265 hatch removal cover

[Diad]

Hi,
i am going to remove the hatch that covers the aft bilge and the larger hatch that covers the fuel tanks to have repaired. They are holding a ton of moisture. My question is what could I cover the openings with while being repaired? I was thinking of a piece of plywood and a blue tarp. I don’t want to shrink wrap because there is a lot of work being done over the winter and we need access. I’m thinking plywood can at least keep any potential snow from getting in and sitting on the fuel tanks, and it can still be stepped on. i assume that the fuel tank compartment drains to the bilge which has the plug pulled for rain water. Any thoughts?

thanks!

 

[DennisG01]

That should work. Just get the bow up nice and high (jack/blocks) so it drains well. If you really wanted to, you could use some shrink wrap tape around the perimeter.

 

[seasick]

Hi,
i am going to remove the hatch that covers the aft bilge and the larger hatch that covers the fuel tanks to have repaired. They are holding a ton of moisture. My question is what could I cover the openings with while being repaired? I was thinking of a piece of plywood and a blue tarp. I don’t want to shrink wrap because there is a lot of work being done over the winter and we need access. I’m thinking plywood can at least keep any potential snow from getting in and sitting on the fuel tanks, and it can still be stepped on. i assume that the fuel tank compartment drains to the bilge which has the plug pulled for rain water. Any thoughts?

thanks!

Most tank coffins are sealed. That is done to stop a leaky tank from draining into the bilge. Do you normally shrink wrap your boat or cover in some other way?

You can use a large piece plywood and a tarp but it is going to leak especially if snow piles on it and freezes/thaws/freezes.You coud use the original lids to make a plywood cover that fits the opening. That can be laid in place and sealed with tape. You would be surprised how well blue masking tape can hold up. Of course you could use something stronger like Gorilla tape or other 'magical' products.
When you want to gain access, just slit the tape and when done add another layer.

By the way, use exterior grade plywood and paint the edges or the whole thing to slow down moisture damage

 

[drbatts]

A piece or pieces of plywood should work fine. If it leaks a little, no big deal, the bilge area is designed to get wet. Did you think of covering the whole boat with a tarp or cover? If you plan to keep the boat for a many years, then consider getting a cover, I had an off the shelf carver cover which lasted 9 seasons for my 265 and i gave it to the buyer when I sold it. Removing the hatch is kind of awkward and best done with 2 people. I removed mine by myself, which was doable as it was dry, but a second person would have been so much easier. While your in there change out the fuel lines too if they have not been done yet.

Also do a search on this site another member skunkboat replaced his deck panels and documented it pretty well.

 

[Diad]

Thank you all for the suggestions! I just picked up the boat a couple of weeks ago so i have not shrink wrapped it or covered it yet. My last boat i had a custom cover made and it was wonderful. I'll probably do the same in the future. I highly doubt that the fuel lines have been replaced yet. That would be on the list along with, potentially, new fuel tanks because of the age (2003 265EX). Great suggestion on cutting the plywood to fit. I just picked up the made for Grady almond SCS1700 caulk. $20 per tube so i won't be using that until the final project.

 

[SkunkBoat]

No worries about sealing it over the winter if you cover it. Water will drain out. Main thing is don't get leaves and crap in the fuel tank space.That would be bad....

Don't walk on the tank. Definitely put some temporary plywood for walking.

I don't shrink wrap because I do projects over the winter. I use a tarp from the hardtop to the tailgate. Works out great. Keeps out most snow, rain, and leaves.
I can get in/out easy. Sit in my boat and drink coffee and daydream...
Here are some old pix. I only use two pvc pipes now. One on each side from lower hardtop rodholder to the rear gunnel rodholder

 

[DennisG01]

Skunk, is that sch 80? Hmmm... I like that. I assume you gently heated it to bend it? I've bent pvc before to make things such as a custom rigging tube... but it never dawned on to do something like you did.

How long have those pieces been around?

I like working on the boat in the winter, too. One time I built a squared off frame out of 2x's that squared off the entire cockpit so I could cut out the entire cockpit floor and parts of the stringers/bulkheads and then rebuild it the way I wanted it. I hung a 4' shoplight in the center and even had one of those electric, oil-filled heaters. Now THAT was livin'!

 

[SkunkBoat]

its plain old 10' x 3/4" sched40 pvc electrical conduit. Bends by hand. Stick it in one rodholder and bend it over into another.(it will stay bent after that)
You can add them together if you need longer.

I re-use them for years.

I don't cross them at the tailgate anymore. It held snow in the center. Now most snow slides down the center over the motors or sideways over the gunnels.

 

[DennisG01]

Oh, that's sch 40? It looked grey. Thanks, Skunk!

 

[eppem]

Owned a 265 for 14 years, we lifted the entire floor hatch and replaced the lines when the boat was 10 years old, pretty easy and I was able to lift everything myself. We actually put a hinge in the aft section for access. It wasnt 100 percent waterproof but made for great access. If you have any questions about the 265, more than happy to help answer them.

EPPE

 

[Fishtales]

If you are just doing the core due to being wet you may be abject to do it yourself. The core will come away from the fiberglass hatch pretty easily. Can glasss in a new core (wood or a composite like coosa) easiky

 

[SkunkBoat]

Oh, that's sch 40? It looked grey. Thanks, Skunk!

its sched40 grey electrical conduit not sched40 white plumbing PVC.

Sched 80 is thicker wall, won't bend and cost too much

 

[DennisG01]

its sched40 grey electrical conduit not sched40 white plumbing PVC.

Sched 80 is thicker wall, won't bend and cost too much

Oh, right. You mentioned that the first time and I glossed right over it! Which makes sense... I still couldn't see how sch 40 PVC could bend like that without heating it... but conduit, sure.