204c hard top radar installation

johnsonericm

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Apologies if this question has been answered, I was unable to find it if it has.

I'm about to install a Garmin GMR 18 xhd radome on my hardtop. The instructions say to connect the power cable as close to the battery as possible. It sure would be nice to just connect at the fuse panel in the radio shelf though. Do you think I could get away with doing so? Or do I really need to run it all the way to the stern?

Thanks for any insight.

EJ
 

Fever

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EJ-

I am doing the same thing right now on my 208. Garmin 18xHD.

There are two parts to this question:
Is it safe?
Will my Radar function properly?

Safety:
Garmin supplies a 15m (45 foot) power cord with a 7.5a fuse. I don't recall the wire size, but it's around 14ga.
On my 208, the radio box is powered on #10 ga wire. The fuse panel is all 10a fuses. If you've got something similar, you are safe to plug into one of those fuse slots if it's open. For safety concerns, you're going to be on a bigger wire than Garmin supplied, and shorter distance. That all adds up to "yes".

For performance:
I noticed the Garmin power cord is shielded. They recommend EMI shielding in their installation instructions. (Appears that they provided it in their power and network cords).
If you wire to the box, you are eliminating the shielding and vulnerable to interference from there to the battery and back. I don't know your set up. I don't even know if it matters. From the responses I got on my post (same topic) it seems for the Average Joe, EMI shielding fastidiousness is not that necessary. Could be that Garmin is painting the ideal picture.

I am wiring to the fuse panel in the overhead radio box. Just waiting for an internet ordered new fuse block to arrive and I'll do it this weekend.

Good luck.

Would like to hear how it works. I'll also post results on my thread.

Mike
 

johnsonericm

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Thanks so much Mike. Another question: If wiring to the overhead box, is there a reason for or against cutting the cable shorter (a lot) since one would only need a few feet?
 

Fever

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I would recommend cutting the power to length plus a some extra for potential later mods. You can coil the foot or so excess in the box.

Coiling and stowing an extra 40' to me seems excessive and cluttery.

Mike
 

journeyman

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I am sure that technology has changed since I installed radar on my last boat about ten years ago but when I did, I needed about three feet of cable and it came with I think 15 feet. I inquired about cutting it and was told that the length of the cable was necessary and shouldn't be cut. Something about the rotation of the magnetron and the time it took for the data to be sent to the display for it to be oriented correctly. It was easy enough to coil it around the radio box and wire tie it up out of the way.

I won't say that I used to walk to school in 3 feet of snow, uphill, both ways! :lol:
 

johnsonericm

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journeyman said:
I am sure that technology has changed since I installed radar on my last boat about ten years ago but when I did, I needed about three feet of cable and it came with I think 15 feet. I inquired about cutting it and was told that the length of the cable was necessary and shouldn't be cut. Something about the rotation of the magnetron and the time it took for the data to be sent to the display for it to be oriented correctly. It was easy enough to coil it around the radio box and wire tie it up out of the way.

I won't say that I used to walk to school in 3 feet of snow, uphill, both ways! :lol:

journeyman, thanks for the reply. Are you referring to the power or data cable? My question was about the power cable. I haven't done the install yet and welcome all feedback.
 

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johnsonericm said:
journeyman, thanks for the reply. Are you referring to the power or data cable? My question was about the power cable. I haven't done the install yet and welcome all feedback.

My installation, again was ten years ago and older technology, involved mounting a radar processor in the hardtop radio box which had short power leads to the DC bus already there and the cable to the dome was both power and data. A separate cable ran down from the processor to the display in my electronics box at the helm. I was told by Northstar NOT to cut the cable from the processor to the dome. I don't know if they are still using a processor to interpret radar signals before the display or, with today's technology, it is unnecessary.
 

SmokyMtnGrady

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Two things. Don't cut the data cable. Part of it it is shielded from RF interference. Don't do it. I suspect you are good to go on the power cable.

Two,my 24Xhd Garmin works better with a wedge giving it a forward tilt. I mounted it initially without a wedge and then added a wedge later. It's better with a wedge. Mine is mounted as far forward of the hump in the hard top with the leading edge of the dome just over the spot where the hump drops off. Good luck.
 

mmiela

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I am going to attempt to install a new garmin 18xhd this weekend. I called garmin and asked what I could do besides the 50’ network cable and power cord. Think it is rediculous that you have to hide 80 feet of wire to install a new unit.
 

johnsonericm

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I've installed mine (with a wedge) but don't have the boat in the water yet. I kept the power cord intact for now in case I determine I'd like to go back to the battery. I'll report back when I've had a chance to play with it on the water...
 

mmiela

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SmokyMtnGrady said:
Two things. Don't cut the data cable. Part of it it is shielded from RF interference. Don't do it. I suspect you are good to go on the power cable.

Two,my 24Xhd Garmin works better with a wedge giving it a forward tilt. I mounted it initially without a wedge and then added a wedge later. It's better with a wedge. Mine is mounted as far forward of the hump in the hard top with the leading edge of the dome just over the spot where the hump drops off. Good luck.

What wedge did you use?
 

Fever

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Update:

Took mine out this weekend and played with it.

This was the Garmin 18xHD mounted on a 208 Adventure hard top. No wedge, but the front of the hard top curls down forward a little bit. It was noticeable once the radar was bolted down.

I cut the power cord AND the network cable to an appropriate length to reach the fuse panel in the overhead radio box (power cable) and the GPS unit in the console box (Network cable). The network cable with fitted with a Garmin Marine Ethernet terminal that they supplied. The power cable - I removed the in-line fuse and terminated with a ring to got over the ring post in the new fuse panel.

I am 100% satisfied with the install.

Good clear radar signatures off boats and buoys. I used the GPS overlay function to confirm buoys and land.

Also, I won't be wedging it forward at all. I got good reflections at any speed or trim. Didn't seem to matter.

Mike
 
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mmiela

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Good to hes your installs ito n went well. I also installed mine and did not use the wedge. I did not cut either the power or the network canle as per garmin but I do not like the extra length in the overhead box but it is what it is. I also got good returns with the radar.
 

Fishtales

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I wouldn't cut it, at least for a while. I'd wire it where you want and coil the rest up to see how it performs. You could get noise from other devices wired into the panel. Test everything, windlass up/down, radio, engines on/off and starting and anything else you can do. As stated, many marine electronic cables are shielded or are engineered for the specific product. The last thing you want to do is alter and find out you got some undesired behavior either the unit itself or due to interference from other things on the boat.
 

johnsonericm

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OK so my setup seems to work great. I did add the wedge, did not cut wires. No interference as far as I can tell. I guess I'm at the "if it ain't broke" moment of the project and will leave it as it is...
 

Jzeno186

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Update:

Took mine out this weekend and played with it.

This was the Garmin 18xHD mounted on a 208 Adventure hard top. No wedge, but the front of the hard top curls down forward a little bit. It was noticeable once the radar was bolted down.

I cut the power cord AND the network cable to an appropriate length to reach the fuse panel in the overhead radio box (power cable) and the GPS unit in the console box (Network cable). The network cable with fitted with a Garmin Marine Ethernet terminal that they supplied. The power cable - I removed the in-line fuse and terminated with a ring to got over the ring post in the new fuse panel.

I am 100% satisfied with the install.

Good clear radar signatures off boats and buoys. I used the GPS overlay function to confirm buoys and land.

Also, I won't be wedging it forward at all. I got good reflections at any speed or trim. Didn't seem to matter.

Mike
Can you send me a picture of your radar installed? I have the same boat and am going to install the same radar. Thanks -Jared
 

Jzeno186

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Update:

Took mine out this weekend and played with it.

This was the Garmin 18xHD mounted on a 208 Adventure hard top. No wedge, but the front of the hard top curls down forward a little bit. It was noticeable once the radar was bolted down.

I cut the power cord AND the network cable to an appropriate length to reach the fuse panel in the overhead radio box (power cable) and the GPS unit in the console box (Network cable). The network cable with fitted with a Garmin Marine Ethernet terminal that they supplied. The power cable - I removed the in-line fuse and terminated with a ring to got over the ring post in the new fuse panel.

I am 100% satisfied with the install.

Good clear radar signatures off boats and buoys. I used the GPS overlay function to confirm buoys and land.

Also, I won't be wedging it forward at all. I got good reflections at any speed or trim. Didn't seem to matter.

Mike
I have same boat and lookin for exact same set up, do you have any pictures of it that you can share ? Just trying to get an idea if exactly where to mount it. Thanks !!