Batteries

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fellinger

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I am in need of new house and starting batteries for my 95 Sailfish 272. My house battery is on a separate isolated on/off switch and my two starting batteries each have their own Off, 1, 2 and both switches. I am running twin 200hp Johnsons. Currently the house battery is a marine deep cycle and the two starting batteries are marine deep cycle/starting batteries.

My manual says to not use deep cycle batteries but, does not specify a group or other type of battery. Has these recommendations changed over the years?

What is a good battery type to use for my house and starting?
 
Generally, I'm not a fan of the dual purpose batteries. Good idea, but it can't really be GREAT at both, you know? You can check the specs for your engines, but more than likely a battery with a CCA of 600-ish is more than enough. Deka makes excellent batteries and they have a very good Group 24 800CCA battery (it's OK to go bigger). For the house battery, bigger is better, as well. I'd go with at least a Group 27DC, if not 31. It all depends on how much you rely on the house battery. You could even go with two of them, wired in parallel, if you wanted to.
 
I have basically the same boat 1994 sailfish 272, I spend a lot of time out on the water and use battery power to it's limits .Most of the time the fish finder plus other items tend to drain the battery down to a very low level. This year i bought the Blue sea ACR units and will install them for this season, they link all battery's together to basically make one big battery. I feel this set up will cycle and keep all the battery's fresher to have the power i need when i have to use them. The trouble with start and house battery's , they do different things and not all way at equal levels. i have 4 battery's 2 start, 2 house, solar roof panels and a Honda small generator that runs the charger when everything fails. I would looking in to the blue seas ACR set up and see if that is something that you might want. Just my 2 cent worth of experience and learning the hard way that might help you out.
 
I agree with installing an ACR. Installed one in my 208 over a year ago along with an onboard battery charger. Mo more electronics shutting down after possible heavy draw on batteries (pulling prawn traps and down riggers). Occasionally check the battery water levels and that is it. :D cheers trapper
 
Thanks guys. How does this ACR differ from a system that allows both batteries to be run together or isolated along with an onboard charger?
 
Those of you using an ACR... I've never used an ACR and really only have a basic understanding of it. I use a 1-2-Both-Off battery switch (or multiple with twin engines) and feel that it does the same thing as an ACR. I can choose to draw off a particular battery and also choose which battery (or batteries) to charge. Does the ACR basically do the same thing, just automatically? Is there more to it that I'm not understanding? Is it much more expensive than a manual switch? What happens if it fails? Just wondering outloud! :)
 
Thanks for the link. I think, for me anyways, I'd stick with a good 'ol fashioned manual battery switch. No electronics to go bad... less expensive initial cost, too. It seems like the two ways do pretty much the same thing, just one is automatic. But, I do see why some like the auto method.
 
My big question is still what type of batteries.... My manual says they should not be deep cycle. I think this has to do with deep cycle are not supposed to always be on a charge. Mine will charge when running and when docked.

Any ideas?
 
DennisG01 said:
See my first reply to your question. Group 24 starting -- Group 27DC, or larger, for house.
Click to expand...

Missed that part. I see you're suggesting a deep cycle. Again, my manual says to not use them. I am not sure why other than I don't think DC's are supposed to be constantly charged, rather discharged and then recharged. Thoughts?
 
No, DC for the house side. Starting batteries for the engines. I agree with your manual that DC's are best not used for starting. They're made more for a gradual draw down and recharge - although they can be safely drawn down further than a starting battery.
 
Thanks for the help. I ordered Deka batteries from Lowes. They actually seemed like the cheapest route. I will look into the ACR.
 
At least if you got into a bind, you could pull start your motor(s). Not possible with the new four strokes. They need amperage to operate the ECU. I pulled started an OX66 waaaaay offshore once, LOL
 
Fellinger... just double checking... you got the "Marine Master" battery, right? Meaning, not a car battery?

Harpoon... pull starting a 250HP!?!? How did that go? Were you sore for the next three days? :)
 
DennisG01 said:
Fellinger... just double checking... you got the "Marine Master" battery, right? Meaning, not a car battery?

Harpoon... pull starting a 250HP!?!? How did that go? Were you sore for the next three days? :)
Click to expand...

Yes, they are the marine batteries.
 
Pull starting...just use a long rope and walk forward LOL..

I've had a single outboard boat and fished offshore since the 90's. 2 good DP group 24's have always been fine for me. I've had the best luck with premium die hard or premium napa marine. I always change both at once so they are evenly matched and take charge from the engine nearly the same. During long days at anchor the electronics and live well are running constantly. After a couple pull start incidences years ago I simply keep an eye on my voltage and run the engine at idle as needed no big deal with the 4stroke). I switch them about every 3 seasons but have gotten 4 out of them with no problem. I sand the connections and apply spray grease to minimize corrosion. One other thing I've noticed is the wing nuts can loosen up over time and you loose your connection... that battery gets no charge. Its a good idea to give them a little check once in a while.

Years ago I tried some Wal-Mart batteries (supposed to be premium) they didn't last.
 
Harpoon, replace the wing nuts with lock nuts, never a loose battery connection again. Cheers, trapper :D
 
Indeed, that is a good idea.... why don't I do that, I must ponder a bit. There are advantages to quick easy removal without a metal/conductive wrench..... I've had to pass batteries boat to boat in 3-4's to assist those who didn't pay attention a couple times LOL....
 
Harpoon, yes understood, I keep a small box-open end wrench on a cord tied and tucked in to the the battery box. If you are concerned about contact, pos-neg with the battery just cut it down to one ended wrench smaller size so the it can't make contact with either post or dip the whole wrench in that "Plastic Dip" https://plastidip.com Cheers, trapper
 
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