I purchased this boat new in 1983, has 2 90HP Johnsons hanging on it. I used it in the gulf off Galveston for 3-4 years then moved to Indiana and ran it in Freshwater for another 6-8 years then started a business and put it in a heated building and stored it from 1998 to present. I am 74 years young and decided to pull it out and get a few more trips on the water with it before the big guy in the sky punches my clock. Ive pounded on the transom and cant tell whats under the fiberglass. I live in East Central Indiana and would like to know how to make sure I dont drop my two johnsons in the lake this spring. When I was a kid sitting in the back of a 16 foot fiberglass boat on the Intercoastal canal in Galveston we were pulling a small shrimp net and pulled the transom off and ended up in the water. Lost my wallet and glasses and really dont need to experience that again. You guy know your stuff, help an old man out please.
1982 204 Overnighter
- Thread starter mikekc44
- Start date
Sounds like a neat old boat. Would love a few pictures if you're up to it. Unless water somehow made its way into the transom and it was already rotten when you stored the boat my bet would be it's solid.
Also there's several videos on YouTube on how to sound a transom with a ball peen hammer. Watch a few and then give it a try.
Also there's several videos on YouTube on how to sound a transom with a ball peen hammer. Watch a few and then give it a try.
PointedRose
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2021
- Messages
- 646
- Reaction score
- 196
- Points
- 43
- Location
- San Francisco
- Model
- Overnighter
You can tilt the engines up and lean on them to see if there is any flex to the transom. Also look inside at the mounting bolts for any signs of cracking, wear or delamination to the fiberglass. Enjoy the few more trips!
efx
Well-Known Member
The best thing to do is apply presure to one engine anti ventilation plate and see if there is any movement of the transom. The transom should be rock solid and not budge 1/8”. What you are doing is loading up the transom with the lever action of the engine. A small force on the plate equals a big for on the transom and it should handle it. Also, like said above look for engine bolts pinching the inside of the transom face. Since those engines have been sitting, get them to a good mechanic and have them cleaned up and tuned up. Nothing more reliable than an omc looper. The mechanic will be able to review the transom. And do yourself a favor, store the boat in a marina rack that launches ,retrieves and cleans the boat for you.
I found some showing using the hammer, Im in the philippines now but when I get back Ill try that. Thanks
I have an 82 overnighter. i Just finished rebuilding the transom. Tell tale signs were rust stains from the hold down u-bolts and fiberglass crazing on the inner hull where the motor mounts. I knew I was in trouble when I mounted a new transducer and the screws would not hold.
when I ripped it apart, the woos was totally saturated from the bottom up. a Good portion of the old plywood disintegrated but the same amount was still pretty strong, thus I struggled to get it apart.
i used OKUMA plywood to rebuild it, Coosa cost too much and I figured if it last this long, I would surly get another 20 years. 4 gallons of epoxy, and 6 layers of 1708 biaxel mat, , and several coats of fairing and it’s finally done except for painting below the water line. ( ran out of warm days)
I’ll send some pics if you want
if you have concern, I would drill a couple of 1/4 inch holes below the waterline. Don’t go all the way through. see if the saw dust is wet. If not, you can epoxy dowel rods back into the holes, a little fiberglass mat and some paint and you will be back in the water.
good luck!,
when I ripped it apart, the woos was totally saturated from the bottom up. a Good portion of the old plywood disintegrated but the same amount was still pretty strong, thus I struggled to get it apart.
i used OKUMA plywood to rebuild it, Coosa cost too much and I figured if it last this long, I would surly get another 20 years. 4 gallons of epoxy, and 6 layers of 1708 biaxel mat, , and several coats of fairing and it’s finally done except for painting below the water line. ( ran out of warm days)
I’ll send some pics if you want
if you have concern, I would drill a couple of 1/4 inch holes below the waterline. Don’t go all the way through. see if the saw dust is wet. If not, you can epoxy dowel rods back into the holes, a little fiberglass mat and some paint and you will be back in the water.
good luck!,
Did you mean Okume plywood?
What horsepower motor do you mounted and how thick, coring and faces is your new transom?
What horsepower motor do you mounted and how thick, coring and faces is your new transom?
11 ply okume, 2 each 3/4 “ pieces, ( same as what I took out) , one new 1708 inner skin and a layer of 1708 between sheets of plywood, all tabbed into the remaining perimeter of existing glass.
I have a 175 Johnson ocean pro
I would love to see pictures, I used the hammer thing on mine and it sounds sound ??? but Im still a little uneasy, Uneasy about the aluminum fuel tank also because it is still the orig tank. I keep thinking I will pop up the round cover and smell gas but I never have.
Thanks for the suggestions, I have looked into a slip at a marina on brookville res, they have the slips with the air filled pontoons that put you boat up out of the water when not being used, they run $5000 a year tho and Im not sure I want to do that much. Im still thinking strongly about that tho.