The forward bilge on my 330 Express is out. The light on the rocker switch does not light up. Before I start taking things apart looking for it. Does anyone know where the fuse is?
330 Express Forward Bilge Pump Fuse Location
- Thread starter Cregan13
- Start date
there's a push button breaker with the battery switches (pretty sure float switch). also the breaker at the top of the switch. does it run if you lift the float? panel breakers fail, so do switches (and switch lights).
good luck.
good luck.
So, are there two bilge pumps here? This is my forward bilge looking from the aft berth towards the bow. 
There is an aft bilge pump at the stern, next to the transom, and centered on the keel. It is accessible through the pop out cover in the transom motor well. The pump at the top of your pic, in the plastic box, is for the shower sump. It has a separate switch on the DC panel and is automatic with a float switch. The other is, of course, your forward bilge pump. Is that what you were asking?
I just had a problem with the Forward pump on my 330. It wasn't the switch, breaker or pump. It was in the wiring harness plug from the forward pump. The plug was covered with black tape. When I removed the tape to get to switch it was full of corrosion. I removed plug and reconnected wires. Several electrical problems on my boat has been because of the wiring harness plugs they used.
It's been a few years since mine died...that being said, it is a 2004. They are pretty much the same configuration. The main fuse is a resettable one on the battery control panel on the aft cockpit deck near batteries. There is also a small one that is local above the switch itself.
Even if it's the pump. In the 330, there is plenty of room to work. Just remember to cut out the old connectors back to good wire, re-tin them, crimp or solder, dielectric grease, heatshrink, liquid tape and then re-secure them back to the water hose or the back wall up as high as possible. Then squeeze plenty of dielectric grease in the connector itself and the reconnect...
Test!
Bought a new pump today and headed down to the boat. Had some water in the bilge from recent heavy rain. Before getting to work, I disconnected the wire (quick connect) and took the motor from the old one out of the cradle. I spun the bottom a few times, put it back, and reconnected the wires. It came right on and pumped all the water out. When done, I went to the helm and hit the switch. No light, and the pump didn't come on. No clue at this point.
When you say, "When done.....", do you mean when done pumping the water out with the old one, or when done installing the new one.
Look at your battery switch, and see if you have these little black boxes next to it. They are fuses, pink is stereo memory, brown/white and brown/red are bilge pumps, 10 amp. I think white is rear and red is forward, look at your pump power wire in the forward bilge.
Look at your battery switch, and see if you have these little black boxes next to it. They are fuses, pink is stereo memory, brown/white and brown/red are bilge pumps, 10 amp. I think white is rear and red is forward, look at your pump power wire in the forward bilge.
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I had a similar problem and discovered that my pump was just sticky and would work after it was spun by hand. However, after it had been unused for some time it would stick again and not start. I sprayed the impeller shaft area with silicon spray and that lasted a few months. Finally I just replaced it and haven't had any problems since.
If the automatic function worked but the manual dash switch didn't, you need to understand that the 12 volts that powers the pump comes from two different sources; The automatic is feed by a feed directly connected to a battery ( that could be a lug on the battery terminal or a connection at the battery switch where the battery feed is connected. The manual pump function gets power from the assessor bus at the helm usually.
If the pump is bad or gets stuck after running, reach into the bilge and trip the float if it is accessible. The pump should run. Once it sops, try the manual dash switch. If the pump doesn't run but does if you trip the float, the pump is good and you have a power issue from the dash/switch panel. One thing to keep in mind is that although the manual and automimic modes use two different sources of 12 volts, they both use the same ground wire.
for a short cut, get a multimeter and see if you get power on the other side of the switch when flipped on . do the breaker also. i can't remember the circuit so you may have to check continuity first (battery off). good luck, ron