I gave up. The boat is wired for a non-automatic bilge (2 wire) , so I ordered a larger non-automatic bilge pump. It should work from the helmet switch and the float switch. 2 wires from the bilge pump, 2 wires from the float switch, both sets disappear into the port side. I don't feel like rewiring so I'll go with the flow.Russ, you have inspired me to hunt down my problem. My forward bilge works from the helmet switch, will not work from the auto switch.
2 wires from the bilge pump, 2 wires from the float switch, both sets disappear into the port side. An auto pump has 3 wires. Without rewiring, an auto pump will not work. I'm not digging into the port wire loom. Just easier to order a 2 wire pump.By 'wired for a non automatic bilge pump', what are you referring to? If a bilge pump works automatically and manually, it has to have 2 12v feeds, one from the battery compartment (auto) and one from the helm(breaker or fuse off the accessory buss)
Are you missing a wire?
Bilge pumps without some sort of water level detection builtin will be two wire. Pumps for manual or auto with an external float switch will also have 2 wires from the pump. Some bilge pumps with a built in manual or electronic water level detection will have 3 wires.