2001 Grady 265 Express Repower Info needed

Sketchywind

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One of my 2001 Yamaha HPDI Z200’s finally died with over 1500 hours, so I’m seriously considering a repower for my 2001 GW 265.
I’ve read some older posts about the Suzuki DF200 being a solid choice. Mercury V6 200 might be lighter for the 2001 GW265 scupper issue. Yamaha inline 200 could work too.
I thought about bolting on a used Z200 HPDI, but throwing on another questionable 20 year old motor doesn’t seem reliable or safe any longer.

1. What’s the best motor for repowering a 2001 GW 265 Express these days?
2. Do the scuppers need to be repositioned with either of those motors?
3. The aluminum transom plate is funky and I have some swelling of fiberglass along the top edge between the motor brackets. Any suggestions before the repower?
Thanks,
Frank
 

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I have 1000 hrs on my zuke DF200APs in 5 seasons. Only "trouble" was one weepy seal on a trim rod. I changed that myself rather than warranty service.
Scuppers are only under with 2 full tanks. With the new 4 stroke motors I really never need to fill both.
If you have not replaced the hoses to the scuppers, YOU NEED TO DO THAT. There is a post. I would also remind you that there are 4 other underwater holes in your boat.
Pull the motorwell brass tubes out and look at the transom wood. there is a post.
That aluminum cap always bends from the clamping of the motors. Its f'ing stupid.
Certainly redo the cap if you have the time while motors are off. I regret no doing that but it was "OK" and I did not have the time and weather to do it before the motors went on.


I would consider the merc 250s over the 200s since the weight is no issue

Get fly by wire. Don't be that guy....

heheh You need a new dash....
 
I’m repowering my 2006 360 express with new Yamahas. Dropping the hydraulics power assist steering and mechanical binnacle, cables and going to 100% fly by wire with joystick.

The fly by wire set up does reduce weight because the hydraulic hoses, mechanical cables, binnacle, steering and auto pilot pumps are being removed. I estimate it’s saving about 200lbs of net weight.

Remove the aluminum trim cap and inspect and repair the transom issue and install a new cap. Also inspect the transom stringer brackets for cracks, etc. inside the hull. My marina is replacing the transom cap with a composite cap that Grady now uses to eliminate corrosion issues. The aluminum cap in the pic is temporary while the new part is on order. Also, I’d inspect and perhaps replace the transom splash well drains. Your boat because of age may have leaking where the drain flange meets the gelcoat. Mine did.

I looked at Suzuki and Mercs as alternatives. The weights were similar, they were priced a little lower, but for me..finding reliable marine mechanics in my area to service them is tough. My marina is a Yamaha auth shop and gave me great pricing on the repower plus the trade on engines with 2,800 (mostly trolling) hours.

Good luck.
 
Great info!
I have 1000 hrs on my zuke DF200APs in 5 seasons. Only "trouble" was one weepy seal on a trim rod. I changed that myself rather than warranty service.
Scuppers are only under with 2 full tanks. With the new 4 stroke motors I really never need to fill both.
If you have not replaced the hoses to the scuppers, YOU NEED TO DO THAT. There is a post. I would also remind you that there are 4 other underwater holes in your boat.
Pull the motorwell brass tubes out and look at the transom wood. there is a post.
That aluminum cap always bends from the clamping of the motors. Its f'ing stupid.
Certainly redo the cap if you have the time while motors are off. I regret no doing that but it was "OK" and I did not have the time and weather to do it before the motors went on.


I would consider the merc 250s over the 200s since the weight is no issue

Get fly by wire. Don't be that guy....

heheh You need a new dash....
I’ve been following your “skunk boat” posts since 2015 when I bought my 2001 GW265 from Delaware to San Francisco. Thanks for all the good advice these years!
Good to hear the Zukes have been trouble free for 5 years. I have never run both tanks full, so the scuppers should be ok.
I’ll definitely have the shop replace those scupper hoses and check the other thru hole hose connections.
I had corroded and leaking brass tubes in the splash well. In a rookie move, I removed them in 2018, sealed inner surface with 3m 5200 and used PVC tubing instead of flaring a brass tube. Seem to be holding up pretty good, but brass is probably the better solution.
My aluminum cap needs to go and looking at fiberglass cap before new motors. I’m worried that the transom is a bit wet and will be an issue whenever I decide to sell. New buyers seem to really focus on the GW transom issue.
The Mercury V6 200/225 specs at 475# and V8 250 527#, comparably lighter than the Zukes. Will consider Mercury, but I have heard issues with all that electrical technology.
I did a mod to my Simrad dash and made a “urban” deterrent cover. We have a lot of street pirates in SF. That old aluminum dash has seen some serious action off the Delaware coast with the previous owner!
 

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I’m repowering my 2006 360 express with new Yamahas. Dropping the hydraulics power assist steering and mechanical binnacle, cables and going to 100% fly by wire with joystick.

The fly by wire set up does reduce weight because the hydraulic hoses, mechanical cables, binnacle, steering and auto pilot pumps are being removed. I estimate it’s saving about 200lbs of net weight.

Remove the aluminum trim cap and inspect and repair the transom issue and install a new cap. Also inspect the transom stringer brackets for cracks, etc. inside the hull. My marina is replacing the transom cap with a composite cap that Grady now uses to eliminate corrosion issues. The aluminum cap in the pic is temporary while the new part is on order. Also, I’d inspect and perhaps replace the transom splash well drains. Your boat because of age may have leaking where the drain flange meets the gelcoat. Mine did.

I looked at Suzuki and Mercs as alternatives. The weights were similar, they were priced a little lower, but for me..finding reliable marine mechanics in my area to service them is tough. My marina is a Yamaha auth shop and gave me great pricing on the repower plus the trade on engines with 2,800 (mostly trolling) hours.

Good luck.
Thanks for info!
I found the old brass splash well tubes were leaking into my transom. In a 2018 haul out, I removed the brass tubes and caulked the inners with 3M 5200 and sleeved with PVC tubes. Probably a rookie move with PVC, but I have brass tubes to replace them. I coated the inners with so much 5200, nothing is going to get in there.
Since my GW 265 is wet slipped and I don't have a trailer, I’m limited on a few motor shops with a haul out lift. I got a quote of $58K out the door for twin DF200 APX without the extra fiberglass work. I weighed the option of bolting on another old HPDI, but I’m done worrying about if I can make back to my slip.