I have a 12V issue that is making me scratch my head a lot. I have two batteries (along with selector switch)...and the batteries are brand new this season. I had an old interior cabin light (incandescent) that I replaced with an LED light (with lo-high switch). During my install the light was operating intermittently so I returned the light to WEST's and got a different one.......still experienced the same problem....light is working intermittently at both settings..........the batteries are fully charged, and I've tried the light when the engine is running putting out 13.5V....sometimes it works, often times it doesn't (I've checked all of the connections....and the leads at the light read 12V)..........once I expended my available time for the LED light project, I moved onto why the cigarette lighter socket was not working for my handheld light........I can't figure that out either......if I plug the light into my car, it works fine........if I plug it into the boat cigarette lighter socket, it does not work, and I've measured 12V from the socket. Again, I tried it several times, and a couple of times after the engine has run for awhile (putting out 13.5V) I'm hoping someone out there tells me some very simple/easy to remedy this. Thanks for the support.
12 volt DC Question
- Thread starter Rumford Grady
- Start date
Might want to check the ground wire to your light. 12v+ may check ok, but ground may be bad. Also jiggle the wires to see if you might have a bad or broken wire inside the insulation. Hope that will help.
enfish
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You need to measure the voltage when the lamp is plugged into the cigarette lighter, and also with the LED lamp turned on. Like scorpion says, sounds like a bad connection somewhere, either on the ground or supply side. It's possible to measure a full 12 volts when there is no load on the circuit, but as soon as a load is put on it (turning on a lamp), it can't draw enough current through a bad connection and the voltage drops.
Try replacing the accessory plug in. All plugs aren't created equal, in size that is. The common denominator for the light is wiring. Start over again and pay specific attention to the ground ... :?
I am leaning towards a bad ground connection somewhere. The suggestion to measure the voltage with the load connected is a good one. Also measure using the same ground that the device uses. if the voltage drops significantly when the device is powered up, move the ground connection of the voltage meter to a different ground. If the voltage now read normal, the ground circuit to the device is bad somewhere. To find it, you will have to test section by section. One of the more common spots is the ground buss on the fuse panel.
Good luck
Good luck
Rumford Grady, Lots of good info so far. This is how I would troubleshoot your problem. Puts some clips on your light and go to the battery to eliminate the power source. Then go to your panel where the power comes from the battery and check it there. That will check the wiring from the battery to the panel and work your way through the circuit. When ever troubleshooting anything you must be eliminating something throughout the process or your wasting time. You could have something as simple as corrision on a fuse. good luck.
jaamm1 said:
Remeber that if there is no load on the circuit, you probably will see normal voltage even if there are corrosion issues. You have to turn things on and then check voltages.
seasick you are correct. By using the light to check each part of the circuit you will be providing the current demand on the circuit you desire. Once you locate the marginal circuit the light will cease to burn.
Your boat is more than old enough to start having wiring, panel, etc. issues with corrosion and the like. Hope you are a DIYer.
Wow! A lot of GREAT feedback. Thank you all for the guidance.....time to get to work troubleshooting.......after I catch some fall fish, of course. Tx.