1999 yamaha 200 hpdi-question

[ray leonard]

considering 200 h.p. hpdi yamaha for purchase.manufactured 11-99.is there anything to pay special attention to when going over motor ?will start out with a compression check.buying from a private seller n he claims it runs fine.and lastly would u consider this motor a good fit on a 91 grady seafarer with full transom n bracket ?boat came with 225 hp when sold new.seller is asking 4500 for motor with controls,alum prop,tank n 2 digital yamaha guages.any suggestions greatly appreciated

 

[Marty grady 272]

Have the motor checked out by a competent Yamaha service Tech. I replaced OX 66 200 hp motors with 200 hp HPDIs and got much better performance out of them. My boat is faster and more fuel efficient than a friends 272 with the OX 225 motors. What you may loose it top end you will make up for in economy (both oil and gas)

 

[ray leonard]

thanks for reply marty

 

[fishingFINattic]

The motor will be a year 2000 as they did not produce them in 1999.

I think you would be happy with that as a replacement.

I have twin 200hp HPDI's and they are awesome, the only bad side is the fuel has to be clean - so filter change out becomes important!

I replace all of the filters myself (four each motor)

Good luck!

Tim

 

[ray leonard]

thanks for reply tim,how much are the filters from yamaha ?would u consider them easy to change ?

 

[tilewave]

yes the motors were produced in 1999. my 200 hpdi,s original to my 2001 265 express have a sticker on them stating they were produced in 11/99 also.

 

[seasick]

The motor will be a year 2000 as they did not produce them in 1999.

I think you would be happy with that as a replacement.

I have twin 200hp HPDI's and they are awesome, the only bad side is the fuel has to be clean - so filter change out becomes important!

I replace all of the filters myself (four each motor)

Good luck!

Tim

Many model year 2000s, were MANUFACTURED in 1999.

 

[fishingFINattic]

I am aware that many model year 2000 HPDI's we manufactured in 1999 - I was looking to correct the OP with his title of "1999 HPDI"

There was not a HPDI production run in model year in 1999 - period.

I have one of the early HPDI's manufactured in 1999 and it is still a model year 2000.

I just didnt want the OP trying to buy parts etc for a year that didnt exist.

Tim

 

[ray leonard]

thanks for all reply's.picked up motor n it runs well,gettin a alarm when i run it on shallow drive.long steady alarm is this normal ?

 

[seasick]

thanks for all reply's.picked up motor n it runs well,gettin a alarm when i run it on shallow drive.long steady alarm is this normal ?

No, alarm is not normal. I don't fully understand what conditions cause the alarm but the only audible alarm while running is an overheat alarm. If it only alarms at low revs, it is most likely a bad water pump or a stuck open poppet valve.
It is not advisable to run the motor if it overheats.

 

[Desperado]

The oil level in the tank under the cowls tend to stick on mine while idling around. Just pull them out and work the float up and down a little.

 

[ray leonard]

thanks for all replys,gently ran a wire up pisser tube n broke a partial clog of dirt free.seems to have a better st ream now.probably not a bad idea to keep wire on board in case of a clog while out

 

[ray leonard]

thanks for reply seasick,is poppet vavle the thermostat ?

 

[seasick]

thanks for reply seasick,is poppet vavle the thermostat ?

No, the poppet is a different part. It is easy to get to and replace. You can try cleaning it first but when you take it apart, note the order and orientation of the internal parts.
Refer to a parts diagram for the valves location.
FYI, a blocked pisser hole will not affect engine cooling at all, so clearing it didn't help your overheat condition.

 

[ray leonard]

thanks for reply seasick.noticed 1 thermostat {head} was hotter then the other.removed pink wire from sensor on hot side thermostat n alarm turned off.replaced thermostat n most peps i've spoken with feel that will do it.

 

[seasick]

thanks for reply seasick.noticed 1 thermostat {head} was hotter then the other.removed pink wire from sensor on hot side thermostat n alarm turned off.replaced thermostat n most peps i've spoken with feel that will do it.

The pink wire connects the thermo sensor. The thermo sensors ( one for each bank) close when the temp goes above about 180 degrees or so indicating an overheat condition. Since the alarm stopped when you removed the wire, that side was the source of the alarm, an overheat on that bank. The usual step after that doscovery would be to open the t-stat and inspect the water chambers as well as test the t-stat. Since replacing it seems to have eliminated the alarm condition, I wooud think that everything should be OK.
Nice work

 

[BobP]

You should be able to place your hand on either head by plugs after a run with engine off and not be burned by it.

The so called poppet is behind the HT coil assembly panel, and behind that, the computer, then when the computer comes out, down to the right side. It's just a plastic mushroom, spring, with a grommet type seal. SIM sells it as a kit with the housing.

T stats are in their usual position.

 

[ray leonard]

thanks for replys.one more question.when alarm was going off temp warning on lower left of tach,the one that comes on with intial turn of key then goes out on start up (digital tach) never came on when alarm was going off ?does motor have to reach a higher temp for this to show on tach ?manual suggests one of 3 things when alarm goes off overheating,oil level or oil filter.and to start with overheating first,yet tach was'nt showing overheat condition ?

 

[BobP]

Ray, I'd suggest you have a Yamaha tech check out the motor fully, takes nothing to wreck a motor with a $7K or more repair bill, they don't put out a whimper either beforehand letting you know.

As far as filters go, particlualry the VST filter, if you can handle tools you can do it yourself. First time is learning, lots of parts to drop and tiem wasted. Google or Utube for the slide show step by step, or someone here might have it. There are two ways to do it, I do it when the boat is in the driveway as I leave the tank on the boat, removing the tank is the other way probably less parts to drop more suited to dockside service I'd say. Opinions vary.

I reuse the VST filter after cleaning it, and go 3 yrs on the tank O ring. Just be sure not to pinch the O ring when putting the tank back together. The in line filter in the metal can I do every 2nd season, pricey little filter! I don't bother with the LP filter, changed it once in 6 yrs, but I have the Racor 2 micron first in line in the boat do those every season. There are two small inline oil filters, one at the boat mounted oil tank and one on the motor near the VST I do also, infrequently.
I did the water control valve once, as well as T stats. The water pump is anotehr DIYer job, take your time first time, get the slide show, otherwise you will be stuck when the woodrift key refuses to come out!
I find the HPDI well desigend as everything is servicable and can reach all w/o special tools, even though very well stuffed under cowl.
Your O2 sensor and mounting body is another one to remove and clean.