225 Yamaha shift issues

Jns1981

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Overnighter
Have a 2003 Yamaha 225.

Stiff shifting, takes some effort. When I troll for a while and then accelerate out to leave the RPM’s are spongy.

Today I struggled to get it back into neutral.

Thinking shift rod? Is it just time to repower with the labor involved in pulling a power head?
 
i am not sure the two issues are related based on your info. In general shifting issues such as stiff, hard shifts are control cable issues or shift linkage issues. I do not know what 'spongy' RPMs are:)
 
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When I push the throttle to accelerate, the rpm’s go up, and down, inconsistently… I throttle back and have to accelerate very slowly for rpm’s to rise consistently, albeit very slowly.
 
When I push the throttle to accelerate, the rpm’s go up, and down, inconsistently… I throttle back and have to accelerate very slowly for rpm’s to rise consistently, albeit very slowly.
That part kind of sounds like a spun prop hub. The other part sounds like a shift cable/linkage issue.
 
If you push the throttle forward and the boat accelerates to a point and then slows down without you adjusting the helm controls, you probably have a fuel starvation issue. There are several common causes, clogged VST screen, clogged hi speed fuel filter (if equipped) , leaky primary clear fuel filter under cowling, and more Typically, diagnosis would start with a fuel pressure gauge.
 
Mobile marine mechanic here. Good advice above. Before you talk about a repower, split it into two problems and test each one cheap.

Shifting:
1. Disconnect the shift cable at the engine and move the shift arm by hand. If it clicks into forward, neutral and reverse with light effort, the engine side is fine and the problem is the cable or the control box.
2. With the cable off, work the control handle. Stiff or gritty means the cable is binding (corrosion inside the jacket) or the control box needs service. A stiff cable also gives you the "can't find neutral" problem because it won't push the shift arm all the way back.
3. If the engine side is stiff with the cable off, then you're into the shift rod and lower unit, which is the bigger job.

Spongy RPM:
4. Check the prop hub first. Mark the prop and the hub with a paint pen, run it hard, see if the marks moved. A spun hub gives exactly that rev-up-with-no-pull feel after a long troll.
5. If the hub is good, do what seasick said: fuel pressure gauge on the rail, then the primary filter under the cowl and the VST screen. A long troll followed by a hard pull is the classic way to expose a fuel supply problem.

Both checks are a few hours and cheap parts before anyone pulls a powerhead.

General info only. Always follow your manufacturer's service manual.