Wondering if anyone out there has installed an anchor roller/windlass combo on a 208 Adventure, and if so, how it was done
208 Windlass?
- Thread starter Gone fishin
- Start date
My 209 has one installed by previous owner who was getting up in years. It’s kinda cool to be able to operate it from the helm, but it’s one more thing to go wrong on the boat and the anchor bangs the bow on occasion leaving some chips in the gel coat. Switch is at the helm, solenoid mounted near the battery, heavy gauge wire from there to the anchor locker. See pics. 
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Couple more pics. Looks like they added inspection plates for some reason. Maybe to deal with snarls. The anchor locker lid is thick and strong but I think I would have bolted the free end through rather than jus rely on the fit and latch to secure it. Doesn’t seem to go anywhere though even when the windlass pulls the boat.
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SkunkBoat
GreatGrady Captain
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fsc60
Well-Known Member
bow pulpit
I have a 98 208 and just installed the pulpit. Grady provided no instructions for me. I'm a mechanic and it wasn't hard just time consuming. I have some tips. First remove the hardware that is in the way(cleat and chocks). With the boat on the trailer I put a 6' ladder in front of the boat and then used blocks of wood to support the pulpit. This allowed me to center the pulpit and get it where I wanted it. I made some pencil marks around it so I knew if it moved. If you look close at the top of the pulpit there are spots in the finish to show you where to drill all the holes. Then drill the holes to mount it. I always drill one hole at a time and insert a bolt to keep it in place. When your ready to install it, a helping hand is great. I did it alone and it was a challenge. They gave me 3 tubes for the caulk gun. I used 5200 under the pulpit where it would not be seen. Then I put the almond silicone under the edge of the pulpit so it would squeeze out all around the edge and I smoothed it out after the pulpit was bolted. Be sure to get a good seal under the front of the pulpit to the bow. Thats not easy.
Time for the bow rail.
To loosen the allen set screws you have to heat them with a heat gun because they are Loctited. Take apart more of the bow rail than you think you need to because you don't want to bend anything and when your done it should sit there by itself you don't want any pressure pulling on it.
I cut to bow rail under the middle of the tee with a hacksaw. The new rail had to be spread alittle to get it to fit properly. Grady did not provide the vertical supports they are 7/8" stainless tubeing. Again the holes are marked to locate where to put the bases for the supports. It is tricky to keep this all together before its bolted. I thru bolted all the hardware, you might find some of the nuts and bolts are missing. If you need to buy any make sure its 316 stainless utherwise it will rust. Watch the chocks for the bow line they are marked left and right. Take your time and make sure everything is staight and centered. I also did a windlass at the same time, drill those holes before you bolt down the pulpit. Look for wires under the deck for the lights. dont drill thru them. Email me at fsc60@sbcglobal.net and I will email some pics that might help. They are not from my boat but were a big help.
I have a 98 208 and just installed the pulpit. Grady provided no instructions for me. I'm a mechanic and it wasn't hard just time consuming. I have some tips. First remove the hardware that is in the way(cleat and chocks). With the boat on the trailer I put a 6' ladder in front of the boat and then used blocks of wood to support the pulpit. This allowed me to center the pulpit and get it where I wanted it. I made some pencil marks around it so I knew if it moved. If you look close at the top of the pulpit there are spots in the finish to show you where to drill all the holes. Then drill the holes to mount it. I always drill one hole at a time and insert a bolt to keep it in place. When your ready to install it, a helping hand is great. I did it alone and it was a challenge. They gave me 3 tubes for the caulk gun. I used 5200 under the pulpit where it would not be seen. Then I put the almond silicone under the edge of the pulpit so it would squeeze out all around the edge and I smoothed it out after the pulpit was bolted. Be sure to get a good seal under the front of the pulpit to the bow. Thats not easy.
Time for the bow rail.
To loosen the allen set screws you have to heat them with a heat gun because they are Loctited. Take apart more of the bow rail than you think you need to because you don't want to bend anything and when your done it should sit there by itself you don't want any pressure pulling on it.
I cut to bow rail under the middle of the tee with a hacksaw. The new rail had to be spread alittle to get it to fit properly. Grady did not provide the vertical supports they are 7/8" stainless tubeing. Again the holes are marked to locate where to put the bases for the supports. It is tricky to keep this all together before its bolted. I thru bolted all the hardware, you might find some of the nuts and bolts are missing. If you need to buy any make sure its 316 stainless utherwise it will rust. Watch the chocks for the bow line they are marked left and right. Take your time and make sure everything is staight and centered. I also did a windlass at the same time, drill those holes before you bolt down the pulpit. Look for wires under the deck for the lights. dont drill thru them. Email me at fsc60@sbcglobal.net and I will email some pics that might help. They are not from my boat but were a big help.
Agreed. I'm going to service the windlass and when I put it back together through bolt the lid.
I've seen refits where the anchor locker lid is split into two pieces. One piece is then reinforced and bolted/fixed in place for the windlass motor. The other piece of the lid is hinged and made operable. You need a way to get into the locker to free up snags and the like. Running the power can be a chore since there is no rigging tubs past the helm. The original cabling was run under the head liner I believe.
Space is tight without a pulpit. The most creative solution to anchor deployment is not the prettiest but not the ugliest either. A boater mounted an anchor roller and behind it mounted a pulley. On the starboard side he mounted another pulley to the outer side panel by the gunnel. He ran the anchor rope through the two pulleys and tied off at a cleat near the helm. To deploy the anchor, he untied the line and let it play out. He could do that while at the helm. Tie it off, set the anchor and done. To haul the anchor just take in the line at the helm and tie off. Of course there will be a pile of rope but he didn't have to walk around the help up front to manage the anchor. As all 208 and similar hull owners can attest, walking around the helm with only a Bimini top to hold onto in seas to is not fun at all
Space is tight without a pulpit. The most creative solution to anchor deployment is not the prettiest but not the ugliest either. A boater mounted an anchor roller and behind it mounted a pulley. On the starboard side he mounted another pulley to the outer side panel by the gunnel. He ran the anchor rope through the two pulleys and tied off at a cleat near the helm. To deploy the anchor, he untied the line and let it play out. He could do that while at the helm. Tie it off, set the anchor and done. To haul the anchor just take in the line at the helm and tie off. Of course there will be a pile of rope but he didn't have to walk around the help up front to manage the anchor. As all 208 and similar hull owners can attest, walking around the helm with only a Bimini top to hold onto in seas to is not fun at all