2007 Marlin Head Discharge

M

Meanwhile

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I was outside the 3 mile limit so I tried to dump my holding tank. I know there is water and pink fluid in the tank yet the light in the head shows empty. I filled and flushed a bunch of water yet no change.

Anyone have this happen? Wondering where the sensor is located and how to change it out.20140705_175418.jpg20140705_175459.jpg20140705_175506.jpg
 
Im not familiar with that type of connection. Any knowledge on how to remove/replace?
 
Would be very interested in an answer to No Bails question. My gauge reading always reads low, even when there is plenty in the tank.
 
There are a lot of tank models , perhaps Grady technical support can tell you what make and model you have. It looks like a Groco with individual float sensors. You could have two or three , I can't tell from the photo.

The older sensors screwed into a 1 1/2 inch NPT fitting on the tank but I am not sure if yours are like that.

Many owners either install a newer type of sensor system or just ignore the lamps. The old Groco systems were problematic and replacement sensors are expensive.
 
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As mentioned, those are your sensors - yes, they are labelled. They just fit in there by friction. Look at the tank - you'll be able to see how much fluid is in there. Might need to shine a flashlight through the side. The answer could be as simple as the fluid hasn't reached a high enough level to turn the empty light off. Or, it could be stuck.

Do you have a Vacuflush system?
 
Yes I have a vacuflush system. I have 3 different sensors, you think if the empty sensor is stuck the others will not light up? So most likely that one sensor needs attention?

I've emailed the likely makers of the tank, just waiting for some answers. From what I can tell the sensors are expensive. Hopefully cleaning one sensor will do the trick.

Luckily a pump out station is very close. I'll pump it out then flush a bunch of water with some simple green in it. Run a bit and see if the float will work. I really do not want to open the sensor.
 
Yes, if it's a Vacuflush, then it's made by Dometic/Sealand. These are very common systems so there will be no issues finding info on the net or a manual online. Before you do anything, do like mentioned above and physically verify the level in the tank. Then fill it up till it's at least halfway and see if the empty light goes out and the half light comes on. I don't recall if the empty light goes out once you get to about 1/4, or if it doesn't go out till a little more is in there. But it should certainly be out by the time you get to half.
 
I think this is your tank or close to it.
https://sealandparts.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/hts-t-10gal.pdf
I see from the diagram that the actual float is a replaceable item, assuming the sensor rod is OK. I looked up one sensor (of the three) and it was about $60. I wasn't able to find out if multiple lamps turn on at the same time or if they step through the range but someone on the board should know. You can also pull the connectors from the sensors to see what happens as you jumper the two leads to the display.
 
They step through the range. Meaning, only one indicator light will be on the display panel at a time.

The floats can sometimes get stuck. Removal and cleaning should work if that's the case. I've read that some people have good luck with a waste enzyme to unstick things - I think NoFlex may have been one that was recommended.

EDIT: Were those pictures there before? For some reason, I didn't see them yesterday. Those sanitation lines are pretty tough - but those cracks are likely going to start, at the least, letting smells out. The rubber is cracked through enough that the internal metal winding/reinforcement is exposed.
 
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DennisG01 said:
They step through the range. Meaning, only one indicator light will be on the display panel at a time.

The floats can sometimes get stuck. Removal and cleaning should work if that's the case. I've read that some people have good luck with a waste enzyme to unstick things - I think NoFlex may have been one that was recommended.

EDIT: Were those pictures there before? For some reason, I didn't see them yesterday. Those sanitation lines are pretty tough - but those cracks are likely going to start, at the least, letting smells out. The rubber is cracked through enough that the internal metal winding/reinforcement is exposed.
Click to expand...

The photos added are from a before session. All hoses have been replaced when I bought the boat, second owner. The fuel lines were very bad also.
 
I thought I should update this thread. Not wanting to open up the various sensors I decided to use a product to free up any gunge. It worked. My tank now reads accurately. Patience and BoatersMate Zaal Noflex Digestor Sewage Treatment Odour & Sludge Eliminator will get me through the season.
 
That is great access to your tank. You would not believe where a Sailfish tanks is located and how difficult it Is to work on that tanks, Macerators and floats
 
Your set up looks like mine. Vacuflush toilet, Tank Manager discharge pump controller and Standard HTS-T tank with discharge pump.
Google Dometic Sealand Holding tank system HTS-T Model. If yo don't find the owners manual reach out and we can chat.
 
The empty indicator is under the black flush cap on the left hand rear of the tank.
 
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