268 Islander inspection/seatrial

[ElMar]

Going to look at my first Grady 268 Islander this week, any pointers on what to look for specific to Gradys and this model would be appreciated. It’s a 1999 with single 250 OX66.

Boat is in the water. I will moisture test what I can with the Tramex Skipper plus and will do compression test on the OX66.

What else? I may seatrial too if I decide to put an offer in.

Thanks.

 

[barclayrl]

Pay close attention to the aluminum transom cap. If it’s bent or deteriorating it’s not a cheap fix as you have to pull the engine to replace it

Make sure the bilge is clean and tap the inside of the stringers as much as you can. Open the access hatches in the euro transom and tap everything you can reach in there.

If you do buy it. When you bring it home make sure you change every filter in the systems oil and gas. Drain the oil tank, clean with 2 stroke gas premix and allow to air out. Then replace the tiny oil filter on the onboard tank. I would also replace the oil pump but they are around $200.

On the topside, check the walls between the deck and cabin as they rot often especially by the bottom. Open all the access hatches in the deck and inspect the water tanks, and fuel sender unit.

Txt me at 717-729-8516. I recently fully rebuild a 2001 if you need help

 

[barclayrl]

One more side note. If this model does not have the full running surface on the bottom It would have to be a very low cost because you would have to go with a very light 4 stroke as Grady redisgned the hull in 2000 to accommodate the 4 stroke weight. But the new mercs may be the ticket

 

[ElMar]

Thanks.

As far as I know this has the early running surface. I will never put twins on it, looks like it floats well. May repower with a 300. Probably ETec but that’s down the road.

Pic is of the boat. Can you tell what transom?

 

[family affair]

You should be able to see the trim tab ram from that photo if it has the full running surface. I don't think that started till 01, or 02.

 

[ElMar]

Put a down payment on this girl. Hopefully picking up early next week.

 

[Graybeard]

Caveat Emptor.....Invest in a marine survey if you have any concerns. Wide beam GW’s of that vintage have known hull delamination issues. What I thought was the perfect Marlin 30 at the perfect price failed the survey due to hull side delamination. Cost me some $$$ to find out but it saved me from a big mistake. So if it’s a10’ beam or wider, be aware. My last boat had the same engine and I suggest you Do a compression check on all the cylinders.

 

[ElMar]

Did a compression test, everything was in spec.

This is an 8'6" beam, are those known to have delamination?

 

[Graybeard]

Only the wide beam models 10’ and greater had the problem, so you are good. My old boat had an OX-66 engine and I learned they are susceptible to blown heads and pistons if there is water in the fuel. I always used Yamaha Ringfree and a stabilizer and never had an issue. One of my fishing buddies with OX-66’s found out the hard way that using a quality fuel conditioner is very important.

 

[ElMar]

Yes. Very familiar with the OX66

 

[seasick]

Only the wide beam models 10’ and greater had the problem, so you are good. My old boat had an OX-66 engine and I learned they are susceptible to blown heads and pistons if there is water in the fuel. I always used Yamaha Ringfree and a stabilizer and never had an issue. One of my fishing buddies with OX-66’s found out the hard way that using a quality fuel conditioner is very important.

Ring Free and Stabilizer do nothing for water in the fuel. What is more likely is that not using something like Ringfree allowed carbon buildup in the piston ring grooves. That eventually will lead to piston ring cracking and then total failure