330 Express cockpit deck drains

Jtravis

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Hi guys I could use some advice. The hoses that drain my cockpit have rotted out. My mechanic is having trouble attaching the new deck drain hoses to the thru hulls. The thru hulls fittings themselves are inaccessible. Are there any tricks to getting new drain hoses attached without cutting inspection holes?
 

DennisG01

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I don't know that there's really any "tricks"... it kind of "is what it is" and you figure out a way. Sometimes it's easier to remove one or the other fitting, attach the hose (if there's clearance for the clamp... which there may not be), then reattach the fitting. Other times you're just working completely by feel. Heating the hose up can help... as can some soap on the barb and inside the hose.

But, cutting a hole is not a big deal - you just put an inspection plate over the hole. It's done all the time.
 
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Bg56126

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I had mine done last year. The port ones were not bad but the starboard were brutal. They ended up cutting a hole and adding an inspection plate in the deck behind the door to the cockpit. You can see it in this photo (Sorry I couldn’t find a better picture). I would ask your mechanic if they could put the hole in the side wall vs the deck but that will make it more difficult.

If they are in there, I’d recommend you do the thru hulls at the same time and get it all done once.
 

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Jtravis

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I don't know that there's really any "tricks"... it kind of "is what it is" and you figure out a way. Sometimes it's easier to remove one or the other fitting, attach the hose (if there's clearance for the clamp... which there may not be), then reattach the fitting. Other times you're just working completely by feel. Heating the hose up can help... as can some soap on the barb and inside the hose.

But, cutting a hole is not a big deal - you just put an inspection plate over the hole. It's done all the time.
Thank you very much for the advice I appreciate it! My mechanic can't even reach the thru hull fittings on the starboard side. The lack of access is super frustrating, I can't understand why Grady didn't consider maintenance in their design. He is trying to get at them from the generator access hatch but he isn't able to reach them even though he has crawled into the bilge and is basically laying over the generator. I will probably have him cut an access hatch at some point but I was hoping to avoid that if possible. Thanks again!.
 

Jtravis

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I had mine done last year. The port ones were not bad but the starboard were brutal. They ended up cutting a hole and adding an inspection plate in the deck behind the door to the cockpit. You can see it in this photo (Sorry I couldn’t find a better picture). I would ask your mechanic if they could put the hole in the side wall vs the deck but that will make it more difficult.

If they are in there, I’d recommend you do the thru hulls at the same time and get it all done once.
Thank you very much for taking the time to post a picture. I will definitely show it to him. Hopefully he will be able to reach the thru hulls from there. Thanks again!
 

DennisG01

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Thank you very much for the advice I appreciate it! My mechanic can't even reach the thru hull fittings on the starboard side. The lack of access is super frustrating, I can't understand why Grady didn't consider maintenance in their design. He is trying to get at them from the generator access hatch but he isn't able to reach them even though he has crawled into the bilge and is basically laying over the generator. I will probably have him cut an access hatch at some point but I was hoping to avoid that if possible. Thanks again!.
Some manufacturers do cut access holes ahead of time - others leave it to be cut later. It's only about a half hour job so no big deal. Sort of a "6 of one, half dozen of the other" kinda thing. In the end, it's all the same.

If there's any coring where the hole is made, make sure to properly protect it from moisture (thickened poly or epoxy resin is best after first removing a 1/4" of the coring).
 
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Fishtales

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I’ve heard a few ways.
- Cut a hole on the floor as the pic above. I think this is less desirable than the next as the inspection port is on the floor.
- Cut a hole on the vertical side wall. 90 degrees from the outside transom floor. I think this is the best option.
- Cut a hole in the exterior side of the hull above the thru holes. I’ve heard glass guys do it this way and then glass and gelcoat over.
 
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Fishtales

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2 8” Beckson plates for sale.

 
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everwhom

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I’ve heard a few ways.
- Cut a hole on the floor as the pic above. I think this is less desirable than the next as the inspection port is on the floor.
- Cut a hole on the vertical side wall. 90 degrees from the outside transom floor. I think this is the best option.
- Cut a hole in the exterior side of the hull above the thru holes. I’ve heard glass guys do it this way and then glass and gelcoat over.

My marina did option 2 above! Unfortunately I don't have pictures of it, but I'll try to remember to take some next time I'm on my boat. I think this option is greatly preferable to options 1 and 3!

Also when you do it be sure to upgrade to the new chrome drains instead of the plastic. I sadly missed this opportunity.
 
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Jtravis

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I’ve heard a few ways.
- Cut a hole on the floor as the pic above. I think this is less desirable than the next as the inspection port is on the floor.
- Cut a hole on the vertical side wall. 90 degrees from the outside transom floor. I think this is the best option.
- Cut a hole in the exterior side of the hull above the thru holes. I’ve heard glass guys do it this way and then glass and gelcoat over.
Thanks for the ideas! I think the first two options are my best choices at this point.
 

Pat Hurley

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Thank you very much for the advice I appreciate it! My mechanic can't even reach the thru hull fittings on the starboard side. The lack of access is super frustrating. "I can't understand why Grady didn't consider maintenance in their design". He is trying to get at them from the generator access hatch but he isn't able to reach them even though he has crawled into the bilge and is basically laying over the generator. I will probably have him cut an access hatch at some point but I was hoping to avoid that if possible. Thanks again!.
My best guess would be to go with option two as Fish stated... The Scientists at Grady weren't forward thinking enough.
 
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usmm1234

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You can barely see where the previous owner had an inspection plate put in to replace the hoses. It’s just under the open transom door.
 

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Jtravis

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You can barely see where the previous owner had an inspection plate put in to replace the hoses. It’s just under the open transom door.
Thanks for taking the time to post a pic. My mechanic cut the holes based on the images you guys shared. I definitely appreciate it!
 

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Anyone try to replace the transom shower head with a larger, hot and cold unit? Doing that might provide enough space to replace the deck drain hoses, give you a hot shower at the stern (once you run a hot water hose to it), and not require an additional plate? Asking because this is an upgrade on my wish list that I haven't tackled.

1653329998935.png
 
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Fishtales

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No, but it can be done very easily assuming you have access to the hot and cold lines and the space to mount the unit above. The existing pump for water pressure should be sufficient to drive the unit especially if replacing an existing cold shower.
 
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Jtravis

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Anyone try to replace the transom shower head with a larger, hot and cold unit? Doing that might provide enough space to replace the deck drain hoses, give you a hot shower at the stern (once you run a hot water hose to it), and not require an additional plate? Asking because this is an upgrade on my wish list that I haven't tackled.

View attachment 25965
My boat is an '03 and my shower is under a seat on the port side. If my shower was in the transom this would make for a pretty awesome upgrade!
 

georgemjr

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My '07 has cold only, at the transom, on the starboard side right near the electric hook up, go figure. With this location, it might allow access to those scupper hose changes (the original post). But the upgrade is simple since there is already a cool water line and the hot water heater is directly in front of that in the helm area. A simple T and a 10 ft hose run and you have hot/cold shower just like the bathroom and kitchen faucet. But as the original post was asking, I wonder if the larger cut out for this shower would allow access to those hoses (2 birds with 1 stone).
 
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Jtravis

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My '07 has cold only, at the transom, on the starboard side right near the electric hook up, go figure. With this location, it might allow access to those scupper hose changes (the original post). But the upgrade is simple since there is already a cool water line and the hot water heater is directly in front of that in the helm area. A simple T and a 10 ft hose run and you have hot/cold shower just like the bathroom and kitchen faucet. But as the original post was asking, I wonder if the larger cut out for this shower would allow access to those hoses (2 birds with 1 stone).
My mechanic wasn't sure he would be able to reach the thru hull fittings if he went through the side wall. I bet the hole for that shower unit is much larger than the inspection hole he cut so it might work.
 

Squid1962

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I had mine done last year on my 2008. I cut two access holes port and starboard to allow access. Inspection plates installed. There is really no other option.
 

wspitler

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I had mine done last year on my 2008. I cut two access holes port and starboard to allow access. Inspection plates installed. There is really no other option.
I have an 07 330 and it would be nice to see a picture of your inspection ports. The inspection port on the starboard side by the transom shower has only 3 inches between that and the outside of the hull. A Larger cut out for a dual hot and cold shower might work but it’s still a long ways down to the thru hulls and still pretty narrow access. Can I assume your inspection ports were all cut in the horizontal portion of the deck? Did you use pop outs or screw in plates? If so how large and how close to the sides. Thanks for the info.