Even at full tilt, the last few inches of my outboard are in the water. Anyone have suggestions for a particular paint to use to protect?
2006 225 Tournament 225 Yamaha OB - Outdrive in Water
- Thread starter HomeTeam
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Any anti-fouling that doesn't have copper in it will be fine. Hydrocoat Eco, for example. But anything will be fine for this application.
You could also try moving some gear further forward to counter the effect... or even adding some dead weight in the bow. Also, make sure you don't have water in the bilge.
You could also try moving some gear further forward to counter the effect... or even adding some dead weight in the bow. Also, make sure you don't have water in the bilge.
Mustang65fbk
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I can have the same problem on my 228 Seafarer, which I have on a mooring buoy from late June until early October or so, especially when the tank is over half full and there is a decent current. When it bobs back and forth attached to the buoy, the skeg on the outboard will be partially submerged or dip in and out of the water. I'm not sure if mounting the motor up higher would make any difference, I think my outboard is mounted from the second hole to the top, but it hasn't really annoyed me enough yet to do anything about it.
Thanks. I will look for Hydro Eco. Bilge is clear, and hadn't really thought about moving things forward. Not a lot i can do in that regard but will keep it in mind - thanks!
Thanks. My OB is mounted on an OB mount, not transom. I don't know whether there is an option to raise it but will check it out - thanks. I had thought there might be an adjustment for how far it tilts, but am not certain about this.
Mustang65fbk
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Your 225 Tournament with the transom bracket on it should be almost identical, or very similar to mine, where it has a few different holes in it on the transom bracket as well as multiple on the outboard itself. Here's a picture that I found on Google, it's a 2008 225 Tournament but should be the same as yours, of which if you look you can see two different mounting holes on the top of the bracket and the top one is where the upper outboard bolt goes through. If yours isn't mounted there, then you might consider moving it up, and if you look on the second picture, zoom in and you can see that the outboard flange has 4 different hole options for the top bolt as well as a "sliding" or elongated hole on the bottom for setting different outboard heights. If what I'm saying makes any sense? Either way, good luck and report back if you could. I'm curious about this same thing for my boat and if raising it up any would make a difference or not.
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I’ve had the same problem with my 1996 Seafarer with a 225 mounted on a bracket. This is a common problem with 4 stroke engines mounted on older Grady hulls .The engines are heavier than 2 strokes and cause the stern to sit lower in the water. I tried several of the above mentioned solution because my boat was in a slip year round and marine growth would build up on it and have to be cleaned periodically. The main problem was the growth blocking the cooling intake causing the engine to overheat due to insufficient flow. I dealt with it with anti fouling paint and a good scrub brush before each use. Finally just kept it in my driveway on a trailer. Let us know if you have any success
Don't move weight forward! I tried to correct the same problem on my previous '93 Tournament 22 by leaving my large cooler in the bow, full of water. The deck is close to level at rest, with a slight angle to the rear. The cooler tipped the deck to the bow, where there are NO DRAINS. It rained hard, and the more water that ran to the bow, the worse it got. Luckily, I drove past the slip and saw it bow down, and a friend and I stood on the stern seats, opened the transom gate, and it poured out the back.
This stuff helps a bit. The downside is that it comes in grey or black only. You need to do several coats, read the instructions It may take a few spray cans
I find that Trilux 33 in a can (not the spray) works OK also. I don't know if you can find a quart sized can. It comes in black, white, or blue It may seem expensive for a gallon but the cost for the Pettit aerosol spray cans can also add up in a hurry
The clear anti-fouling sprays for me have not worked at all!
I find that Trilux 33 in a can (not the spray) works OK also. I don't know if you can find a quart sized can. It comes in black, white, or blue It may seem expensive for a gallon but the cost for the Pettit aerosol spray cans can also add up in a hurry
The clear anti-fouling sprays for me have not worked at all!
SkunkBoat
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Raising the motor into higher holes effects the RPMs and could possibly cause the props to suck air.
When I had Yammy OX66s the Lower units touched the water. I tried Trilux, West Marine brand outboard antifouling spray, and Hydrocoat Eco. they all worked ok.
The Hydrocoat looks the best, kind of a satin finish. I still use that on my Zukes on the part of the bracket that stays wet.
The Zukes LUs stay out of the water so its not a problem now.
Zukes have a Tilt limit switch that adjusts the upper stop limit. (So you can prevent the motor cowling from hitting something)
Not sure what motor you have or if it has a limit setting of some sort.
When I had Yammy OX66s the Lower units touched the water. I tried Trilux, West Marine brand outboard antifouling spray, and Hydrocoat Eco. they all worked ok.
The Hydrocoat looks the best, kind of a satin finish. I still use that on my Zukes on the part of the bracket that stays wet.
The Zukes LUs stay out of the water so its not a problem now.
Zukes have a Tilt limit switch that adjusts the upper stop limit. (So you can prevent the motor cowling from hitting something)
Not sure what motor you have or if it has a limit setting of some sort.
Yes, definitely don't move weight if it negates the slight bow high angle of the deck. But there's a possibility that some weight could be moved forward if the boat is currently MORE bow high than it should be. Moving weight is an option - but it depends on where you're starting at.
Home Team... you didn't mention if this is a new problem or has it always been that way (and how long is "always")?
What type of OB mount do you have? Is it a hollow type mount with an inspection port and drain plug? If so, check for water inside it.
What type of OB mount do you have? Is it a hollow type mount with an inspection port and drain plug? If so, check for water inside it.
Mustang65fbk
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It's not a huge issue for me, but it would be nice to prevent it, if possible. That being said, I pretty much have to have the boat in the water for 6-8 weeks before any noticeable seaweed or gunk starts to build up around the boat or on the skeg of the outboard. It's not a huge deal or anything for me, more just an inconvenience, since I typically only have my boat on a mooring buoy for maybe 4 months out of the year at most. But for those that have their boats in the water year round then I could definitely see it as being more of a nuisance.
I’ve got the same issue and paint the bottom part of the motor with Pacifica Plus (interlux product). It’s not the best anti-fouling but is compatible with the motor alloy. The other thing to watch out for is fouling of the trim rams if you leave them extended. Always put the motor on its support latch and retract the rams to avoid getting a buildup that can tear the seals.