2016 GulfStream 232 windless install

A moot point... I've done 1/2" rope to 1/4" chain plenty of times - actually is not bad at all.

1/4" is rated for larger boats than you have - you're good with 1/4".

Fluke... just a tie a piece of rope to it and see how it acts while you lower it out of the roller and then bring it back in. The windlass doesn't care what type of anchor you have - all it is an automatic "you".

Personally, I think swivels aren't worth the money.
 
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The biggest issue with 1/4" 1/2" splice is too much line in the locker. The windlass won't swallow the splice. Sometimes you have to climb up there and knock the pile down.

As far as setup her is mine. I installed a pivoting anchor roller what I refinished the bow pulpit. Works great. Used several anchors. Currently using plow but delta works ok too. I bend up or donate an anchor a year on the reef!

Bow Pulpit refinished on boat.jpeg
 
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Thank you all / my plan is evolving & hopefully for the better. I have in my possession, or have already ordered, almost everything I need to complete this job.

I did end up buying 4awg wire for the helm run to the batteries. It didn't make sense to risk using 6awg where the distance was on the edge. I'm also going to mount the circuit breaker in the helm instead of near the batteries. Photo's of another install on this forum show it mounted near the lower right access plate, which looks good and seems to make sense.

I did purchase a Mantus S1 swivel. I probably could have waited to see if the setup would work without it,.. instead I threw another hundred$ in the water (this happens a lot).

I'm planning to use a piece of 1/2 starboard cut to the size of the hatch mounted on the underside as backing. Not sure what, if anything, I'll add to the factory hinge hardware.

The anchor... the fluke style one that came with the boat (I assume is factory) is very small. I'd be surprised if it worked well for this application but I am going to wait until everything is set up before I decide. If it does work, it will be because of the way the pulpit is designed, the anchor is snugged up to the bracket from the bottom, so maybe it will fall easily. I think the chain weight will prevent it. I'm a little shocked how much a 14lb and or 22lb stainless Delta costs (over 1k) . The stainless delta would look nice on the bow but a new galvanized fluke would sure be easier on the wallet. I don't typically anchor in places where I could loose it, mostly sand bars, sandy beaches, etc. which is why I would consider a stainless.

I don't expect to get much done on this project during the heat wave but I will 100% complete this project before the end of the month.

Any and all comments or suggestions are welcome. I truly appreciate the advice.
 
I would install a Blue Sea's surface mount circuit breaker on the battery switch panel near the battery. That is where it belongs from a protection standpoint. You should not be resetting the breaker. I bend at least one anchor each winter in Florida. I only had to reset it once when the anchor was really hung up.

I'm also using a claw or a delta now. (not stainless). Around 13 lb. Around $100. With 20' of chain and a swivel. I bent too many flute anchors.

Statboard backing isn't going to protect that hatch if you fall asleep at the switch like I did! Don't worry about the hinges breaking - they won't. It's the windlass tearing the hatch out at the hinges. The weak point is where the hinges attach to the hatch.

The hatch is not cored. It has a little "give". It could last forever. There is room behind your current hatch for backing. I reworked my old hatch when I switched from the Horizon windlass to the Lewmar. Drive motor on the other side and all holes had to be redone. I added Coosa board backing. You can see where it tore out. Hinges were unfazed!

After I blew mine up I put it back together enough that I could make a mold out of it. Then I made a new hatch with 1/2" Coosa board coring out to the edges including the hinges. You could also replace the hatch with 3/4" plywood that is wrapped with fiberglass and finished. I did this as a temporary fix. This would be the most durable answer.

anchor locker.jpeg
 
Ok, I hear you on the breaker. Based on your experience (thank you for sharing), I'll go back to my original plan for mounting the circuit breaker near the batter switch. Regarding the hatch, the starboard backing is a temporary solution to hopefully get me through this season. I think it will spread out the load enough for a temporary fix...I hope I'm not wrong... I'll remove the hatch when the boat is laid up for the winter and beef it up it with plywood and fiberglass.
 
Went fishing today and found the helm end of the wiring. Was very nice to see everything labeled.
Thank you GW!!
IMG_9427.JPEG
 
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