I'm looking at a 248 Voyager to possibly purchase and this particular boat has a porti potti with a self contained holding tank. My 208 Adventure had the same thing and it is a setup I don't want on the new rig. In fact it's one of many reasons for upgrading to something larger. I know it is an option on this particular model (when built) to have the head with a holding tank with pumpout. Does anybody know if this can be done as an aftermarket by a Grady dealer? Having a head with holding tank is very important with the family (wife and 2 daughters) being onboard quite a bit. Thanks!
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Adding a head & holding tank??
- Thread starter Scale Chaser
- Start date
It would be just the small holding tank that is attached to the bottom of the porta potti. I'm trying to avoid having to walk up the dock after each trip with the porta potti in tow to clean it out some how at home. Then remember it each time I head back down to the dock. It's not good if it's forgotten with daughters age 2 & 4. I might just have to seriously look at the GW Islander model as my #1 choice.
4/0
Member
I have a 232g Gulfstream that I am redoing. It came from GW with a porti-potti rigged for MSD for the CG.
I replaced the macerator pump and also have replaced every hose in the boat (1992). I just ordered this one for a replacement for this year. http://search.defender.com/search.aspx? ... 47&x=7&y=4
This next winter I will install a 7-10 gallon holding tank with a head but this will work for this year.
You will need several things to add a macerator pump including a 3/4" thru-hull and a 5/8" vent. I have heard (do not know) that you cannot discharge in the Great lakes. I am looking at where you are at in your sig. and guessing this.
Pumpouts would not be as difficult to install.
Butch
I replaced the macerator pump and also have replaced every hose in the boat (1992). I just ordered this one for a replacement for this year. http://search.defender.com/search.aspx? ... 47&x=7&y=4
This next winter I will install a 7-10 gallon holding tank with a head but this will work for this year.
You will need several things to add a macerator pump including a 3/4" thru-hull and a 5/8" vent. I have heard (do not know) that you cannot discharge in the Great lakes. I am looking at where you are at in your sig. and guessing this.
Pumpouts would not be as difficult to install.
Butch
Thanks for the info 4/0. You are correct you cannot discharge into the Great Lakes. In fact if a boat is setup with this option it needs to be disconnected. The Coasties will not be happy if your boarded and this is still functional and they do random boardings alot where I live. Most of the local marinas have a pump out station like a campground facility would. Thanks for the info!
Brad
Brad
4/0
Member
Well in that case then it would be easier on you. The unit that I posted the link to has a 5 gallon holding tank and one of the other reasons I bought it was that it has a pump up tank, no battieries. It pumps up like a garden sprayer and when they ( your girls, my wife) push the button it washes the bowl. They do not have to pump it and the other ones use AA batteries.
You would need to run a 1 1/2" hose to the deck for the waste pumpout and also run a 5/8" vent line for odor. Would not have to deal with a bottom thru-hull so that would be nice and also you would not need the macerator pump. You just saved 300.00 and a lot of headache.
You will want a very high above the waterline vent loop with a vent spring on it. I picked up vent springs at a hose supply here. They are there to keep the hose from kinking and you want loop as high as you can get it to prevent water from siphoing (sp?) back into the boat.
Butch
You would need to run a 1 1/2" hose to the deck for the waste pumpout and also run a 5/8" vent line for odor. Would not have to deal with a bottom thru-hull so that would be nice and also you would not need the macerator pump. You just saved 300.00 and a lot of headache.
You will want a very high above the waterline vent loop with a vent spring on it. I picked up vent springs at a hose supply here. They are there to keep the hose from kinking and you want loop as high as you can get it to prevent water from siphoing (sp?) back into the boat.
Butch
BobP
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Scale, as the members are writing, Grady does equip smaller boats with a Sanipottie but the model has the pump-out withdrawal tube and fitting - built in, so the base stays put and the upper portion holds the flush water as usual. 5 gallon base make it a few inches taller than 2.5 gallon base and can go longer between pump-outs.
The Sanipottie has a bellows hand pump no electric needed.
Then inside the boat the 1.5 inch hose coming out of the sanipottie in your case would go to a deck fitting for the pump out, mine is in the walkaround floor. And yes, vent fitting is needed thru the hull side (5/8 inch).
Normal factory equipped Sanipottie system has a Selector Y valve with one side going to deck pump out, the other going to macerator pump with the 3/4 inch outlet hose leaving the boat via a thru hull out the bottom of the hull, for use more than 3 miles off shore - at least off the Atlantic shore where I am.
If you don't put the deck fitting in for pump out, I guess you can keep short or coiled and and bring in the facility hose into the cabin.
You really don't need the vent line if you remember to keep the flush valve open when pumping out, otherwise I imagine what's going to happen to the waste tank when it starts to be sucked and collapses.
For nicer toilets made of porcelain like at home - called marine heads and step up to a vacuflush system - require must more space for the larger components, you then do need the larger boat like a Gulfstream or Islander. In addition to the toilet, I have a 14 gallon holding tank, macerator pump, pressurized FW feed from the ship's FW system, vacuum generator storage tank unit. At more style, one pays more for the system. The cost of the level detector for the waste tank, or macerator pump alone, is more than the entire sanipottie.
The Sanipottie has a bellows hand pump no electric needed.
Then inside the boat the 1.5 inch hose coming out of the sanipottie in your case would go to a deck fitting for the pump out, mine is in the walkaround floor. And yes, vent fitting is needed thru the hull side (5/8 inch).
Normal factory equipped Sanipottie system has a Selector Y valve with one side going to deck pump out, the other going to macerator pump with the 3/4 inch outlet hose leaving the boat via a thru hull out the bottom of the hull, for use more than 3 miles off shore - at least off the Atlantic shore where I am.
If you don't put the deck fitting in for pump out, I guess you can keep short or coiled and and bring in the facility hose into the cabin.
You really don't need the vent line if you remember to keep the flush valve open when pumping out, otherwise I imagine what's going to happen to the waste tank when it starts to be sucked and collapses.
For nicer toilets made of porcelain like at home - called marine heads and step up to a vacuflush system - require must more space for the larger components, you then do need the larger boat like a Gulfstream or Islander. In addition to the toilet, I have a 14 gallon holding tank, macerator pump, pressurized FW feed from the ship's FW system, vacuum generator storage tank unit. At more style, one pays more for the system. The cost of the level detector for the waste tank, or macerator pump alone, is more than the entire sanipottie.