So I'm in Washington State and looking to have my transom done. I'm getting estimates all over the place. What do you think is a reasonable price? If anyone has any recs for someone that does a good job in the greater Port Townsend-Seattle area that would be great as well.
1990 204c Overnighter Transom Cost
- Thread starter johnsonericm
- Start date
What kind of prices are you seeing for the estimate and how many hours are they estimating and what/how are they redoing the transom? I'm not suprised you're seeing varying estimates - for any number of reasons. This is to be expected with this type of work as there is more than one way to do this. No such thing as "book rate" or "flat rate" when it comes to this. Have the guys seen the boat in person, or is this all over the phone? Even tougher to compare that way.
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The last guy I spoke to said it would be in the neighborhood of $7500. He explained his process as using "full glass" in areas where there are through bolts like for the engine and kicker bracket and then plywood elsewhere. He went on to explain that he is not a great "finish guy" but that he would "get it down to 400 grit but there would be some bubbles". I didn't bother to have him come look. Other guys have quoted around $3000 but don't not seem too professional.
I was assuming the process would be removing the aft skin, replacing all of the wood in one piece and then re-glassing with a better solution for the cap per the millions of threads on the subject. The threads I've seen that mention cost are substantially lower than $7500 but they are not recent. I did not ask about hours but will do so moving forward.
Do you happen to have a picture of the stern of your boat? Or a link to a picture of one similar/same model?
"Fiberglass repair" and "finish gelcoat" are definitely two different things. It's kinda like a mechanic vs a painter. Some places have both on hand - some do not. I actually like, based on what you wrote anyways, what your first guy is saying. Does sound like a high estimate. But, yes, skinning the transom is a good way to do it - which also alleviates much of the cosmetic work. If you're OK with the "cut area" being not as nice as the rest (but functionally sound), this might be a way to go and talk to him about a more accurate quote. For me, on a 30-year old boat, I'd be more interested in function over aesthetics. Not that I'd want it to look "junky", but it won't be hard to get it back to (aesthetically) 90% of what it is now.
I doubt you'll find a reputable person quoting less than $3K, though.
"Fiberglass repair" and "finish gelcoat" are definitely two different things. It's kinda like a mechanic vs a painter. Some places have both on hand - some do not. I actually like, based on what you wrote anyways, what your first guy is saying. Does sound like a high estimate. But, yes, skinning the transom is a good way to do it - which also alleviates much of the cosmetic work. If you're OK with the "cut area" being not as nice as the rest (but functionally sound), this might be a way to go and talk to him about a more accurate quote. For me, on a 30-year old boat, I'd be more interested in function over aesthetics. Not that I'd want it to look "junky", but it won't be hard to get it back to (aesthetically) 90% of what it is now.
I doubt you'll find a reputable person quoting less than $3K, though.
There's a guy on THT that posts under the username "commuter boats". His name is Gerald and has posted pics of some pretty impressive stuff. Pretty sure he's in Alaska but not sure where. Look him up.
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Transom jobs for a 20 footer would be about $5k done professionally.
Is the transom on your boat flat and straight across or is there a curve or multiple angles?
I would be careful of anyone removing the aft skin. I've seen bad outcomes that way. Guys assume you just glass in a big flat piece of plywood.
They cut all the original strength of the edges and then realize that the can't wrap new glass around the outside edges.
The better way is to remove the aft part of the cap and motor well, remove the inside skin and replace the wood, matching the contours of the existing outer skin.
You never cut the outside hull so it stays original. This gets you access to the stringers at the stern which may need some TLC also.
Or you can hollow out the wood and pour a new one with CarbonCore(aka Arjay).
I poured a new transom myself on a Wellcraft V20. I removed the rear cap and cleaned out all the wood but the shortcut would be to chainsaw out all the wood you can reach from the top edge of motor cutout and pour a transom.
Transom part1
Transom part2
Is the transom on your boat flat and straight across or is there a curve or multiple angles?
I would be careful of anyone removing the aft skin. I've seen bad outcomes that way. Guys assume you just glass in a big flat piece of plywood.
They cut all the original strength of the edges and then realize that the can't wrap new glass around the outside edges.
The better way is to remove the aft part of the cap and motor well, remove the inside skin and replace the wood, matching the contours of the existing outer skin.
You never cut the outside hull so it stays original. This gets you access to the stringers at the stern which may need some TLC also.
Or you can hollow out the wood and pour a new one with CarbonCore(aka Arjay).
I poured a new transom myself on a Wellcraft V20. I removed the rear cap and cleaned out all the wood but the shortcut would be to chainsaw out all the wood you can reach from the top edge of motor cutout and pour a transom.
Transom part1
Transom part2