96 232 Ball Valve on Seacock

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Harpoon

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I have seized ball valve on my raw water intake. What a PITA getting down there to remove that thing. Anybody have any tips ? I've been trying to get a pipe wrench on it and can't make it happen.

Any suggestions are appreciated. I'm trying to avoid cutting with a 4" grinder.
 
Does your handle have a square hole in it? If so, that's so you can put a ratchet into it. How about the handle - is yours reversible to the other side? You can try tapping it as you turn - sometimes the shockwaves of the tapping/knocking can help loosen it. You can also try gently heating it up. In the future, "exercise" the seacock once a month and it "shouldn't" freeze up on you.
 
Thanks, I may give it a try with a ball peen hammer to see if I can get it moving. I need to dangle a midget by his feet into the bilge under the transom seat, LOL. Its tough to access and there is very little swinging or turning room near the valve.

I generally do open and close ball valves to keep them free... just bough this thing about 6 weeks ago. PO did a nice job maintaining most things but he was mobility-challenged.
 
The ball valve is junk, so I need to unthread it from the intake. The valve has a hex top and bottom on it. My plan is to drop a long socket over it and unscrew it with a breaker bar or impact wrench from the top.
 
Since you probably can't get another wrench on the thru hull fitting to "hold it back", use the impact gun - it'll be less stress on the thru-hull (should be, anyway) and less likely to turn the thru-hull, which would break the seal. Or... it might just turn the whole thing! Unless you can get someone underneath to hold the thru-hull -- does it have the "pins" for a thru-hull tool (or crossed screwdrivers)?
 
The intake screen is thru bolted with 4 stainless machine screws and nylon backed nuts. I don't think it will spin. If it does the entire assembly will need to come out. Cut, Cut, Cut !
 
The old valve came out easily with a cordless impact driver. Interesting Grady had a plastic hose barb rather than brass.
Changed oil, lower unit oil, water pump. Next the sender on the auxiliary tank, and my fall punch list is just about done.
 
Have you had the boat since new? Maybe a previous owner changed it out to plastic? However, if it's made out of Marelon, then it's OK. Otherwise, it NEEDS to be changed ASAP. Regular plastic (nylon or PVC, for example) CAN NOT be used in that application.
 
Its brass now. with a nice new ball valve.
 
Sounds good. Just be sure that the hose barb is bronze and not the type of brass fitting you would buy at home centers. Brass is NOT the same as bronze. Brass has a higher zinc content and will start to dissolve/corrode. I believe that there is a type of brass that is OK - I think it's called red, leaded brass? But I'm not 100% positive on that.
 
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