272/282 Sailfish with A/C

[BobP]

Members with this model and equipped with factory A/C, a few questions -

Where did Grady mount the A/C unit?
Where is the intake air vent, and outlet (cold air vents) located. How many outlets?
How about the sw pump location?
Where is the intake SW strainer/valve, and outlet thru hull?

I'm considering retro-fitting the 252G.


Thanks.

 

[Bebo]

My ac is mounted in the rear berth under the helm.
The intake is in the panel that was created to hide the unit.
One vent is behind rear berth forward facing, the other just under sink in the head compartment, facing forward to forward berth
Pump and strainer are near the bait well pump, mine also has a fresh water "T" that I use for flushing.
The outlet is near the unit on the starboard side.

let me know if you have any questions.

 

[Leebert]

You can download your manual here. There is a diagram of the AC components you can follow.

http://gradywhite.com/customer/manuals/

I just installed an AC for my Marlin. I installed it just like the factory would have.

Have fun. Mine was a pain.

LB

 

[Tommyboy]

Bob, I have the same boat as you, I have a CruiseAir 1600BTU A/C unit. The unit itself is mounted in the front hatch under the bunk, the air intake vent is on the wall under the table mount, there are 2 cold air vents, one on either side wall of the V-berth (these swivel 180') .. the pump /strainer and thru hull seacock are mounted back by the transom (center) .. the discharge is to starboard about 5 ft from the bow ....

Tom

 

[BobP]

Thanks Guys -

Bebo is that an original factory install ?

When you say rear (lower) berth, is it behind the rear service panel of the berth, or between the area under the steps going down into the cabin (forward wall of lower berth - port side)?

Is the bait well (SW) pump at the stern or under the cabin area? My SW pump is at the stern.

And does the vent in the head blow cold air into the head or pass thru the head to get to the forward V berth area ?

Tommy, the humidity is the problem when it gets too hot out, really don't mind the heat. Sounds like the V berth location will take intake air not from the cabin, so it's not drying the cabin air per say, at least how I see you have it located.

I can fit a 6500 btu unit reverse cycle behind the lower berth rear service panel, but then my vacuflush generator has be be moved somewhere else from there now, and my hot water heater needs a home. The AC is just too tall it seems to fit under the steps combined with the galley area, by an inch or two.

The Marlin has more beam to locate this stuff.

 

[Bebo]

I believe it is a factory install. I bought it used. They used a portion of the berth and made a panel that blocks off the starboard side of the berth. My pump is in the stern. And the vent duct passes through the head under the sink counter to the forward berth.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

[SilverLining]

I have a 2000 272 Sailfish. Installed Mermaid A/C myself in 2002 with some suggestions from GW. Unit is inside step compartment, plenty of room behind the refrig. Had to slightly modify distributor T on top of unit for height. Built(screwed in place) in a 3/4" plywood base plate to level and support the unit. Intake is on port side in the aft berth. Two outlets-one on port side in tray beside v berth and one directed to the center through the second step. 110V raw water pump in S/B battery/filters/pump compartment access under rear seat. Thru hull and filter on c/l in same compartment, aft of the bilge pump.

Works very well there and is using space not normally used in the 272. Clean/change the air filter from rear berth access.

 

[BobP]

Bebo - I doubt original since the below berth would not be useful as sleeping quarters, but there is plenty of room to locate things for sure if not sleeping down there

SilverL - The step/galley design was changed on later (your) Sailfish models, I don't have the height in deep to completely get in in there from the back of the port side of the berth. It will stock out about 5 inches into the lower berth - have to do dome more measuring and make a cardboard dummy of the actual unit.

What a pain in the can to install one of these, and these things are plenty expensive. I don't mind the nickel, but have to work at getting it there.
Can't find a discount deal on the web. Dometic bought the various brands out, they cornered the market to control the price.

Would your unit be easier to install if the cold air outlet was not on the top, but facing the cabin instead ?
They are sold with a choice of top, right, and left outlets.

Since I only need it at the dock and no reverse cycle needed -
I'm actually thinking of using a compact $129 buck 5500 btu window unit with remote control, in an 18in wide by 13 inch high cutout in the cabin wall under the console. It will fit there. Turn the cut out into a hinged lift door, then open door and slide it in when using, then put in the dock box when not, close door. Can't hang out on bridge though - usually don't - will be too hot from the condensor, but cabin will be quieter though with the noise outside.

 

[Grog]

If you move the trim tab pump and fresh water pump will it fit there?

 

[BobP]

Grog, you are talking about behind the rear service panel of the lower berth?
Yes the Mermaid Marine fits there, just have to spread the twp pumps out further on the bulkhead, don't have to relocation them. A modification to the opening has to be made to allow suction air from cabin, and the partition wall bottom 2x2 needs to be eliminated. It's tight but fits.

The problem back there is teh distance getting the cold air hose over into the main cabin, manuf. recommends no longer than 5 ft of hose to first vent.
She'll ice up if too much restriction in outlet pass.

The window A/C I was referring to is for the bulkhead on the bridge, adjacent to cabin door. There's 2 feet of width there, plenty of height.
Have to figure something for the footrest, it' sin the same spot. Already removed the alcohol stove, don't use it.

 

[Grog]

If you're worried about distance, put an inline booster fan in.

 

[Leebert]

Is distance really a problem? It would seem to me that as long as the hose is not crimped you should be OK. Wouldn't the restriction be the smallest opening and not the length?

How long do you estimate it to be? 7-8 ft? If so, I don't think I'd worry too much about it. I could be wrong but it doesn't seem like length would be an issue.

LB

 

[BobP]

At least that's what's in the install manual. No mention of booster pumps.
Bilge blower pumps make a racket.

Mermaind Marine has very good literature. For those interested google Mermaid Marine M6.

Each foot of straight hose has a pressure drop, each turn, etc.

I would prefer it under the steps since the vacuflush vacuum generator/storage tank is behind the lower berth now, don't know if it will fit under teh steps, it's longer than AC unit.

If A/C is under the steps, the outlet hose will be very short, will take vent thru a step.

Nothing is ever easy.

 

[ahill]

Aftermarket Marineairrr install on my '98 272 by GW dealer. Under steps & galley. Return air in aft cabin under steps. vents in aft cabin, head and in top step riser. Digital control on bulkhead to right of stove.
Pump and seastrainer port of shower sump. I worry that if the forward bilge pump or float switch fails that the pump might get submerged. Three years & no problems. Make sure you clean your strainer regularly.
The boat's in S Fla so I rarely use heat but cool & dehumidify are great.

 

[BobP]

Ahill, thanks.

Did Grady install the A/C SW pump under the cabin floor because they didn't want it at the stern? Do you hear pump running ? And a new scoop intake/valve would be required.

Another member has his pump at the stern, probably off same intake scoop as regular SW pump. Longer route for AC cable and pressure hose.

It will have better chance to stay dry up forward than at the stern, in my opinion, since it has to be mounted below water line. All the bilge compartments art interconnected, so water rushes to the stern when the boat accelerates.

Also, since the unit is on the port side, how did the cold air hose get routed to the other side of boat - to the head?

 

[ahill]

Pompano Beach Marine Center handled the install. The pump is under the floor. Seacocks for a/c pump, head intake and holding tank discharge all easily available through the pieplate. I don't hear the pump running. A new hole was drilled through the bottom for the pick up. Originally had a high speed pick up. I don't run the boat with a/c on as I have a Honda 2000 EU sitting on the aft platform. The pick up was installed forward of the trailer V crossmember. It dramatically interfered with launch & retrieval of the boat. PBMC replaced it with a regular flush pick up. The first time I launched after that the boat shot off the trailer catching me and my line handling wife by surprise.
I can't rec PBMC highly enough.
The duct to the head was run from under galley through the underbunk storage compartments to the bulkhead between the head and starboard bunk. Long run but works fine.

 

[BobP]

Ahill, so the routing of the cold air hose passed thru the forward V berth to get over to the head ? Or around the back side via rear berth ?

 

[BobP]

I forgot one, if you don't mind -

Since the thru hull is now just a regular thruhull, do you you have any occasions where the pump looses suction and has to be bleed ?

 

[ahill]

Yes thru V berth. I don't know if it could be routed thru aft berth due to clearances & elevated head base. If you could snake it into the sink base it would work. I'll check next week.
I don't operate the boat with a/c running so loss of suction hasn't occurred. If I have the need to run with the genset on the rear platform it would be at slow speed.

 

[ahill]

Checked this past weekend. Can't run under the aft berth do to height and stringer limitations.
You could probably run between hull and bulkheads terminating just above the sink counter or into the undercounter area and out though the side of the sink base.
It's only about a 4" or so OD flex duct.