Blue Sea weather deck panel?

Lt.Mike

Lt.Mike

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Age
64
Location
Farmingdale NJ
Model
Overnighter
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea- ... 73_003_519
Has anyone used these breaker switch panels, how do you like them, and where did you mount them?
The switches in my Overnighters panel have seen better days and I'm considering these. I'm also wondering if the panel will support the load from a washdown pump I'm installing this winter.
Mike.
 
I haven't use those specific panels, but I'm very familiar with Blue Seas and they make excellent products. It looks like the breakers are rated at 15 amps, so just compare that to the washdown pump you want to use, but it should be fine for pretty much most pumps out there. You could always use a relay if needed, if for some reason you needed more amps.
 
Thanks Dennis, I am going to redo the weathered instrument panel which is a mish-mosh of gauges added to the panel when the second motor was installed. The switch labels are rough and the fuse holders are faded gray. The blue Sea switch panel with breakers instead of bus fuses would seem to be a good upgrade to modern standards. I just have to find a way to organize it all so that it doesn't amount to a cluttered mess. As with everything else I do, my goal is to give the appearance that it could have come from the factory that way.
I am also considering a secondary panel (?).
Mike.
 
Something to keep in mind, Mike, is that all of those breakers are rated at 15 amps. That's not necessarily a good thing. If you're trying to protect a 3 amp device, for example, you are over protecting it and the chances of a fire are increased. The main purpose of a breaker/fuse is to protect the wiring, not the device. In this case, the wiring becomes the weakest link and can fail before the breaker stops the juice flowing to it.

In essence, what can happen is that you may end up putting (whether now, or a future owner) too much of a load -- device(s) -- on a circuit that doesn't have the wire size to support it. The wire would give up the ghost before the breaker pops.
 
DennisG01 said:
Something to keep in mind, Mike, is that all of those breakers are rated at 15 amps. That's not necessarily a good thing. If you're trying to protect a 3 amp device, for example, you are over protecting it and the chances of a fire are increased. The main purpose of a breaker/fuse is to protect the wiring, not the device. In this case, the wiring becomes the weakest link and can fail before the breaker stops the juice flowing to it.

In essence, what can happen is that you may end up putting (whether now, or a future owner) too much of a load -- device(s) -- on a circuit that doesn't have the wire size to support it. The wire would give up the ghost before the breaker pops.
Click to expand...
:| You make a solid point an your input is appreciated. Thank you. I've been thinking of getting an 8 bank breaker panel and a second panel holding 4, or perhaps 6/6. (I know I now need 10 switches and I figure 2 more will cover whatever may come up)
I'm going to have to see what circuit needs 15 amps and what needs less. I could use the breaker panel for what needs 15 and the non-fused weather deck panel on the side for the others with a separate fuse block maybe mounted in the cabin.
Right now the boat went back into my buddies pole barn after the water test Friday to spend the winter safe and dry. I throw him the equivalent in cash that it would cost me to shrink wrap the boat as a thank you though he doesn't ask. He's a good friend and I help him when I can. Being inside and not under a tarp also gives me the luxury getting this stuff done while we're in the off season.
Mike.
 
"Inside with easy access"... OK, I no longer like you! :mrgreen:

But, yeah, that certainly makes things nice! Another thing you can check into is simply replacing the breakers with the appropriate amperage size. They're usually not all that expensive and if you do that, it might help you keep things looking cleaner as you could use just (1) 10-switch panel.

You've probably thought of this, but a sheet of 1/8" aluminum that you paint could make a nice, new panel. Pretty cheap, too. Companies like Blue Seas also have nice, stick-on "label packs" that you can use.
 
Hi Dennis, I did save the old fuel tank to possibly use the sheet aluminum for a use like this but I'm following others here and am going with black Starboard. I picked up a sheet measuring 1/4" X 12" X 27" from EBay for $17 shipped. That gives enough for a second panel if I bugger up the first or for possible use elsewhere. I'll look into the breaker swap idea for sure. If I used a 10 switch unit it would have to be mounted vertically as the dash panel is 9" wide and the 8 switch weatherdeck panel is 8" wide.
The dash has 1 1/4" space between it and the plexi cover. I went to West Marine and verified the dimensions and the WD panel requires 1" clearance so it will fit. :)
I just have to make a mockup panel out of cardboard to lay five 2" gauges and 1- 3" tach circles on to see how I want to lay it all out.
I also have a Grady dash emblem to use if it isn't too much of a clutter.
Digging back into older posts I found this one by "jrgrady". He used the same emblem I had picked up and made this dash here.
Though I don't think its made from starboard, I like how its all laid out and I can only hope mine comes out as nice. Great job JR! (I hi-jacked his pic)

013.jpg


On the storage, my buddy offered so I'd be an idiot not to take him up on it. We have been there for each other for years helping each other when need came though I owe him for sure on this one.
One problem is we don't live next door to each other, I have a 45 minute drive to get to the boat. Guess I'll have to tough it out. :lol:
Here she sits...a little tight but I'll manage. (sorry couldn't help it :wink: )
Mike.

DSCN7734_zpsm9ud4b1t.jpg


PS - looking again at JR's pic above it reminded me of how weathered/ corroded my yellow capacity plate is?
Is there anyone out there that reproduces the factory plate. Mine looks like Cr*p and it bothers me. The little Overnighter dash emblem doesn't look to hot either but I have ideas for that.
 
Boy, he even keeps that garage nice and clean for you, Mike!

A couple other thoughts come to mind - and one isn't really any better than the other... nor any better than anything you're already thinking of. Just different...

-- The clear, plastic shield... I've often wondered how necessary that is. If the switches and gauges are waterproof (or at least water resistant, which they are), why bother, you know? I'm thinking about removing mine. It would make using the switches easier.

-- You could always put one or two of your gauges in the upper helm

-- You should be able to get a new capacity plate from Grady. You can move that plate somewhere else - it doesn't have to be where it is now. For example, put in on the vertical section of fiberglass that is UNDER the helm. If you do that, would you have enough room to mount the switches in it's place?

-- Starboard is nice and easy to work with. A downside to starboard is that it's very hard to get any stickers to stick to it (for a long time, anyways). That may not be a problem with the way you're currently planing on doing things, though.
 
Ya Dennis I was looking at those two areas for the switches as well, above the capacity plate and above the throttle. I may do just that and leave the dash with just gauges.
Don't the newer Gradys have them on the side panel to the right of the operator?
I've had some serious spray come over on the rough days so for me the plexi shield serves a purpose.
I sent off an email to Grady earlier today and got a prompt response.... No the little overnighter 20 dash emblem/plaque is no longer available and the capacity plate has to be purchased directly from NMMA. They gave contact info and I'll let you know how that goes.
As for the sticker I can through bolt a large flat stainless fender washer to the panel and adhere the emblem to that. :wink: ...always a way.
Oh and yes the garage is clean...Felix Unger clean! I mean not a spot and I have to watch what I track in and then give it the white glove treatment. :lol: For real!
Mike.
 
Yup, there's almost always more than one way to skin a cat!

I know I've ordered them through Sea Ray, but either way works. If I remember correctly, they were about $10. I'm not sure where the newer Grady's put them. But there's no specific place they have to go. They just have to be relatively visible somewhere in the neighborhood of the helm. Top, bottom, left, right - doesn't matter.

Felix Unger... I think you mean Oscar Madison... If it looked like Felix owned it, you wouldn't be posting a picture!!! :mrgreen:
 
The emblem is for a newer Gardy so it never came on my year. It was available and just makes the finishing touch for a replacement dash giving it that factory made look.
As true with a lot of the older muscle cars some decal and emblem placement was for a specific spot but still at the discretion of the assembly line worker. I've noticed the small rectangular GW Overnighter 20 plaque anywhere from the left to the center of the dash on other Overnighters from my year.
I do wish I could still get that plaque but I've got an idea on how to restore it. I'll document it and if it comes out right I'll post it under the how to section of the forum.
 
Yeah, I've seen them all over the place on the new boats that are sold where I work part time. Imagine a "bowrider" style boat... I've seen them On the dash, To the right of the dash, even in the "walkthrough" to the bow.

I've heard that some people where able to get a reproduction at a vinyl graphics shop. But I'm really surprised that Grady can't get it for you. We've gotten them multiple times from Sea Ray and even from the manufacturer of the pontoon line that we carry and it's never been a problem. Hopefully NMMA can get it for you, if you can't figure out another way, that is.
 
Ok, the dust has settled on the capacity plate inquiry, can't get one, at least for the older boats.
I'll put it all down in the tips forum. as what I found out is of some use.
Mike.
 
Mike, something else to ponder...

According to the USCG, only boats UNDER 20' in length are required to have a capacity plate.... You're 4" over, right?

Now, what I'm not sure of is if whether the manufacturer originally supplied one if you have to have one, regardless of length. I've never come across anything stating that - but I've never really researched it, either.
 
DennisG01 said:
Mike, something else to ponder...

According to the USCG, only boats UNDER 20' in length are required to have a capacity plate.... You're 4" over, right?

Now, what I'm not sure of is if whether the manufacturer originally supplied one if you have to have one, regardless of length. I've never come across anything stating that - but I've never really researched it, either.
Click to expand...
It may not be required but every boat I've ever had has had one.
My 12' lockley Seawitch sailboat and 19' Bayliner had one, my Grumman canoes, and my 15' Sylvan Alaskan tin boat have one.
The only things that don't are my kayaks. (I live along the river so I've got a bunch, 6 kayaks, 2 canoes.)
My only interest in the plate is to clean up any rough spots that are around the helm and in my face.
That plate looks like my rusty old pickup parked in a Mercedes car dealership. :wink:
I gotta clean that loose end up.
 
Yup - just wanted to throw that out there to give you another option. Just because a manufacturer puts it on there, doesn't mean it necessarily HAS to be there. The reason it's on there (on larger boats) is because the manufacturer needs it to get their NMMA certification. And, technically speaking, pontoon boats (regardless of size) do not need one at all! The rule states that "single hull" boats under 20' need one.
 
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