Bennett Tab issue

[Rustygaff]

Is there a trick for accessing the trim tab switch on my particular boat for servicing? When I press the upper half of the "starboard down" switch, the tab does not activate. I also cannot hear any relay "click" or any other mechanical noise when I try to activate that particular switch. The "port down" switch works fine. When depressed, I can hear a relay activating. When retracting, both switches activate the HPU so I assume they are working correctly.
I wish to check the contacts on the activation switch but Grady mounted below the binnacle which appears impossible to get at from below.

 

[Tuna Man]

Pull the plastic "ring" that surrounds the two switches (may be called an escutcheon) . It will expose the four Phillips head mounting screws that fasten the switch assembly to the fiberglass.

 

[devildogdad]

you might want to post on The Hull Truth website, There is a Bennett rep who is over there and he is very helpful.

 

[Rustygaff]

Tuna Man.....That makes sense. I did not want ant to pry up on the trim not knowing whether or not it was mounted from the top. All of the Bennett instructions I have found appear to have nuts on the underside that have to be tightened from below.

 

[Rustygaff]

you might want to post on The Hull Truth website, There is a Bennett rep who is over there and he is very helpful.

Tabman is very helpful but thought he frequents this site also. Thanks.

 

[Tabman]

Is there a trick for accessing the trim tab switch on my particular boat for servicing? When I press the upper half of the "starboard down" switch, the tab does not activate. I also cannot hear any relay "click" or any other mechanical noise when I try to activate that particular switch. The "port down" switch works fine. When depressed, I can hear a relay activating. When retracting, both switches activate the HPU so I assume they are working correctly.
I wish to check the contacts on the activation switch but Grady mounted below the binnacle which appears impossible to get at from below.

Rusty,

The keypad for the EIC must removed from the inside. But that may not be where the problem is. How old is the system?

Here is a link to the instructions for the EIC http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/EIC5000_instructions_May2014.pdf

Go to page 6 and do the troubleshooting "hot wire" test at the relay module and let me know what you find.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

 

[Tabman]

Pull the plastic "ring" that surrounds the two switches (may be called an escutcheon) . It will expose the four Phillips head mounting screws that fasten the switch assembly to the fiberglass.

Don't do this!!!! The display is fastened from below and you will damage it!

Tom
Bennett Marine

 

[Rustygaff]

The boat is a 2011 model originally delivered in 2012. Only been in the water for 3 previous summers. I will do the hotwire test and get back to you. Thanks for the very fast follow-up.

Is there a trick for accessing the trim tab switch on my particular boat for servicing? When I press the upper half of the "starboard down" switch, the tab does not activate. I also cannot hear any relay "click" or any other mechanical noise when I try to activate that particular switch. The "port down" switch works fine. When depressed, I can hear a relay activating. When retracting, both switches activate the HPU so I assume they are working correctly.
I wish to check the contacts on the activation switch but Grady mounted below the binnacle which appears impossible to get at from below.

Rusty,

The keypad for the EIC must removed from the inside. But that may not be where the problem is. How old is the system?

Here is a link to the instructions for the EIC http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/EIC5000_instructions_May2014.pdf

Go to page 6 and do the troubleshooting "hot wire" test at the relay module and let me know what you find.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

 

[Rustygaff]

Just took a ride over to the boat for a quick look. I finally located the HPU pump. GW buried it in the helm compartment behind a plywood partition in the storage area. It will be a job just getting at it since a fuse block and a few other odds and ends are mounted to the partition panel which most likely will have to be removed prior to pulling the panel. Will dig into it deeper next week when I have more time.
I mentioned in an earlier thread that my boat lists to the port an inch or 2. It just so happens the tab I need to level it out while running is the one that won't activate. Go figure. :bang

 

[Tuna Man]

I apologize for giving you bad information.

Last weekend I replaced a failed Euro switch assembly on our 2006 Marlin and I all I had to do was remove the outer plate and remove four phillips head screws from the dashboard.

Tom and the rest of the Bennett staff have helped me a few times over the years, they certainly stand by their products!

 

[Rustygaff]

I apologize for giving you bad information.

Last weekend I replaced a failed Euro switch assembly on our 2006 Marlin and I all I had to do was remove the outer plate and remove four phillips head screws from the dashboard.

Tom and the rest of the Bennett staff have helped me a few times over the years, they certainly stand by their products!

No problem. Owning and operating this boat is a daily learning experience.

 

[Rustygaff]

Tabman,
This morning I had a chance to get into my TT system. Once I removed the helm compartment partition I had access to the HPU and module. It's amazing where a 6 foot 200# guy can fit in a pinch but I was able to get inside the compartment to work. Oil was good and I managed to pull every plug connector apart and spray some electric contact cleaner in each set. No visible corrosion. The switch LED panel had a plug connector instead of terminal screws which was also cleaned.
With the spare module connector I jumped the blue/red (the 2 outside wires on the connector) with 12V and the tab activated. Now here is where I screwed up. For the 2nd test, I jumped the 2 inner wires (yellow/green)with 12V and the HPU activated but no tab movement. Figuring I had a bad switch, I buttoned everything up until I could obtain a replacement. I did not realize that I jumped the wrong wires until I got back home and re-read the troubleshooting guide.
But before leaving the boat, I took a shot at recalibrating. The tabs recalibrated and now both work normally. Could it be that the only issue I had was the need to recalibrate? Can the system require a recalibration without the alternating LED lights flashing a warning?
If all the system needed was a recalibration all my work was not in vain. It gave me the opportunity to familiarize myself with the inner workings. 8)

 

[Tabman]

Rusty,

Calibration is not necessary for the Tabs to operate. So I think the connections needed cleaning and that is why it is working now.

Glad to hear all is good!

Tom
Bennett Marine