Ok so neither one of my automatic bilge pump switchs are working forward or aft. They both work when I switch them to manual. I figured at least one would work. Is the forward bilge sealed off from the rest of the boat? It is very shallow but does have water in it. I did notice a hose that runs through the fuel tank area and seems sealed off from the fuel tank hatchs. Does that run from the floor drain in the cabin? There is also a plug that seals the gas tanks off from the bilge but it is inside the rear hatch. Oh yeah and why would there be water in the forward bilge anyway? There is no freshwater tank in the boat apparently they removed it at some point. I knew I would have a ton of questions for everyone. :shock:
Bilge pumps in a Grady!
- Thread starter Got Grady?
- Start date
My boat will always have some rain water in it bilge, and as soon as I hit a few bumps the auto switch kicks on. The float switches sometimes stick because of all the sand and dirt that ends up down there. You should clean the stuff out of the float switches every now and again. There are a few small holes that allow water to flow back to the rear bilge on a sailfish I would think they build them all the same. And if your boat haves a shower there’s a 3th pump that would work when the water was high enough to go over the shower tank holder.But I would get to the pumps and remove the screws remove the pump and check on the float switches.
I didnt remove the float switchs, just moved them up and down hoping they would kick on. If I hit the manual switch on the dash they will both work so the next step will be to do as you say and remove and clean everything. First I have to take care of the fuel leak. I would say if there is a drain to the back it must be plugged up.
I would email Grady Customer service with your hull#.
They'll have tons of info on that boat.
Probably have original owner's manuals for you.
They'll have tons of info on that boat.
Probably have original owner's manuals for you.
There is a drain tube that runs from the forward bilge area back under thte fuel tank to the rear bilge. From the rear bilge you'll see 2 tubes, one being this drain tube and the other being the drain from the fuel tank compartment. The fuel tank compartment drain is what you should have plugged all the time.
I always have a little water in my bilge, think it comes in thru the anchor locker. And float switches are good for a couple of years before you should plan to replace.
I always have a little water in my bilge, think it comes in thru the anchor locker. And float switches are good for a couple of years before you should plan to replace.
On the question of the auto bilge pump function; did you check to see if they were properly wired? The float switch positive and negative should run to the batteries and Perko power shutoff switch. The negative wire will typically be found connected to a negative post on a battery (or a negative buss). The positive wires from the float switches will be attached either to the positive post on the battery(s) or to the same post on the battery switch that the cable from the battery is connected to. What about fuses? Float switches go out occasionally. But it is less likely for both to be bad at once.
Workdog said:
I will check it out closer when I get back to the marina. It looked like the forward wiring was original still wrapped up to pump and switch. Couldnt see the back very well. But both look pretty crusty. They are on seperate fuses and switchs but I will have to try and see if there is an inline fuse somewhere for the automatic function. I think I understand what to look for now, thanks.
Ok there is a plug in the fuel tank compartment like the old t style that you put in and screw till it is tight. I have two reasons why I think i will leave it in unless you can give me a better reason to take it out. First and foremost if that plug had not been there then all the gas that is sitting in that compartment would now be in the gulf of mexico. Second reason is that if i seal the floor up good when i put it back together no saltwater has access to those compartments. Now the only reason i can think of to leave it out would be so i could open the access holes and spray fresh water in there to wash off the top of the tank. Ok now somebody convince me which is right. 8)
The fuses for the fwd and aft float switches should be bundled and tied up near the battery switch in the back somewhere. The wires are brown.Got Grady? said:
Got Grady? said:
Leave it in. Your thinking is correct. Here's what the Grady owner's manual says:
1. Key words are "remove plug and drain periodically".
Where did I read that above the previous thread?
2. You would be surprised how water can get into these compartments.
3. The purpose of the plug is not to seal in leaking gas from a tank on an outboard. You need to know the purpose of the plug to use it safely.
Late year models were voided of the plug, do you know why? Another question to have answered.
Where did I read that above the previous thread?
2. You would be surprised how water can get into these compartments.
3. The purpose of the plug is not to seal in leaking gas from a tank on an outboard. You need to know the purpose of the plug to use it safely.
Late year models were voided of the plug, do you know why? Another question to have answered.
Thats very interesting indeed. The drain plug is actually in the rear fuel tank compartment and still has the chain screwed to the side that attachs to the plug. This would indicate it is from the factory that way. Did they really expect people to cut the seal around the hatch remove the drain plug and then reseal the hatch on a regular basis? Makes no sense at all and why did they stop making them with the drain plug in later years? Now I am cornfused......
Ok I looked at the manual (couldnt quite read the picture from above)and it shows a drain plug in the bilge side of the rear compartment. Mine is in the fuel compartment side. I think a call to GW on this one is in order.
Got Grady? said:
My plug is just where the manual says it's supposed to be ... in the aft bilge compartment chained to the bulkhead, accessible through the deck plate in the transom splash well. Someone installed your plug on the wrong side of the bulkhead.
No more bizarre than the glass man who glassed over and sealed a drain hole between my two fuel tank compartments. Ran it that way for 20 years until I pulled the tanks. Here's a pic after I fixed it.
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