99 225 Yamaha OX66 Lower Unit Oil

[MDRookie01]

What do you guys recommend for Lower Unit Oil for my 99 225 Yamaha OX66..

The boat has been sitting since 2005, so I was think I should change this out before I get on the water.. Also wanted to change out the Fuel Water Separator..

Which Separator would you recommend, also?

 

[gw204]

Amsoil Synthetic Marine Gear Lube or Merc. Premium Plus in the lower unit.

Yamaha or Racor 3213 for the water separator.

 

[BobP]

If the lower unit fluid was changed when it was pulled prior to storage in 2005, no problem with oil.

Racor and Yamaha sell 10 micron gas/water seperators.

What about water pump, VST filter, plugs, etc?

What about the fuel that's in the boat's fuel tank after all these years? That's you biggest problem. Is ethanol in your area? Was it the same in 2005?

Don't expect the filter to fix the gas.

Have all the gas pumped out, there are services that can be hired for this. I'd go even as far as pullinbg the level sensor and suck out any residual.
Then when new ethanol gas goes in, change filter after 1 & 2nd tank loads, ethanol will be cleaning you tank walls free of charge.

RingFree and Startron or Marine Stabil in all fuel from now on.

It's a whole new marine world out there thanks to ethanol.

 

[MDRookie01]

Thanks Guys..

There is very little fuel left is the tank.. May 5 gallons in the 94 gallon tank.. No ethanol back in 05.. but the gas take was replaced in 05 too.. Probably only had 2 or 3 tank fulls of gas.. All gas lines and everything was replaced with tank..

Plugs and pump are all good/newer.. VST Filter I will have to check..

I was planning on running some 92 fuel with Startron in the first tank with a new Fuel Water seperater... Then was told the change the fitler again, like you said..

I would like to avoid having the take pumped since it is only a few gallons..

 

[seasick]

When and if you change the lower unit oil ( I use Yamaha gearcase oil) there are a few things that you should do.
Replace the fiber washers.
Make sure you put the plug with the magnetic tip in the bottom hole.
Use a little anti-sieze on the plug threads.
Also note that many of the yamis lower units take 33 ounces of oil, so pick up 2 quarts..

By the way, I can't imagine someone 'borrowing' your oil but I can see a seal leak in the upper end of the lower unit that lets oil leak when the motor is raised. To check the seals you need to have a pressure/vacum test performed when the lower case is drained.

 

[catch22]

Yamaha brand for the lower unit oil.

As Seasick mentioned, it holds a little more than a quart, so you might want to buy it by the gallon and get the larger hand pump. It's faster too.

Racor gets my vote for the filter/seperator, (with the clear bowl). You don't have to purchase a filter housing. They make one for just about every brand, (see chart).

Here's a good source for Racor filters.
B32013, (filter and bowl) - http://www.marinefilters.com/productdet ... er=WB32013
S3213, (filter only) - http://www.marinefilters.com/filterelem ... tid=WS3213

 

[fishingFINattic]

Racor gets my vote for the filter/seperator, (with the clear bowl). You don't have to purchase a filter housing. They make one for just about every brand, (see chart).

Here's a good source for Racor filters.
B32013, (filter and bowl) - http://www.marinefilters.com/productdet ... er=WB32013
S3213, (filter only) - http://www.marinefilters.com/filterelem ... tid=WS3213

This is some really good advice here!

I would not add ANY fuel to that boat until these were installed -

When I switched to E10 I went thru three of these filter is less than 10 hours of run time! I honestly believe that if that gunk made it into my motors I would of lost one!

Tim

 

[MDRookie01]

This is some great advice!!

fishingFINattic,
How did you determine it was time to change? Did you have the clear bowl, which kept filling up?

I was planning on buying 2 or 3 and continue to change.

 

[Grog]

If you have an outboard use the clear bowl. You can see the junk or water collect on the bottom and drain it when needed. When they're clogged you'll know, the engine will not rev up.

I use regular automotive gear oil and change it yearly. You may get 2 years out of the gaskets but don't push it, they're cheap to replace and costly when they fail.

 

[BobP]

Buy a 6 gallon poly gas can at your local auto barn, pump out all the remaining gas and use it in your lawnmower instead.

 

[seasick]

If you have an outboard use the clear bowl. You can see the junk or water collect on the bottom and drain it when needed. When they're clogged you'll know, the engine will not rev up.

.

I don't want to start a heated discussion again but here we go!
According to a very knowledgeable marine surveyor that i know, the plastic bowl Racor filter is not Coast Guard approved for below deck installation even for outboard applications. I asked Grady about this and they said they were unfamiliar with Racor filters. I tried emailing Racor but was unsuccessful.
One fact is that the plastic see through bowl definitely does not meet the Caost Guards requirement for flame retardation. The big question is whether that requirement holds for outboards.
So, lets hear it agin folks!

 

[catch22]

If you have an outboard use the clear bowl. You can see the junk or water collect on the bottom and drain it when needed. When they're clogged you'll know, the engine will not rev up.

.

I don't want to start a heated discussion again but here we go!
According to a very knowledgeable marine surveyor that i know, the plastic bowl Racor filter is not Coast Guard approved for below deck installation even for outboard applications. I asked Grady about this and they said they were unfamiliar with Racor filters. I tried emailing Racor but was unsuccessful.
One fact is that the plastic see through bowl definitely does not meet the Caost Guards requirement for flame retardation. The big question is whether that requirement holds for outboards.
So, lets hear it agin folks!

"Technically", I think you are correct. The plastic bowl is for above deck. The metal bowl is for below deck where a heat source may be near by, i. e. inboard motor. However, in reality I think many boaters, (including myself) use the plastic bowl below deck, with outboards, (no heat source). The way I look at it, you already have "soft" rubber fuel lines, primer bulbs, etc under deck. Plus, there's the trade off of having it outside, exposed to the elements. I do respect what your saying though. If there was a fire below deck, the plastic bowl wouldn't last too long, so with that said, The safest bet would be to use the metal bowl. You can still drain it, you just can't visually inspect it.

 

[Grog]

If you have an outboard use the clear bowl. You can see the junk or water collect on the bottom and drain it when needed. When they're clogged you'll know, the engine will not rev up.

.

I don't want to start a heated discussion again but here we go!
According to a very knowledgeable marine surveyor that i know, the plastic bowl Racor filter is not Coast Guard approved for below deck installation even for outboard applications. I asked Grady about this and they said they were unfamiliar with Racor filters. I tried emailing Racor but was unsuccessful.
One fact is that the plastic see through bowl definitely does not meet the Caost Guards requirement for flame retardation. The big question is whether that requirement holds for outboards.
So, lets hear it agin folks!

If you have an outboard they're OK, ask another surveyor and see what answer you get. Will the hoses meet the same retardation? If you have a fire in the bilge, the least of your worries is the flame retatdation of your fuel filter.

 

[seasick]

If you have an outboard use the clear bowl. You can see the junk or water collect on the bottom and drain it when needed. When they're clogged you'll know, the engine will not rev up.

.

I don't want to start a heated discussion again but here we go!
According to a very knowledgeable marine surveyor that i know, the plastic bowl Racor filter is not Coast Guard approved for below deck installation even for outboard applications. I asked Grady about this and they said they were unfamiliar with Racor filters. I tried emailing Racor but was unsuccessful.
One fact is that the plastic see through bowl definitely does not meet the Caost Guards requirement for flame retardation. The big question is whether that requirement holds for outboards.
So, lets hear it agin folks!

If you have an outboard they're OK, ask another surveyor and see what answer you get. Will the hoses meet the same retardation? If you have a fire in the bilge, the least of your worries is the flame retatdation of your fuel filter.

My surveyor friend does a lot of insurance claim work. If he finds a non comliant installation in a vessel that had a fire, he reports that to the insurance company. What the insurance company does with that info is anybody's guess.
I also believe that the marine fuel hoses do met the regulations for flame retardation.
I have seen factory installed Racors with the plastic bowl on outboards but they were installed in the engine well.

 

[BobP]

If you place a racor plastic bowl filter in the bilge above an electrical device and as a result a fire occurs, guess who screwed up and who can't be sued?

In the bilge of your outboard powered boat presuming no engine driven generators or the like in the bilge:

What is the source of the flame or heat that's going to melt the bowl ?
What would happen if the filter leaked from the bowl ?
Fire Yes or No?

If you are concerned with insurance matters, have the Coast Guard aux do a courtesy inspection, as they did my boat and asked to see the batteries and bilge, right in their face were the two racor plastic bowls. The Coast Guard does not do inspections by me, only Coast Guard Aux.