Axle repaired!

Lol...sorry you got skunked;)

This will get resolved. If it had just been me, eh...irked, but not a big deal. I had people with me and they wanted to fish so...felt bad for them.

So, I already got a response from the trailer guy and as soon as I hear back, I will either get a new trailer lol, or order the actuator.

Next possible launch date will be May 23rd, so, cross your fingers.

Russ
 
RussGW270 said:
Agreed, but right now, I know the 2nd axle needs replacing.

When we replaced the front axle, it offset the middle of the double springs and pulling it did not fix that. Now, springs really are not that expensive to repair so, in for a dime... just need to figure out if I can/should/will it help to upgrade from 4-leaf springs to 5-leaf.

Good to know about the trailer costs. I will have to factor that all in.

since I know I can get an actuator for about $360 with shipping, and an axle for about $580, and the springs for about $230, that is my budget and...it means another 2-3 months on the sidelines, max. So, is what it is. That is probably the route I will have to go.

Now, IF I can get a brand new trailer, then that would be nice, but I am not against repairing this one....just not going to piecemeal it...the entire trailer gets an overhaul this time...heh.

in the meantime, I will continue to make whatever improvements I can with the Grady....get her a good wax etc. oh, got the vhf lines working albeit the old vhf will transmit but not receive....probably an easy fix of the squelch control.

Tried filling the potable water tank...seemed like it was full but I emptied it...so may be a backflush valve or something. Wish they had a damn indicator.
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Hey Russ, I don’t know buddy, Parthery is right. The price of a new trailer will be a gut punch for sure. I have a triple axle for my 30 Marlin that I thought of replacing then I got a few quotes to the tune of 10-12k just to get started! Plan B, I’m going to fix the damn thing and move on. It’s 15yrs old but if I put $2-3 grand into it hopefully I can get 10 more seasons out of it. If your $3-5 hundred from splashing the boat, it might be worth it! Just sayn.
 
seasick said:
What is the origin of that ditty?
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I made it up one day a long time ago, but sure someone else has said it as well.

I can be impatient at times, helps me with perspective o_O
 
Shannon C. said:
Hey Russ, I don’t know buddy, Parthery is right. The price of a new trailer will be a gut punch for sure. I have a triple axle for my 30 Marlin that I thought of replacing then I got a few quotes to the tune of 10-12k just to get started! Plan B, I’m going to fix the damn thing and move on. It’s 15yrs old but if I put $2-3 grand into it hopefully I can get 10 more seasons out of it. If your $3-5 hundred from splashing the boat, it might be worth it! Just sayn.
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Hi Shannon,
My practical side agrees with both you and Parthery,
I got quotes last fall for a new trailer, and wouldn't take the bait.
Then my hand got forced, unfortunately after I spent 850 bucks on new guides, steps, and springs just before I had to bite the bullet.
Hindsight I could have put that wasted money into my new trailer, but I wanted to squeeze more time out of it.
Thing with Russ that is different from my situation (and I believe yours also) is that he has to trailer his boat 4 hours to the coast of Texas to dip it saltwater.
That's a major consideration I would think.
No easy answers, but if I were in his shoes I would probably replace the actuator and hope for the best.
The reality is at some point all trailers become financially unserviceable-i.e. takes a lot more money to maintain and upkeep due to the age vs just buying a new trailer.
Nobody gets excited about spending $$$ on trailers because it doesn't seem like any bang for the buck.

At the end of the day, it might be wise to just run the numbers on what might be a few years maintenance vs buying new right away. I would love it if trailers could last 25 years, but I think 20 is reasonable if well maintained. My 2 cents ;)
 
Sorry to hear about the brake issues. If you need to move the trailer a short distance you can lock out the brakes by running a bolt through the front of the surge actuator. I had to do that when I picked up the boat and the trailer had a 5-flat connector instead of a 7-pin.

image.jpg
 
leeccoll said:
Hi Shannon,
My practical side agrees with both you and Parthery,
I got quotes last fall for a new trailer, and wouldn't take the bait.
Then my hand got forced, unfortunately after I spent 850 bucks on new guides, steps, and springs just before I had to bite the bullet.
Hindsight I could have put that wasted money into my new trailer, but I wanted to squeeze more time out of it.
Thing with Russ that is different from my situation (and I believe yours also) is that he has to trailer his boat 4 hours to the coast of Texas to dip it saltwater.
That's a major consideration I would think.
No easy answers, but if I were in his shoes I would probably replace the actuator and hope for the best.
The reality is at some point all trailers become financially unserviceable-i.e. takes a lot more money to maintain and upkeep due to the age vs just buying a new trailer.
Nobody gets excited about spending $$$ on trailers because it doesn't seem like any bang for the buck.

At the end of the day, it might be wise to just run the numbers on what might be a few years maintenance vs buying new right away. I would love it if trailers could last 25 years, but I think 20 is reasonable if well maintained. My 2 cents ;)
Click to expand...
leeccoll said:
Hi Shannon,
My practical side agrees with both you and Parthery,
I got quotes last fall for a new trailer, and wouldn't take the bait.
Then my hand got forced, unfortunately after I spent 850 bucks on new guides, steps, and springs just before I had to bite the bullet.
Hindsight I could have put that wasted money into my new trailer, but I wanted to squeeze more time out of it.
Thing with Russ that is different from my situation (and I believe yours also) is that he has to trailer his boat 4 hours to the coast of Texas to dip it saltwater.
That's a major consideration I would think.
No easy answers, but if I were in his shoes I would probably replace the actuator and hope for the best.
The reality is at some point all trailers become financially unserviceable-i.e. takes a lot more money to maintain and upkeep due to the age vs just buying a new trailer.
Nobody gets excited about spending $$$ on trailers because it doesn't seem like any bang for the buck.

At the end of the day, it might be wise to just run the numbers on what might be a few years maintenance vs buying new right away. I would love it if trailers could last 25 years, but I think 20 is reasonable if well maintained. My 2 cents ;)
Click to expand...
I hear ya, I was working with Pacific Trailers in L.A. which I think that was the same place you got yours, I couldn’t believe the cost of just starting price!! Your right, I’m only a mile from the marina and what’s right for me is not going to be right for someone else. Maybe new is the way to go for a 4hr journey to splash that baby. Keep us updated Russ!!
 
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Russ,
Before you replace the master cyl make sure the calipers are not seizing but I think you said they are new, next time you replace calipers use Kodiak stainless steel, much cheaper in the long run.
You can replace the master cylinder in the actuator for about $100 but if you are going to spend $400 why not go EOH , you will never look back . You will need an electric controller in the truck and one of these : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trailer-Br...209727?hash=item5d81892e7f:g:v70AAOSw5K5dl-hA
www.ebay.com

Hydrastar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Marine Grade 1600psi for Boat Trailer | eBay

Hydrastars line of XTRA Duty Marine electric over hydraulic units are designed specifically for all the rigors a freshwater and saltwater boat trailer would undergo. Nothing compares to the response, and braking strength of an electric over hydraulic unit for disc brakes.
www.ebay.com

Just a thought .
If your trailer frame is still good and the trailer is not too light for the boat, replace the other axle ( I would have gone torsion , not springs)
If the bunks are good , winch OK and lights work not much else since you replaced the rotors and hubs.
If the trailer is on the light side for your boat , cut your losses now , bite the bullet and get a heavier duty trailer, dual axle not tri.
If you get a new trailer go well over with plenty spare capacity especially because you have to trailer long distances .
 
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Ordered a new actuator. The trailer place wanted like 557 plus tax and shipping.

Trailerparts dot com wanted like 386, but it would not get here for.. easily.. 2 weeks, more like 3-4, unless I paid almost $300 more.

I got etrailer to match the price and for 28 more, it already shipped and will be here Thursday.

The plan is, I now have the list of every single moving part on this trailer. The next part to be replaced will be the 2nd axle.

I need to understand the effect of upgrading a 4-leaf spring to a 5-leaf, if it needs it, but.. if it does, I have the parts listed for that AND... every single other moving part so.. heh.. one by one, I wil lturn the trailer into a brand new one, for under 2k, worse case.

Just will take time to replace the parts without my wife making me live in the boat ;)

R
 
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I think an electric over hydraulic is a long term goal. Right now, this Brings the total I have spent on this boat this month to well over 2k, with everything thrown in, about 1400 I did not plan for heh. So, to keep costs down, just going with the lowest price option I have. Not trying to be cheap, but I actually like being married :p

That being said, I think this is the best route. EoH being phase two;) Phase 1 being get it working and repaired heh.

Thanks for the input guys. Actuator shipped and all in for 428 with 3-day shipping.

R
 
That is the way to go. I,m into mine about 3k so far. A few parts here and there, and I'm still married. I do get the eye roll a lot though.
 
Nice to see you have some fun with her. You deserve it!
 
I don't think that you want to add a leaf, unless you change all 4 springs, that just compounds your equalizer puzzle. Make sure you have the right bolts on that assembly. Seasick was correct about not over tightening them. Those 5 shackle bolts should have short threads, and a shoulder, and you could move the shackle links by hand after they are assembled. If they are fully threaded, and you are cranking them tight, they are the wrong bolts.
The two most critical tools for working on an old trailer are, a cutting wheel on a grinder, and an impact wrench.
 
Was not adding a leaf, was debating in case I needed to replace the springs, what the effect would be. It would add height to the trailer. Not worth doing unless needed.
 
Just replaced springs shackles, equalizers, and bolts on my 6000lb. Road King trailer. All bolts had lock nuts with with thread stop so you could not over tighten the shackles All bolts had zerk fittings so the shackle could be greased on install and down the road. Needed an pneumatic impact wrench to remove old bolt springs. Sixteen years of salt water dipping (garage kept ) flushed after every use. They were still lots of spring left although quite rusty, but the shackles and bolts were getting thin. Made sense to replace all.
 
I got it.. it is raining.. flash flood... I will sit in the boat. When the boat rises off the trailer.. I will park it next to the barn and wait for the next rain!

lol
 
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New actuator installed. I still need to bleed the brake lines and then pull her around town to see how she works.

R
 

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Can't catch a break....

I went to bleed the lines.. the tip of the brand new 30' brake line is cracked. It must have been tightened too tight when it went back on or something. The first thread is cracked and so it has a slight leak.

55 bucks plus shipping. I think, rather than put it into the new solenoid, I will get a coupler and use that... so I never have to replace a damn line for this crap again. Taking it off and on each time I had to replace the MC.. must have been too much for it.

So, still down....
 
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