What is the best Bottom Paint for the Grady's inside Long Island Sound? Any recommendations? Thanks.
Bottom Paint
- Thread starter Grady White Guy
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To an extent that depends on a few things. First of all, if the hull is already painted, you need to pick a product that is compatible. f you know the brand of the old paint, all the better.
You need to know the type of existing paint, hard or ablative. In general, many ablatives can be painted over hard coats but painting new hard coat over ablative can be a problem. In some cases, sanding and priming are necessary
The general use of the boat can help pick an appropriate coating. Boats that sit at the slip for long periods need bottom paints that works while sitting at rest.
I know it sounds complicated and it can be at first. Your best bet is to go to the different bottom paint sites and read the info on the products.
Some bottom paints require that the hull be splashed within a certain time period or else the paint will harden over and not work as needed. Some brands don't have time limits like that (hydrocoat is one)
All that aside, I use ablative paint and have switched from Interlux line to the Pettit line I did that a few years back mainly because Pettit Hydrocoat is water based and cleanup of the tools and you body is so much easier. In addition, it doesn't have a strong an odor as the non water based paints.
I didn't have any issues with Interlux Micron Extra or CSC in the past. I actually feel that it goes on easier and is less likely to be applied incorrectly. Pettit has to go on in a thinner coat and it never feels like it is covering adequately but it does work and holds up very well for me. My boats can sit at the dock for extended periods, maybe 5-6 weeks at a time and I have had no barnacle buildup on the hulls. I can get two seasons out of a paint job with just waterline and spot repaints. A full job for me is two coats on the hull with three on the waterline. Second season is usually spot painting as needed and one coat on the hull after is has been cleaned up with a scotchbrite abrasive pad to remove dried up slime residue.
One more maybe issue. These paints mentioned are copper based products. Some folks and/or municipalities may have environmental concerns or regulations regarding copper leaching into the waters. Many of the vendors now have non copper based products. I can't say how well they work or last but I can say that in general, right now they are more expensive.
You need to know the type of existing paint, hard or ablative. In general, many ablatives can be painted over hard coats but painting new hard coat over ablative can be a problem. In some cases, sanding and priming are necessary
The general use of the boat can help pick an appropriate coating. Boats that sit at the slip for long periods need bottom paints that works while sitting at rest.
I know it sounds complicated and it can be at first. Your best bet is to go to the different bottom paint sites and read the info on the products.
Some bottom paints require that the hull be splashed within a certain time period or else the paint will harden over and not work as needed. Some brands don't have time limits like that (hydrocoat is one)
All that aside, I use ablative paint and have switched from Interlux line to the Pettit line I did that a few years back mainly because Pettit Hydrocoat is water based and cleanup of the tools and you body is so much easier. In addition, it doesn't have a strong an odor as the non water based paints.
I didn't have any issues with Interlux Micron Extra or CSC in the past. I actually feel that it goes on easier and is less likely to be applied incorrectly. Pettit has to go on in a thinner coat and it never feels like it is covering adequately but it does work and holds up very well for me. My boats can sit at the dock for extended periods, maybe 5-6 weeks at a time and I have had no barnacle buildup on the hulls. I can get two seasons out of a paint job with just waterline and spot repaints. A full job for me is two coats on the hull with three on the waterline. Second season is usually spot painting as needed and one coat on the hull after is has been cleaned up with a scotchbrite abrasive pad to remove dried up slime residue.
One more maybe issue. These paints mentioned are copper based products. Some folks and/or municipalities may have environmental concerns or regulations regarding copper leaching into the waters. Many of the vendors now have non copper based products. I can't say how well they work or last but I can say that in general, right now they are more expensive.
ScottyCee
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I found this article useful:
www.practical-sailor.com
Favorite Bottom Paints by Region - Practical Sailor
Since 1974, Practical Sailor’s independent testing has taken the guesswork out of boat and gear buying.
www.practical-sailor.com
ScottyCee
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Where I live you're supposed to use ablative (very active barnacle growth), and in general I have done so and re-coated every year - there were usually bald spots. When we bought the 226 it looked so bad that I decided to pay a boat yard to sand it down and refinish. I told them how I use it, and they recommended Petit Trinidad - a hard paint. Well, they did a great job, and for the first time it lasted more than one year - I did some touch up and it would have been fine for a third, but I sold it. I have since purchased Trinidad SR for the 272, and since the hull is so nice I will do it myself.
Scratch it up with #80, apply 2 part epoxy primer, paint hull. I'm figuring I'll finish it up in an hour or two. Maybe 3 tops.
Scratch it up with #80, apply 2 part epoxy primer, paint hull. I'm figuring I'll finish it up in an hour or two. Maybe 3 tops.
Make sure you read and follow the instructions for the primer. Times between coats, number of coats and time window to apply anti-fouling paint have to be followed.
Last time I did an epoxy primer and anti fouling paint, it took 2 days. I uses Interprotect 2000 in 4 coats as directed where the time between coats depended on the ambient temps. It was a pain but the epoxy primer has held up very well.
Last time I did an epoxy primer and anti fouling paint, it took 2 days. I uses Interprotect 2000 in 4 coats as directed where the time between coats depended on the ambient temps. It was a pain but the epoxy primer has held up very well.
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I use the West Marine CPP Ablative (Its made by Pettit) Buy it on sale!
It was $99 a couple weeks ago now its $130. At some point SOON they will have a buy one get one on it. You have to check every week early in the season for their sales.
The CPP has worked pretty good for me and I'm right inside an ocean inlet in NJ. I've been using it for 20 years.
I do get a few tiny hangers-on by the end of the season.
They have another version PCA with more copper. twice the price. I haven't tried it. Might try it next season and see if its worth it.
I recommend ablative because you are not going to be in the water all year in Long Island. It doesn't have to be launched right away. You can power wash and paint in fall or wait til spring.
Hard Paints are better in Florida where you are in the water all year and you can get it scrubbed.
It was $99 a couple weeks ago now its $130. At some point SOON they will have a buy one get one on it. You have to check every week early in the season for their sales.
The CPP has worked pretty good for me and I'm right inside an ocean inlet in NJ. I've been using it for 20 years.
I do get a few tiny hangers-on by the end of the season.
They have another version PCA with more copper. twice the price. I haven't tried it. Might try it next season and see if its worth it.
I recommend ablative because you are not going to be in the water all year in Long Island. It doesn't have to be launched right away. You can power wash and paint in fall or wait til spring.
Hard Paints are better in Florida where you are in the water all year and you can get it scrubbed.
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Thanks so much for your in depth reply, 'Seasick' I really appreciate it. Which of the Pettit Hydrocoat paints do you use, Regular, SR or ECO? Thanks.
I use the regular Hydrocoat. As I mentioned, I have had no barnacles on the painted hull and have used the stuff for three seasons so far..
For Hydrocoat, Pettit recommends applying in thin coats using a short nap roller, preferable a 3/16 in nap. Those can be a bit hard to find and a 3/8 can be used but avoid heavy coats. You can use a chip brush for cutting in. The Hydrocoat also needs to be thoroughly mixed. A paddle with an electric drill is best. Pettit recommends pouring 1/2 of the paint into a second can and then stirring the original can. Then add back the other half and stir stir stir. It is good practice to re-stir every now and then. The paint is kind of thin and the anti-fouling compounds settle to the bottom. The paint dries fairly quickly but read the directions for the re-coat time and follow those directions. If you don't wait long enough, the new coat can dissolve and left the previous coat.
For Hydrocoat, Pettit recommends applying in thin coats using a short nap roller, preferable a 3/16 in nap. Those can be a bit hard to find and a 3/8 can be used but avoid heavy coats. You can use a chip brush for cutting in. The Hydrocoat also needs to be thoroughly mixed. A paddle with an electric drill is best. Pettit recommends pouring 1/2 of the paint into a second can and then stirring the original can. Then add back the other half and stir stir stir. It is good practice to re-stir every now and then. The paint is kind of thin and the anti-fouling compounds settle to the bottom. The paint dries fairly quickly but read the directions for the re-coat time and follow those directions. If you don't wait long enough, the new coat can dissolve and left the previous coat.
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Recoil Rob
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Well, this is timely. I just came here to ask about the very same thing. And I'm on LI Sound, where are you Grady White Guy?
I finally got my 2004 180 Sportsman registered and since I won't be going out for work much (CV) I have am going to have plenty of time to get it ready.
The previous owner had it on a trailer so I'll be painting the bottom for the first time. I used Hydrocoat on my last boat, went on very easy, but took a while to smooth out in the water.
I was thinking I'll do 2 PROTECT barrier coats and then 2 HYDROCOAT.
Will be calling Jamestown for some advice but about how much Hydrocoat will I need for 2 coats on a 180 Sportsman? Coverage is suppose to be 500sq.ft/gallon so am I right 1 gallon should do 2 coats?
I finally got my 2004 180 Sportsman registered and since I won't be going out for work much (CV) I have am going to have plenty of time to get it ready.
The previous owner had it on a trailer so I'll be painting the bottom for the first time. I used Hydrocoat on my last boat, went on very easy, but took a while to smooth out in the water.
I was thinking I'll do 2 PROTECT barrier coats and then 2 HYDROCOAT.
Will be calling Jamestown for some advice but about how much Hydrocoat will I need for 2 coats on a 180 Sportsman? Coverage is suppose to be 500sq.ft/gallon so am I right 1 gallon should do 2 coats?
On my 208 which has more area to paint than the 180 hull, I usually get two coats on everything and a third coat on the water line with about a quart left over from a gallon can.
As to preparation, in your case it is critical to remove any wax and/or release agent that might be on the hull before any paint. Although the battier coat is nice, it may not be needed.
You have to follow the guidelines from Pettit for prep and barrier cot if you go that route. Otherwise, you will be wasting your time and money. There are a few choices for prep, some easier than others.
As to preparation, in your case it is critical to remove any wax and/or release agent that might be on the hull before any paint. Although the battier coat is nice, it may not be needed.
You have to follow the guidelines from Pettit for prep and barrier cot if you go that route. Otherwise, you will be wasting your time and money. There are a few choices for prep, some easier than others.
I have a Freedom 225 moored at Greenwich Cove in the Summer. Right now it’s on stands in Greenwich Point Park.
As I mentioned, the newer cans of Hydrocoat have a label on the lid that says to use a short nap roller , 3/16 inch in order to reduce the possibility of applying too thick a coat. I suspect that a thick coat might add to the roughness and as some reported, pealing of the paint. Also you need to follow the guidelines for recoats. If you wait too long, scuffing or light sanding is needed before applying the next coat . If you don't the paint may not adhere correctly
Recoil Rob
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When you say "Also you need to follow the guidelines for recoats. If you wait too long, scuffing or light sanding is needed before applying the next coat . If you don't the paint may not adhere correctly" do you mean waiting a couple of seasons to recoat or putting a second coat on top of the first when initially using Hydrocoat?
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I was referring to recoat times during the initial painting.
For future season painting or touch up, you need to clean the painted hull ( I powerwash) and most likely scuff the paint with a scotchbrite pad. The scuffing or sanding is needed not so much to make the old surface rough to accept new paint but rather to remove any dried scum or slime which there almost always is.