1999 Bimini 306 - replacing fuel tanks.

[IFish4Tuna]

Lesson learned. The fuel tanks need to be rinsed regularly, and the deck plate o-ring seals are prone to leaking. I have had this boat since 2005. About 5 years ago, I pulled the deck plate to have a look underneath. I saw A LOT of white jelly. Sadly - I thought that jelly was a protective lubricant on the fittings. So I left it in place, and forgot to / but meant to call GW about it to confirm. This past week I was replacing the o-rings because the plates were popping up while driving, and discovered how stupid I was, that it was just a bunch of salt build up. Probably a combination of salt water, bacteria. I cleared away the salt build up by the hand full, and threw it overboard. In the process I began to smell gas. What i discovered after cleaning thing up a bit more was a 1/2 inch by 3/4 inch hole at the line feeding the engines. Of course the reat tank (the one w/ the hole) was full. I ahve not yet tried to clean the front tank for fear of putting another hold in that tank also.

A few questions....

1. How much money should I expect to spend to have both 150 Gallon tanks replaced.
2. What do you do with 200 Gallons of fuel?
3. Do you re-use the fuel? If so do you pump it mechanically back into the new tanks?
4. I have seen some other posts about where to get tanks including from the original manufacturer (RDS).
5. I expect to need to remove the seat/leaning post to get access to the access panels. I don't know how that is secured to the deck. Any pointers would be helpful.

I am very disappointed with my self because I take such good care of this boat, but the tank rinsing is something that never occurred to me. I now see that in the manual that it needs to be done at least 2x per year.

I keep the boat on a mooring, so there is some pretty good rocking as boats go by. Today I tried patching it with J&DWeld. I managed to get the hole covered, but gas is continuing to weep through the patch. I have not yet turned the batteries on since the discover/hole formed. I am hoping to be a able to run the boat on a calm day at high RPMs to get the fuel way down below the top of the aluminum.

Any pointers on this process are welcome. See pictures

Also - any recommendations on a marine shop that can do this work in the sea coast New Hampshire area. I have a feeling this may be a bigger job than I am capable of.

Ed

 

[wrxhoon]

If I was you I would repair the tank with this stuff , use all the fuel and then replace the tank. I wouldn't rely on a permanent fix, some people do .

 

[IFish4Tuna]

Thanks. I used the J&D weld. See photos. It has trouble sticking to the moist areas where gas keeps seeping through due to the tank being so full. I may just need to run it to get the fuel down.

 

[Ky Grady]

If it's sitting on a mooring and been leaking awhile, I'd run a lot of freshwater down into the bilge to dilute the gas before your automatic bilge pump kicks on with nothing but gas down there. It's a large project to replace them, I went through it on my 228 a year or so ago. Your tanks are also larger than mine, 56 was easy, but the 92 could've been a handful without help.

 

[IFish4Tuna]

Thanks good idea. I am going to siphon about 20-25 gallons to bring the level lower, and see if I can improve the patch/weeping before letting air out even further and turning batteries on to begin running fuel.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I would get some gas out of the tank. Use the fuel line to the motor after the water separator filter. Pump the ball and fill some 5 gallon cans. Use it in your cars.

get the level down so you aren't leaking. Then when you haul the boat drain the rest of the fuel the same way...use it...give it away...your tank project is going to take a while.

 

[IFish4Tuna]

good idea on where to drain. I was going to siphon from the fill hole, but I like the filtered approach better, and yes I think my season is over. Got my tank specs from GW today. From dimensions looks like they should come out without having to cut beyond the floor sections, but I'm sure a 2 (or 3) person job. Pulling the leaning post will be a mission of it's own also.

 

[kirk a]

I replaced a 120 gallon tank on a Mako a few years back. Tank cost was approx $10 per gallon. I used Sunshine Marine Tanks in FL. Process was pretty straightforward. Provide them a measured drawing of the tank needed, and a few weeks later it was shipped to me. The removal and Installation of tanks was not a lot of fun, but not overly difficult. Not sure what the access is on the Bimini, which is a wild card. I took the time to redo the fuel lines from the fill to the tank, and from the tank to the Racor filter.

 

[IFish4Tuna]

I replaced a 120 gallon tank on a Mako a few years back. Tank cost was approx $10 per gallon. I used Sunshine Marine Tanks in FL. Process was pretty straightforward. Provide them a measured drawing of the tank needed, and a few weeks later it was shipped to me. The removal and Installation of tanks was not a lot of fun, but not overly difficult. Not sure what the access is on the Bimini, which is a wild card. I took the time to redo the fuel lines from the fill to the tank, and from the tank to the Racor filter.

encouraging thank you. Still working on fuel removal to get the volume down for better patching. Damn work keeps getting in the way.

 

[IFish4Tuna]

For the record, I was unable to siphon fuel from either the tank fill, nor the engine. Burning fuel via cruise. What a shame. Too bad I could not distribute to others.

 

[leeccoll]

It's a good excuse to go fishing

I had to do the exact same thing before I replaced an old 92 gallon tank. Last 8 gallons I had a local company pump out. I admittedly am not a fan of using tools around gas.

 

[SkunkBoat]

For the record, I was unable to siphon fuel from either the tank fill, nor the engine. Burning fuel via cruise. What a shame. Too bad I could not distribute to others.

I'm surprised. You can' t get flow from pumping the bulb but you can run an engine? An inline universal electric fuel pump is $20

 

[go fish]

I replaced the tanks on my 306 while on a boat lift. I had a helper and have never done this before.

ran tanks low and pumped out rest. Only about 10 gallons and I saved that to put back in tanks to prime and get to fuel dock.

leaning post has to come up and it is heavy. Remove Hatch cover. poly block wedges hold tank in place and need to be removed. Front Tank would not come out because of deck. Tanks are installed at factory before deck is set in place. Had to remove part of the bulkhead between the 2 tanks. Did not have to cut all of it so it will give you some area to glass to.

I was just about finish and I dropped a screw and it went between the tank and floor. I am not sure what most people would have done, but I could see this causing an issue in the future. So, I did what I had to do. I removed all the wedges and pulled tank again to find that screw. Removed screw and reset. Hooked up lines, install hatch and leaning post. If I had to estimate the time it took us, it was about 8-9 hours.

 

[drbatts]

I'm surprised. You can' t get flow from pumping the bulb but you can run an engine? An inline universal electric fuel pump is $20

You cannot use the primer balls and siphon the fuel out of the tanks via the fuel lines. I tried it to once without success. Get a portable gas pump, unscrew the sender and feed the hose down into the tank. you can also try try attaching the intake hose on the pump to a piece of pipe to get it into the lowest part of the tank.

Check with the manufacturer of the tanks, they probably have the dimensions on file and can just build you new tanks. Some people with have the new tanks coated with coal tar epoxy before installation too.

 

[SkunkBoat]

You cannot use the primer balls and siphon the fuel out of the tanks via the fuel lines. I tried it to once without success. Get a portable gas pump, unscrew the sender and feed the hose down into the tank. you can also try try attaching the intake hose on the pump to a piece of pipe to get it into the lowest part of the tank.

Check with the manufacturer of the tanks, they probably have the dimensions on file and can just build you new tanks. Some people with have the new tanks coated with coal tar epoxy before installation too.

I did it before on a 60 gal tank, boat on trailer, end of hose below top of tank, flowed thru the filter/water separator and out no problem.
Just thinking...I also did not have an anti-siphon valve in the fuel pickup...

 

[IFish4Tuna]

I replaced the tanks on my 306 while on a boat lift. I had a helper and have never done this before.

ran tanks low and pumped out rest. Only about 10 gallons and I saved that to put back in tanks to prime and get to fuel dock.

leaning post has to come up and it is heavy. Remove Hatch cover. poly block wedges hold tank in place and need to be removed. Front Tank would not come out because of deck. Tanks are installed at factory before deck is set in place. Had to remove part of the bulkhead between the 2 tanks. Did not have to cut all of it so it will give you some area to glass to.

I was just about finish and I dropped a screw and it went between the tank and floor. I am not sure what most people would have done, but I could see this causing an issue in the future. So, I did what I had to do. I removed all the wedges and pulled tank again to find that screw. Removed screw and reset. Hooked up lines, install hatch and leaning post. If I had to estimate the time it took us, it was about 8-9 hours.

This is encouraging. Thanks. I am in the process of just using the fuel to get it low enough for haul & next steps. Damn fuel goes fast when you don't want it to and takes too long when for it's for this. Of course both tanks were full when discovered. DId you replace in and out hoses? If so how was it getting to the fill lines.

 

[go fish]

This is encouraging. Thanks. I am in the process of just using the fuel to get it low enough for haul & next steps. Damn fuel goes fast when you don't want it to and takes too long when for it's for this. Of course both tanks were full when discovered. DId you replace in and out hoses? If so how was it getting to the fill lines.

I replace everything fuel related. It was a tight to replace fill hoses and fuel inlets. the deck was not in the way of tank removal. It was a glassed in bulkhead divider.

 

[IFish4Tuna]

I replace everything fuel related. It was a tight to replace fill hoses and fuel inlets. the deck was not in the way of tank removal. It was a glassed in bulkhead divider.

Who did you order tanks through? I just got price quote from original manufacturer. Florida Marine Tanks. I nearly fell out of my chair. 5600 + freight.

 

[blindmullet]

Take a look at mattson and company. You will see his ads in a few fishing magazines. He did the tank on my Mako and the bracket on my Grady. He has been building tanks for over 30 years. This won't be a production operation. He can also ship anywhere.

 

[IFish4Tuna]

@blindmullet thanks for your response 1/2 the price. And Colin was great to talk to.