Anti-fouling Paint Question

[Fishin' Rod]

I just finished reading some information on painting the bottom of my boat. One of the things that I learned is that there is a time span to launching the boat after the bottom has been painted. I wasn't aware of this. I am looking for some sugestions for choosing a paint due to the large amount of barnacles I had growing on my hull and the beard on my trim tabs. I did use a paint bought from West Marine especially for the trim tabs along with keeping the bottom paint 1" distance from all attachments on the hull.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Rod

 

[CaptKennyW]

Maybe i missed it. Whats the question?

 

[Reel Soon]

SAY WHAT? I used interlux :lol:

 

[BobP]

Some of the paints have maximum out of water time following painting, like 2 weeks or 30 days, and also when out of water for a period of time, have to be repainted.

Interlux Micron Extra can launch anytime after painting, and leave out as long as one cares to w/o having to repaint. Not a cheap paint though.

Read the can of your choice, that's where the information is you are looking for.

 

[Fishin' Rod]

Some of the paints have maximum out of water time following painting, like 2 weeks or 30 days, and also when out of water for a period of time, have to be repainted.

Interlux Micron Extra can launch anytime after painting, and leave out as long as one cares to w/o having to repaint. Not a cheap paint though.

Read the can of your choice, that's where the information is you are looking for.

How about my Trim Tabs?

 

[BobP]

For anything painted with bottom paint.

Read paint can instructions.

 

[Fishin' Rod]

For anything painted with bottom paint.

Read paint can instructions.

I was told that bottom paint would create electrolysis and corrode any metal such as the screws that mount the trim tans to the hull. Actually when I bought this boat one of the trim tabs fell off right in my hand because of this problem. Is there any truth to this?

 

[BobP]

Now I misunderstood your original request.

Trim tabs are stainless steel as well as their hardware. I use Micron Extra on them too, not just fiberglass. I also use Micron Extra on the non-metallic actuators, FF transducers, bronze thruhulls. What I don't use it on is aluminum. Whatever the out of water time or time to launch is, per instructions on paint can, nothing to do with tab material.

When it comes to aluminum, there are paints that can't and can be used. Read labels. Interlux trilux is for aluminum, too.

If you have galvanic damage to the trim tabs or hardware, or any other part of the boat the most important is the engine and thru hulls, it has to be identified and mitigated.

With respect to tabs, I use zinc blocks made specific for the Bennets that affix where the two bolts from the actuator connect. My Grady Drive has a large zinc, and the (alum) engines each have their own massive zinc. At the end of the season, not one zinc is to be wasted fully. If so, you have to replace it with a larger zinc, second zinc near first, or pull the boat mid season and change them.

 

[Bob's Cay]

There are really two types of bottom paints as I understand it. A hard bottom paint and an ablative paint. The hard bottom paint contains copper which provides the antifouling properties. The ablative paint actually wears out over time, like a bar of soap. That is how it provides antifouling.

The ablative paints generally can be hauled and relaunched without issues. They are also easy to repaint - just power wash and light sanding if you want. Interlux Micron Extra is an ablative paint.

Both Interlux and Petit have websites that can help you choose the right one for your boat. They will also tell you which paints can be used over the other.

BTW - I have used Micron Extra for about 6 years and was pleased. Just had the bottom repainted with Petit Vivid (black) this time. Have not launched yet but the Petit has a better "finish". Just seems to have more gloss and a deeper color.

 

[Grog]

If your trim tabs corroded that badly, there's something else going in like a faulty shore power. The paint should not effect stainless.

 

[Fishin' Rod]

If your trim tabs corroded that badly, there's something else going in like a faulty shore power. The paint should not effect stainless.

Since I've replaced the tabs I haven't had a problem. When I bought the boat the guy I hired to go over the engine and boat told me that was the reason that the previous owner's trim tabs wee falling off of the transom. The mounting screws for the tabs had corroded and had broke off.

 

[plymouthgrady]

bottom paint

Both hard and ablative paints are good choices for the N.E. but hard paints
will produce a "paint build-up" over the years creating unnecessary weight and drag. It also has a window in which you must splash. Ablative paints just need to be sanded and touched up year to year and you can splash whenever you want. (Paint an opposite color indicator coat). when your undercoat begins to show, you're just touching up areas instead of painting the entire botom ($$$).
If your boat sits for weeks b/t uses, I recommend a hard paint b/c it works through leetching (releases cuprous oxide) while inactive.
Ablative paints wear away from friction as the boat goes through water.
I do not recommend putting any bottom paint on any underwater running gear.(through hulls, intake scoops, 'ducers, tabs). Use paint specifically designed for underwater metal. It will pit.
WHATEVER PAINT YOU DECIDE TO GO WITH, BUY THE PAINT WITH THE HIGHEST COPPER CONTENT W/ A BIOCIDE (KILLS SLIME) THAT YOU CAN AFFORD.

 

[uncljohn]

I am in the process of repainting w/ Petiti Ultima SR ($189/gal). It has an indefinite launch time, so it truly is 'multi-season' and can be hauled, stored, and launched w/out any repainting. Most other ablatives have a 60 day max, meaning you have to repaint before each year or else you lose anti-fouling qualities.(I think Micron CSC is the only other one w/ indefinite launch time)

The Trilux I use on my bracket needs to be redone each year.