Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom core is in!!!
It came out great......smooth, no bubbles or creases.....it should last many years
It came out great......smooth, no bubbles or creases.....it should last many years
1981 Mako 17 Project - 7/15/13 update
- Thread starter gw204
- Start date
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom core is in!!!
Great job Brian, but, what about the ice making machine?
Great job Brian, but, what about the ice making machine?
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom core is in!!!
Richie,
I have to give credit to Shine over at Bateau2 for the success of the outer skin. It was his recommendation to use the melamine to mold it.
NEM,
Icemaker? What will I need one of those for? This boat is going to be too pretty to fish out of. :lol:
Richie,
I have to give credit to Shine over at Bateau2 for the success of the outer skin. It was his recommendation to use the melamine to mold it.
NEM,
Icemaker? What will I need one of those for? This boat is going to be too pretty to fish out of. :lol:
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom core is in!!!
Yup...those guys know their stuff when it comes to rebuilding boats......his Aquasport tutorial is a great reference library. Rebuilding an entirely cut out transom is no easy feat.....this one should come out great with the way you're doing it.
gw204 said:
Yup...those guys know their stuff when it comes to rebuilding boats......his Aquasport tutorial is a great reference library. Rebuilding an entirely cut out transom is no easy feat.....this one should come out great with the way you're doing it.
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom core is in!!!
I also got a lot of ideas and lot of help from Shine and the rest of the gang there. I highly recommend them .
I also got a lot of ideas and lot of help from Shine and the rest of the gang there. I highly recommend them .
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom core is in!!!
For the margaritas you gonna be making on board :mrgreen:
gw204 said:
For the margaritas you gonna be making on board :mrgreen:
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom is done!!!
Transom is done!!! Well, structurally it's done. I still need to make it pretty.
Spent about an hour last Thursday afternoon sanding the runs down on the core and then precut all of my my glass for the inner skin. Plan was to spend Friday AM doing the final grind on the hull, clean things up and then lay up the inner skin. I was originally going to do two layers of 1808, two layers of 1708 and a finish layer of 1.5 oz. mat, but decided to leave out one of the layers of 1708 to try and keep some weight down. I looked at a bunch of other transom projects by people a lot more experienced than me, who where using heavier motors and they didn't use that much glass, so I figured I didn't have to either.
It took me about 6 hours to lay the fillets and do the actual layup. What can I say...I work slow.
I let it cure for about 36 hours before cutting the unfinished edge off the top. Got my first good look at the camber of the new transom. I think it's going to look great! Whether or not it floats right is another story... :?:
The whole thing isn't perfect, but I am pretty happy given it's my first one. I don't think I was thorough enough with the bubble roller when I put down the final layer of mat because it looks like there are a bunch of tiny bubbles, but oh well. I plan to grind/sand that layer anyway to make the bilge nice and smooth...
Transom is done!!! Well, structurally it's done. I still need to make it pretty.
Spent about an hour last Thursday afternoon sanding the runs down on the core and then precut all of my my glass for the inner skin. Plan was to spend Friday AM doing the final grind on the hull, clean things up and then lay up the inner skin. I was originally going to do two layers of 1808, two layers of 1708 and a finish layer of 1.5 oz. mat, but decided to leave out one of the layers of 1708 to try and keep some weight down. I looked at a bunch of other transom projects by people a lot more experienced than me, who where using heavier motors and they didn't use that much glass, so I figured I didn't have to either.
It took me about 6 hours to lay the fillets and do the actual layup. What can I say...I work slow.
I let it cure for about 36 hours before cutting the unfinished edge off the top. Got my first good look at the camber of the new transom. I think it's going to look great! Whether or not it floats right is another story... :?: The whole thing isn't perfect, but I am pretty happy given it's my first one. I don't think I was thorough enough with the bubble roller when I put down the final layer of mat because it looks like there are a bunch of tiny bubbles, but oh well. I plan to grind/sand that layer anyway to make the bilge nice and smooth...
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom is done!!!
Looks pretty darn good to me......I say she floats!
Looks pretty darn good to me......I say she floats!
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom is done!!!
Same thing here
Brian, how is the "Formula" project going?
richie rich said:
Same thing here
Brian, how is the "Formula" project going?
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom is done!!!
Thanks guys.
I know she will float. I'm more worried about if she will sit right once there's a bracket and outboard hanging off that transom.
No real progress on the Formula to report. I sold the bracket I bought, but should be getting the new one soon.
Thanks guys.
I know she will float. I'm more worried about if she will sit right once there's a bracket and outboard hanging off that transom.
No real progress on the Formula to report. I sold the bracket I bought, but should be getting the new one soon.
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom is done!!!
I've seen some of those Mako's rebuilds with the bracket...she will sit a little lower, but if you're getting a full floatation bracket like a Hermco and stick with a lighter weight 2 stroke, it may wind up being just fine. Its the 17 foot length that limits your floatation.....most brackets are on hulls 20 feet and up. How close were the scuppers to the waterline before you started?
gw204 said:
I've seen some of those Mako's rebuilds with the bracket...she will sit a little lower, but if you're getting a full floatation bracket like a Hermco and stick with a lighter weight 2 stroke, it may wind up being just fine. Its the 17 foot length that limits your floatation.....most brackets are on hulls 20 feet and up. How close were the scuppers to the waterline before you started?
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom is done!!!
I never got to see the boat floating in stock form. The transom had already been removed when I got it.
I'm going to be building my own fiberglass bracket much like the Hermco one, but with no platforms. The console is being pushed forward 6" to 8" and the batteries will be moved out of the rear and put under the console to shift some weight forward. Once the boat is mostly put back together (before any finish work), I'll temporarily mount the bracket and do a float test to determine how much engine weight she'll handle. I'd really like to be able to stick a Suzuki DF90 on there, but the 261 lb. Yamaha 90 2-stroke will probably be my best bet. If it will support it, I might go with a V4 Yamaha 2-stroke. I don't need it to be speed demon, but that would be a nice bonus.
I never got to see the boat floating in stock form. The transom had already been removed when I got it.
I'm going to be building my own fiberglass bracket much like the Hermco one, but with no platforms. The console is being pushed forward 6" to 8" and the batteries will be moved out of the rear and put under the console to shift some weight forward. Once the boat is mostly put back together (before any finish work), I'll temporarily mount the bracket and do a float test to determine how much engine weight she'll handle. I'd really like to be able to stick a Suzuki DF90 on there, but the 261 lb. Yamaha 90 2-stroke will probably be my best bet. If it will support it, I might go with a V4 Yamaha 2-stroke. I don't need it to be speed demon, but that would be a nice bonus.
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom is done!!!
Have you thought about one of these instead? Much less of a cantilevered effect.
http://www.bobsmachine.com/Products/jac ... rtible.cfm
Have you thought about one of these instead? Much less of a cantilevered effect.
http://www.bobsmachine.com/Products/jac ... rtible.cfm
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom is done!!!
That is certainly an option. I think I would need at least 10+" of setback in order for the throttle and shift cable to not bind though. Was looking at the CMC jackplates about a week ago. We'll see.
I should probably revamp my plan so it includes a float test before spend any time building a bracket or bolting anything to the transom.
That is certainly an option. I think I would need at least 10+" of setback in order for the throttle and shift cable to not bind though. Was looking at the CMC jackplates about a week ago. We'll see.
I should probably revamp my plan so it includes a float test before spend any time building a bracket or bolting anything to the transom.
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom is done!!!
Sounds like a good plan.....float it and have 2 large people sit right on the edge of the transom and see how she sits....may save you a lot of work and $$$ in the long run and you'll know for sure.
gw204 said:
Sounds like a good plan.....float it and have 2 large people sit right on the edge of the transom and see how she sits....may save you a lot of work and $$$ in the long run and you'll know for sure.
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom is done!!!
I finally got tired of moving the aft section of the Mako around in the garage, so I put the grinder to it last night.
The original transom bowed out slightly at the top, so I had to cut a straight line across the gunwale to match up with the new transom (you can't really tell I did that in the pics). Due to this, and the fact that the new transom is at least 1/4" thicker than the old, I also had to cut out the center section where the motor mounted. After cutting off some chunks of bedding compound, I dropped it in place. There is still a bit of fine tuning needed to perfect the fit before I can glass it in (which I am no where near ready to do), but at least it's off the floor and out of the way.
Eventually I am going to fill in the recessed well in the floor and raise the scuppers up in hopes of maintaining the self bailing capability.
It's starting to look like a boat again!
I finally got tired of moving the aft section of the Mako around in the garage, so I put the grinder to it last night.
The original transom bowed out slightly at the top, so I had to cut a straight line across the gunwale to match up with the new transom (you can't really tell I did that in the pics). Due to this, and the fact that the new transom is at least 1/4" thicker than the old, I also had to cut out the center section where the motor mounted. After cutting off some chunks of bedding compound, I dropped it in place. There is still a bit of fine tuning needed to perfect the fit before I can glass it in (which I am no where near ready to do), but at least it's off the floor and out of the way.
Eventually I am going to fill in the recessed well in the floor and raise the scuppers up in hopes of maintaining the self bailing capability.
It's starting to look like a boat again!
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom is done!!!
The lines look pretty clean...like a factory original design.....it will look great when faired in...nice work B
The lines look pretty clean...like a factory original design.....it will look great when faired in...nice work B
Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - transom is done!!!
I found a bit of bad wood in the center stringer, so I went ahead and cut out a bit more of the floor to gain better access for additional exploratory surgery. This allowed me to pull the skin off of another 12" or so the stringer. This time I found much better wood. There still looks to be a small amount of rot at the very bottom and a bit of surface mold at the top where the glass didn't maintain contact. I didn't detect any moisture, so I think it's good enough to scarf a new piece on to.
I am now debating removing the section of floor outlined in blue. That would allow me to extend the stringers in such a way that they would support the entire aft portion of deck instead of just the last 18" or so. That section of deck is also plywood cored and seems to have a good bit of weight to it.
I found a bit of bad wood in the center stringer, so I went ahead and cut out a bit more of the floor to gain better access for additional exploratory surgery. This allowed me to pull the skin off of another 12" or so the stringer. This time I found much better wood. There still looks to be a small amount of rot at the very bottom and a bit of surface mold at the top where the glass didn't maintain contact. I didn't detect any moisture, so I think it's good enough to scarf a new piece on to.
I am now debating removing the section of floor outlined in blue. That would allow me to extend the stringers in such a way that they would support the entire aft portion of deck instead of just the last 18" or so. That section of deck is also plywood cored and seems to have a good bit of weight to it.