Bilge float switch question

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Hokie

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have a 98 268 and am not sure the float switch has worked in a while as bilge stays dry mostly. replaced the pump and switch, pump works well using manual switch at helm, but can not get the new rule float switch to work.
wiring looks fine but is there a fuse for the switch somewhere? what could be wrong, the old float switch wont work either

thanks
Brian
 
I have a a 1998 228 and replaced mine this past summer.If you check your GW Owners Manual [wiring diagrams] it will show you it does have a fues.Mine is located in the starboard rear hatch.I upgraded my pump from a 1100gph to a 2000gph and had to use a larger fues.I called Grady in regards to the wiring and was told that I did not have to increase the wire gauge.I think I went from a 5 to a 10 amp fuse.
 
my new 2000 gl pump works fine but the switch does not.
is there a fuse for both the pump and switch??

thanks
 
Hokie said:
have a 98 268 and am not sure the float switch has worked in a while as bilge stays dry mostly. replaced the pump and switch, pump works well using manual switch at helm, but can not get the new rule float switch to work.
wiring looks fine but is there a fuse for the switch somewhere? what could be wrong, the old float switch wont work either

thanks
Brian
Click to expand...


Sometimes the wire from the float switch 'looks' great but it is shot inside or the switch is just NG.

Get a multimeter and test the wires themselves to see if you have power going to the switch. Then go from there.
 
Hokie said:
have a 98 268 and am not sure the float switch has worked in a while as bilge stays dry mostly. replaced the pump and switch, pump works well using manual switch at helm, but can not get the new rule float switch to work.
wiring looks fine but is there a fuse for the switch somewhere? what could be wrong, the old float switch wont work either

thanks
Brian
Click to expand...
 
How is it wired ? When both batteries
are off and the key
Is also off the pump should still work you should have 2 one on the key the other always on wired directly to hot wire
 
Note that the 12v feed for auto and manual is different. The auto feed comes directly from the battery and has an inline fuse that you should see near the battery.
The manual operation feed is connected to the fuse panel which is powered by the battery switch.
If manual works, the pump itself is good as is the ground(!)
So the feed for auto operation is bad. The first place to check for juice is at the in-line fuse near ( quite near) to the battery. If that is good, then the 12v connection to the pump is bad or corroded.
Pretty simple to trace.
By the way, the float switch if manual is easy to check with an digital voltmeter set to measure resistance. Connect the meter to the two leads and lift the float. The meter should read very low ohms. Lower the float and the meter should read an open circuit, very high resistance
 
Dang....!
Well at least my suggestions are still valid.

I am going to have to check post dates going forward; There seem to be more of those old posts being wakened up ( or is it woken up?)
 
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