89 Sailfish rebuild STRINGERS & TRANSOM

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captmig

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Hello all,
I have been looking for this boat for quite sometime and was able to find one within my budget, of course that means it needs some work.

This boat is in good shape as far as the hull and fixtures go , but the owner (74 yr old man) was not able to properly maintain her for the last 10yrs or so. He had the boat on a lift behind his home and never took out the drain plug. Becuase of a prior fuel hose fix that he did himself which left the fule hatch not properly sealed and a leak in the cabin, the boat would fill w/ water and not be drained for quite some time.

At firat I wanted to pass this by, but my love for this model took over. Me and my dad (Super fix it Dad) have built boats before and this task is within our range. I am on the mechanic side and he is the Fiberglass/ Carpenter.

I would like to get some info from you guys as I have seen and read a wealth of info on this site.

First off I need to replace the fuel tanks. I am thinking of just one single tank and have a choice between a 150 gallon aluminum or a 180 gallon plastic tank. Which would you all prefer? I have not had a plastic tank that large b4 but after seeing the pitting and corosion on the aluminum tnak , i am inclined to go w/ the plastic.

Next, I need to replace the stringers! I know the boat sat w/ water, mostly fresh water from rain, but cant help to think the glass work could have been done better. I am OK getting to the main stringers under the tanks of course , but will be trying to check all of them. I know I need to open up a few port holes/ inspection plates to reach a few of them but what have any of you all done b4 to inspect or replace the stringers under the cabin? I will remove the fresh water tank and cut open a hole to view but wanted to see if anyone can add anything.

While i am doing this whole project i have to open the transom of course and check that area out. It looks OK, but seeing how bad the rot below is I can only imagine the transom could use a make over. Any suggestions or tips on this? I will be working from the inside and will make her new.

Below are some pics, (i hope they show up) The damage looks horrible but if you can do the work yourself its not that bad, We have done worse in the past, the biggest issue is getting to the forward stingers. Any tips are welcomed.
tks

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The stringers you see are the main stringers that extend into the cabin, there is another set of stringers outboard under the fixed deck, not to mention the bulkheads too, about 5 cross the keel, a few other shorter partial beam ones.
Additional stringers begin at foot of cabin.

The floor under the gas tanks sit on subfloor stringers too.

The damage in the photos to the tanks is galvanic damage, readily avoidable next time around.
Nothing wrong with alum tanks.

Forget tanks, the gas tank will seem like hanging a picture when you get into the stringer work, especially if it extends into the cabin. You have to cut the transom cap off to access the transom from inside, the whole rear service panel is removable but not the cap.

For cabin stringer and bulkhead work, you have to cut a horizontal line around the perimeter of lower cabin and straight down the middle, remove it, then access to stringers and bulkheads is possible. Cabin base goes back scarfed in.

This is a project that takes a few years of 12 hr day weekends doing if not working full time.

There's a lot of wood in the boat, it's under all the horizontal glass surfaces.

The entore hull sides are cored with 3/8 in. Balsa, and the keel forward with 1/2 in. Balsa.

The outer skin will have to be cut off to access the hull coring then scarfed back on.

You can actually buy same boat with good wood and working motors for about $20K, less than $25K, so this boat should be almost a freebe. The value of the boat will never be any more after you rebuild it.

However, it is a DIYer project heaven if that's what you are into. If you can't wait to get it fixed and into the water, it will kill you to death in doing so.
 
You can drill 3/16 inch pilot holes a few inches off hull and catch the drillings, are they black, or damp (feel cool) ?
if they are black, it is not likely youy felt any resistance in drilling.

Can use an ice pick top down, should not penetrate the 3/4 ply at all.

For the transonm, do same drillings in grid pattern, 6 inch on center, start at bottom near keel, make a grid sketch and mark it.
 
Tks for the help Bob. I am hoping the cabin stringers are in good shape but will start to check this weekend or next.

So your saying inorder to access all the wood under the cabin , I should pretty much cut the interior off to be able to access it? Sounds like fun job!

I will make a few holes and see what comes out. Tks again
 
"Forget tanks, the gas tank will seem like hanging a picture when you get into the stringer work, especially if it extends into the cabin. You have to cut the transom cap off to access the transom from inside, the whole rear service panel is removable but not the cap. "

So to rebuild transom your saying I should take apart the top cap of the transom as well as the inside?

tks
 
So you already bought the boat? :shock:

Did you have a survey done? Was there any saturation in the hull or transom? If it had water sitting inside the hull for 10 years, then its probably been absorbing water into the hull for 8 years. You might need to completely strip the gelcoat off the hull and let it dry for a few years. That is, after you cut the deck out and replace all the stringers. Stringers in my 88 Grady are not glassed. Which means 10 years of water absorbtion.

For all other potential buyers out there, don't let your "love for a model of boat" cloud your judgement. It doesn't look like a rare model of Grady.
 
based on the pics, you've got some wet wood for sure....any black area behind the glass is compromised....you will see how easily the glass comes off the wood core in those areas....like butter......once you start down that path, the rest will most likely need replacing....it would almost be crazy not to at that point. The best way to get access is to cut the deck on the seam between the midship fishboxs and fishing area and then along the length of the gunnel just above the deck where the wood trim is screwed ie, the toe rail area...that way you can cover up the cut/repair with the wood trim later and no one will see if its not perfect.

To get under the helm without removing the cap is not easy...I am leaving mine alone as the wood forward is not rotted and seems dry. So I am splicing my stringers in appropriately. You can access some of the middle section from under the stairs by removing the inside side panels, removing the fresh water tank, and then cutting out the glass tub it sits in......that gives you access to a portion of that area....but it may not be enough...I would cross that path when I got there because your forward area may be fine.

The transom will most likely be wet and rotted near the bottom where it meets the hull......I have access to the full transom from the inside without cutting the cap ( which is pure luck as that is not the norm ) if I remove the fishbox in the cap itself. The wood core actually stops short of the cap and you can cut the skin all around it with the fishbox removed.

Bob is dead on the time frame.....2 years..or seasons...I started this time last year and will be done this time next year...if I want to have sometype of life outside my bilge area......if I push hard, maybe this fall...Winters are out as its too cold up in the northeast to epoxy anything when under 55F. If you're in Florida or someplace warm, you can do it part time in one no problem.

Buy plenty of Tyvek suits , garbage bags and 40 grit discs...and don't be surprised by anything you find in that vintage boat.
 
Thanks for the ideas, Yes i bought the boat knowing it had water damage, The engines are OK and the Hull as well, I knew I was in for a huge project but my budget did not allow me to go over $4k.

I picked up the boat and hopped for the best, time will tell how bad the damage is. I will poke holes here and there to try and see how bad it actually is.

Tks again for the help,
 
I have a feeling you have not done such a job like this before, the diagram Grady provided showing the stringers looks like a readily doable job,it is, but it's what's in your way to get at it makes it much more work.
Grady built the hull with an open boat, no liner, you are not.

Stringer rot usualy begins at the rear then extends forward, once water penetrates stringers, it has nowhere to go but sideways, each piece of wood contacts the next piece of wood, they are not isolated from each other.

As far as the transom goes, the entire rear is wood all the way up, you either cut the outer skin and work it from the outside or from the inside, on the inside the fish wells and battery platforms are in the way and it is very restrictive to work, vs. outside.
 
Hey BobP, your right i have not,
As of now all the work we have done have been to CC boats and access has always been easy, however I welcome the challenge and look forward to time well spent w/ the old man. I can access the transom w/o lifting the cap as Richie mentioned so thats a good sign, I drilled a few holes in front stringers and they came out ok, Ill try and post pics as the job gets going.

tks
 
Im in the same boat (literally)

Hi Captmig, I am in the same postion as you. Just bought an 1986 Sailfish on ebay for $2K. The tanks have been removed and the visible stringers and bulkheads around the tanks look like your pics. I am in Lantana; where are you? We may be able to help each other out. Still in the research stage like you.

Joe

jziegler@engineeredenvironmental.com

954-444-4977
 
BTW - Any chance you could email me that figure you have of the stringer/bulkhead layout. Where did you get that. I have been looking for something like that. Joe
 
Hello JZ

I was emailing Richie Rich and he told me you were in the same situation, although I paid double for my project.
I am down in Miami and have just started to rip up the decks, but my wood is worse than Richie's as it extends through the cockpit out to the cabin area.

I am not in a rush but hope to have her done by the winter , but the heat down here as you know can stop you from working till the afternoon. I called Grady White and got the diagram from them, I'll email it over to you tonight, I also have had a few emails back and forth w/ them on certain subjects pertaining to this rebuild. I had a choice of this or a Pursuit, but for some reason choose this, not sure if it was a good choice but I am in it till the end.

Rich sent me some good pics of his project so hopefully between the three of us we can share ideas, My email is captmig@hotmail.com

cya
 
It will be a fun project if you have the time, and time is the key word here. During the project if you feel you should have never started it, take a break( a long one if you have to) and continue.
You have to start and do something like this in order to do it the right way

IMG_0157.jpg


Make sure you don't do this

IMG_0151.jpg


and continue to gut the WHOLE boat FIRST.

Good luck, it's doable but you need patience.
 
FWIW, Vero beach, a member here, did the same thing on his boat not very long ago, see if you can contact him to give you an inside scoop on the Grady, the boat i'm doing is a little different(1981 Formula F233), but the idea is the same. Now, as far as the cored sides, that can be a challenge.
 
Re: Hello JZ

captmig said:
I called Grady White and got the diagram from them, I'll email it over to you tonight, I also have had a few emails back and forth w/ them on certain subjects pertaining to this rebuild.

Rich sent me some good pics of his project so hopefully between the three of us we can share ideas
Click to expand...

Maybe between the 3 boats we can build one really well and split the time....since I'm furthest from the equator, I'll take May-August, JZ from Sept-Dec and Capt from Jan-April being he's in the Miami Heat 8)

Seriously though, Capt, can you also send me the diagram from GW?

NEM, I thought I'd never have to see that finger again....thanks.. :shock:

I believe it's Vero Wing (from Vero Beach) who did his transom....he posted his project on this site before. Came out nice.
 
Will send over Rich, Your pics gave me some good ideas. Anyone have any experience cutting up the cabin as BobP mentioned in his post or pics?

I am inclined to keep going and gut the whole thing since I am already doing 3/4 of the boat.
 
You should look for the deck seams that are sealed with silicone like the one between the deck and fishbox I pictured and cut along there to break up the pieces...then you'll have to cut along the rub rail and seperate the liner/deck and hull there....and somehow lift it off....you will need a hoist or lots of friends because that will be heavy...but you can't release it until you cut the stringer tops from the liner along the entire hull. If you don't want to bother with the deck joint at the rub rail, then you will have to cut along the walk around area and then reglass that, fair it and paint....thats a lot more work.......I would try and stay below deck as much as possible....even if you cut below there, it won't be so visible later on
 
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