got it done to the point the boat could plane.
Got back into the river and where I was able, between the rt35 bridge and treasure island for those who know the Manasquan, I gradually opened it up to full throttle for that short distance hitting 48mph on the gps.
Back on the trailer I pulled the plug and water flowed for quite some time and then again as I trailered out of the marina.
The pump “will” be replaced before I take it out again.
Back home I flushed it in the tank and checked the oil level, it had dropped about 3/4 to 1” indicating the oil pump is doing what it should. Feeling confident I can drop the premix in the fuel tank now.