87 overnighter 20 questions

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wads33

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I just bought an 87 overnighter 206G with a 96 evinrude 175. I had a couple of questions. What is the "gromit" in the transom that all of the engine controls go through called? Its all beat up and I would like to replace it. I'm going to install a batterie switch and a second batterie, should I install a batterie charger also? Right now there is one batterie connected to a square box with one red buttun in the center of it, I think its a breaker? I'm not sure.

Thanks!
 
Welcome!

Many new members coming in recently with older Gradys like yourself.

The red button is a breaker under the cover, you want to remove the cover and inspect for corrosion.

This breaker feeds the ship's aux power, other than motor power. Motor power feeds the instruments up front, T&T, nothing else.

The outboard may be challenged keeping two batteries charged, depending how much time the motor is at cruise rpms, so going to a second battery - may be best to get a battery charger, promariner makes nice waterproof units, I'd recommend only waterproof.

Go to the Gradywhite website , you can download the owners manual for your boat and year, study it , if you didn't already.

Grady's 20 ft walkaround is the best and most popular mass produced walkaround around - in the last 30 yrs, and still counting.
Me biased? I had a 1988 204C for many years, I guess so!
 
The bushing is called a GROMMET. You may find a replacement at a marine supplier or you may need to go to a grady dealer to order one. If it isn't a split ring type, you will have to detach all the lines and cables to install it.
As for the batteries, I have a 208 with two batteries. I use it for day trips only, no overnight. It can sit for a week at a time or more between outings. I do not charge the batteries during the season, only during the winter when the batteries are removed and stored in a shed. I have never had an issue with a run down battery (YET!). At some point, they will die and need to be replaced. At the dock, nothing is powered on except the bilge pump if needed ( and it rarely is, maybe never).
 
Adding a second battery is not a bad idea, but it all really depends on how big your electrical load is. You are probably running basic electronics, a FF, gps and vhf. The engine alternator can handle all of this. Your biggest issue is having a good quality battery that has the power to handle what your trying to power. As batteries get older they do not hold a charge as well and take longer to charge, making your alternator work harder. My recommendation, whenever you buy a boat, replace the batteries so you know they are new and will not give you issues. A second battery is not a bad idea since you are running your electronics and starting your batteries off the same battery/batteries, this gives you added safety incase you do have a load draining your batteries. Always buy identical batteries and replace them at the same time, do not mix and match, they will charge at a different rate if they are a different age or type/size and one battery will be over worked and the other will have little benefit. If you do not come down for a week or 2 at a time, a battery charger is not a bad addition. The charger is not expensive, the promariner is a good unit for your size boat and is under $200. You will also need a shore power chord, another $100+ depending on length you need, and the adapter as well so it can add up, but it gives you peace of mind that when you get down to use the boat your engines will start and your batteries will be topped off and you will not have surprise dead batteries when you bring guests or the family. If you plan to keep the boat, a charger would be a wise investment, it is not an absolute neccesity, but it will keep the batteries topped off and keep you on the water which is well worth it. If you do not use the boat frequently, more reason to have one.

Enjoy the new boat and welcome to the forum!!
 
questions

Thanks guys! I'm going to add a second batterie and 4 way switch just so I have a spair. I checked this boat out thoroughly before I bought it and it seems very solid. Is there any quirks with these that I should know about? Gas tank issues or transum rot issues? Its the 206 g so there is a motor bracket. Its really very clean for an 87.
 
wads,think that bushing is called a boot. You might wanna do some homework/research on this board. Lotta input from guys with these boats. Your never gonna get better input than what you'll get from actual end users.
 
welcome wads,

I also had a bad cable protector boot. They sell them at any West marine about $30.00,

But you do have to remove the cables from the engine to replace the boot.

I would check the following as I just got a used 86 204c


Look at the fuse panel behind the console, make sure the fuses dont have any corosion, you can get a good look at them by removing the cover panels from inside the cabin behind the console. held on by some philips head screws, Mine needed some cleaning and most of the fuses were coroded.


If the fuel tank is original,
Definitly pull up the fuel tank cover and check that tank,
I will be replacing mine in the fall, I cleaned it up with woodys wax and replaced all the fuel supply lines and filler line.
Make sure to reseal the fuel tank cover with marine grade silicone caulk.

and if the deck plates are original,

Replace the deck plates on the bilge and fuel tank cover with new ones if they are original, make sure you reseal them with marine grade silicone.

Hope this helps, Good luck with her and have a great summer......
 
I was going to cut it and make sure I sealed it with caulk. Is that to much of a hack job?
 
Get a good look at what goes thru it. Probably the main harness, steering and throttle controls, possibly other stuff. All of which may be easily disconnected, fed thru the boot and reconnected. Personally, I would not cut the boot. The intention of the boot is to keep water intrusion to a minimum. Cutting the boot is only going to compromise that. Just so you know, I'm not suggesting something to you that I did not do myself.

PS, your not going to get caulk to stick to the material that, that boot is made from.
 
wads33 said:
I was going to cut it and make sure I sealed it with caulk. Is that to much of a hack job?
Click to expand...

Here's a link for a "slit" boot. Easy to install. Ive replaced them on a few grady's and even the screw holes lined up.

http://www.iboats.com/Motorwell_Boots/d ... w_id.38310

There are different sizes, (diameters) so measure your existing one to be sure.

I've had more luck with smaller dealers than with the big chains when it comes to finding these. Not to mention that the prices in recent years are better too. WM and BW can kiss my ... :P
 
sfc2113 said:
welcome wads,

I also had a bad cable protector boot. They sell them at any West marine about $30.00,

But you do have to remove the cables from the engine to replace the boot.

I would check the following as I just got a used 86 204c


Look at the fuse panel behind the console, make sure the fuses dont have any corosion, you can get a good look at them by removing the cover panels from inside the cabin behind the console. held on by some philips head screws, Mine needed some cleaning and most of the fuses were coroded.


If the fuel tank is original,
Definitly pull up the fuel tank cover and check that tank,
I will be replacing mine in the fall, I cleaned it up with woodys wax and replaced all the fuel supply lines and filler line.
Make sure to reseal the fuel tank cover with marine grade silicone caulk.

and if the deck plates are original,

Replace the deck plates on the bilge and fuel tank cover with new ones if they are original, make sure you reseal them with marine grade silicone.

Hope this helps, Good luck with her and have a great summer......
Click to expand...

I took your advice and replaced the deck plates. I also pulled up the fuel tank cover and checked out the tank. Its deffinitely not leaking and all of the connections looked pretty good. It does appear to be the original tank though. It says 1986 on the plate. I will probably replace it in the fall however is this something I need to worry about this year? What additives would you recomend me using?
 
wads33 said:
sfc2113 said:
welcome wads,

I also had a bad cable protector boot. They sell them at any West marine about $30.00,

But you do have to remove the cables from the engine to replace the boot.

I would check the following as I just got a used 86 204c


Look at the fuse panel behind the console, make sure the fuses dont have any corosion, you can get a good look at them by removing the cover panels from inside the cabin behind the console. held on by some philips head screws, Mine needed some cleaning and most of the fuses were coroded.


If the fuel tank is original,
Definitly pull up the fuel tank cover and check that tank,
I will be replacing mine in the fall, I cleaned it up with woodys wax and replaced all the fuel supply lines and filler line.
Make sure to reseal the fuel tank cover with marine grade silicone caulk.

and if the deck plates are original,

Replace the deck plates on the bilge and fuel tank cover with new ones if they are original, make sure you reseal them with marine grade silicone.

Hope this helps, Good luck with her and have a great summer......
Click to expand...

I took your advice and replaced the deck plates. I also pulled up the fuel tank cover and checked out the tank. Its deffinitely not leaking and all of the connections looked pretty good. It does appear to be the original tank though. It says 1986 on the plate. I will probably replace it in the fall however is this something I need to worry about this year? What additives would you recomend me using?
Click to expand...

Not leaking is a good thing, so I would not worry about it this year. Mine had corrosion and resulted in pits on the top from the leaky deck plate. and not sure about the bottom , looked inside the tank through the float switch hole and it looks good but will get replaced this fall for sure before I winterize. I usually just put in some Sta -bil as an additive. Fuel will stay 5 months versus 90 days. The tank is empty right now we drained it to clean it.
I also added a fuel water seperator / filter, the 10% ethanol fuel will reak havoc with your engine, especially those evinrude plastic carbs. My carbs were loaded with bits of rubber, metal, ect. did you get a compression check? if not I would get that done.
Now working on replacing my cabin bulkheads as they were rotted.
Well as soon as the snow melts off it anyway.....
 
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