I have a 84 Trophy 25' with 2 2000 Evenrude 175's ,I am in the process of finishing what my father inlaw started as he has passed away ,I need to replace all Batteries it is wired for three, two starter & one deep cycle. My good freind is dieing to go fishing he brought me over a new Optima Blue Top Dual Purpose marine battery are the Optima's a good battery to go with? & is three batteries enough ,Also the boat needs to be rewired completly take out all excisting wiring & start new ,I know a guy he's super sharp & maticules ? super clean work he quoted me $2000 & using all aircraft wiring & nickle plated fittings ect. Thanks for any feed back Ken
A couple of questions
- Thread starter oldschool
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Optima's are good and 3 batteries should be fine. I have spoken to battery reps regarding the type of batteries for type of service and they recommend marine starting batteries for the engine and deep cycle for the electronics...they say its the "Optimum" set up...some folks use deep cycle all the way around....
As far as the wiring...not sure what aircraft grade means but ABYC/CG regs call for marine grade "tinned" wire. If you ever get spot checked they may look for the marine grade label on the wire.....the wire is specifically made to resist the effects of saltwater, both in the copper and the sheathing. I would stick with it.
As far as the wiring...not sure what aircraft grade means but ABYC/CG regs call for marine grade "tinned" wire. If you ever get spot checked they may look for the marine grade label on the wire.....the wire is specifically made to resist the effects of saltwater, both in the copper and the sheathing. I would stick with it.
Couple of questions
Thanks for the info on the batteries,Have you ever herd of a price to rewire a boat like mine,Ken
Thanks for the info on the batteries,Have you ever herd of a price to rewire a boat like mine,Ken
Ken, thats a very subjective question as pulling wire varies from boat to boat due to length and type of equipment. Is it a full rewire? front to back, main power and accessories, installing new electronics or pulling out and reconnecting the old??etc I did a 26 footer from scratch a few years ago and it took 3 full weekends but that included new electronics and a fuse panel with toggles. It takes time to neatly run the wire, crimp and heat shrink the terminations, install fuse blocks, etc.....the cost of the material will be 200-400 just for the right wire, terminals, grommets, shrink tubing, battery connectors. That would leave 1600 for labor....if he is charging you 50/hr thats 32 hours of labor..thats 2 full weekends or 3 so so weekends...sounds about right....you should get a quote from your Grady dealer just to measure up.........just make sure you use the right material and he follows marine regs when doing the install...color codes, crimping not soldering etc....good luck! Post some pictures when your done.
Thanks for all the info how can I find out what the Marine Regs & color codes are ,I wasnt aware it coundnt be solderd Ken
Ken, I need to clarify, solder can't be the only means of connection...ie they either need to be a crimp, crimp and solder, but never just solder as the solder can corrode and the crimp will be the last thing holding it together....without it, the connector falls off easily from corrosion. For a quick reference, go on the Anchor web site...actually its Marinco.com and look for ABYC standards...it will tell you color codes, wire sizing, connection type etc. Very good reference and they have a Q&A forum.
http://www.marinco.com/page/abyc-standards
http://www.marinco.com/page/abyc-standards
Hookup1
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Wiring
Solder connection don't corrode. The purpose of the stranded wire is to allow for flexiability and vibration. The solder wicks into the stranded wire and makes it solid. Use a good crimp tool and marine grade tinned wire.
Solder connection don't corrode. The purpose of the stranded wire is to allow for flexiability and vibration. The solder wicks into the stranded wire and makes it solid. Use a good crimp tool and marine grade tinned wire.
Hookup,
I'd have to disagree on the soldered connections not corroding. I have seen plenty of soldered connectios let go due to corrosion. Between the exposure to to sea air, battery acid gases and current, nothing is corrosion free. Marine wire that is tinned slows down the process but still ends up corroded over time. The connectors are tinned and still turn green. Its slow and steady, but its there. If you can see the backs of older switch panels that have soldered ends, they are corroded, same goes for battery cable terminals. Even cars that come with soldered battery cables ends from the factory get corroded and need replacement. Your running and deck light bulb terminals and sockets are tinned/soldered and they corrode needing replacement every few years.
A newly soldered connector on a battery cable is super tough. Every square inch of surface is bonded, yet the ABYC reg's say you can't rely on this as a sole connection, but you can rely on a simple crimp as a sole connection as only severe corrosion will give enough mechanical slop in the connector to let go. As soon as a soldered connection loses bond between the wire and connector, it simply falls out. Even gold plated nuts/bolts used for Dynaplate installation begin to corrode in just a few years. Crimped is good, crimped and soldered even better, soldered only....not so good.
I'd have to disagree on the soldered connections not corroding. I have seen plenty of soldered connectios let go due to corrosion. Between the exposure to to sea air, battery acid gases and current, nothing is corrosion free. Marine wire that is tinned slows down the process but still ends up corroded over time. The connectors are tinned and still turn green. Its slow and steady, but its there. If you can see the backs of older switch panels that have soldered ends, they are corroded, same goes for battery cable terminals. Even cars that come with soldered battery cables ends from the factory get corroded and need replacement. Your running and deck light bulb terminals and sockets are tinned/soldered and they corrode needing replacement every few years.
A newly soldered connector on a battery cable is super tough. Every square inch of surface is bonded, yet the ABYC reg's say you can't rely on this as a sole connection, but you can rely on a simple crimp as a sole connection as only severe corrosion will give enough mechanical slop in the connector to let go. As soon as a soldered connection loses bond between the wire and connector, it simply falls out. Even gold plated nuts/bolts used for Dynaplate installation begin to corrode in just a few years. Crimped is good, crimped and soldered even better, soldered only....not so good.